Guys, I'm in a serious state of hurt. Replaced the number one delivery valve crush washer last night at aroud 11 PM and really- I mean REALLY - f..ked up. I put the delivery valve and holder in upside down.

I know I deserve every admonition and I-told-you-so, but right now I need some help. I cranked it a lot last night before I gave up, and then around 2AM while trying to go to sleep, I realized what I did wrong. I put everything back the way it should be, with a new crush washer, and it still wouldn't start. Cracked the injection lines - no fuel.

I thought I must have destroyed the IP, but the problem may be before the fuel even gets to the IP. I loosened the line from the lift pump to the big (secondary?) fuel filter, and when using the hand pump, fuel comes flying out. When cranking the engine - no fuel at all, so it sounds like I ruined the lift pump (at least). I'm probably going to take the lift pump off in a few minutes, but would really appreciate some advice.

I think I finally did it this time.

I don't believe that you've provided the complete story, and, therefore, it won't be possible to help you.

Here is why:

If you screwed up #1, the engine would start and run on the other four........it would just run badly.

The failure to start has nothing to do with #1, so, the need for more information is mandatory.

It takes around 12 seconds for fuel too get up to the injectors, which does seem like an eternity sometimes, are you sure you cranked it long enough? Lift pumps usually last the life of the car then some.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Brian,

I hope you're right. Here's everything else I did last night. It ran fine beforehand.

I changed the secondary fuel filter.

I pulled all of the injectors and cleaned the nozzles.

And here's what I think you're driving at:

I did a compression check on cylinder number one to confirm the results I got a couple of weeks ago. It was still low, so I poured some oil (about a quarter ounce) into the injector hole to see if the compression improved. I also sprayed some brake cleaner into the prechambers to clean them out. I must have overdone it, and didn't wait long enough for it to evaporate. I suspect that there must have been fluid in the cylinders when I tried to crank it, and that I may have blown out the diaphram in the lift pump.

I pulled the lift pump, but don't know where the diaphram is. I need to take a step back before I make it worse.

I know I messed up, and am, to be perfectly honest, embarassed. I can understand people saying to themselves, "The idiot did it to himself, and now he has to suffer the consequences." I can only ask for mercy, and assure you and everyone else I learned my lesson -which I'm afraid will be an expensive one. Hopefully, the next guy can learn from my mistakes.

Thanks

Edit: I guess there's no diaphram. I'm just clueless.

There's no diaphram in the lift pump, it's a piston. If you remove the 30mm (maybe 32?) nut on the front of pump you will see the spring and piston behind it. If you are going to take it apart be careful because that spring is under some pressure. I seriously doubt you broke the lift pump by spraying stuff in your cylinders and that there is probably no reason to take it apart.

Try putting it all back together and pump the primer until you hear the relief valve operating and fuel is flowing through the return line. If your system has an empty secondary filter or lines full of air this may be 50 or more strokes on the primer. Then crack all the injector lines and crank the engine until you see fuel coming out the lines. Air in the injection system can make it seem like the whole thing just died but just takes some purging.

Quick test is disconnect cigar return line and let it discharge into a 2 litter coke bottle to watch amount of fuel returning while cranking....
If fuel is flowing then lift pump is pumping....

Like the previous post said...there is no diaphragm....just an O-ring around the piston push rod....between the piston and roller assy...

__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Did you pre-fill the canister fuel filter before replacing it?

If not, remove it and do so, and then start priming it again.

__________________
Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

While waiting for the starter to cool off, here's an update:

Fuel comes out ot the cigar hose when using the hand pump, but not while cranking. This is similar to what lead me to believe it was the lift pump initially.

Keep cranking?

there was just a thread about this within the last month. The IP timing gear bolt was stripped, and bare.

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there ya go

300SD woes Injection Pump Timing device

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What are the odds of two of these failures occurring so close together on the forum? I believe in both instances the owners had been working on the IP prior to failure. Is there a connection?

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

you might be on to something....

although the other Poster had a vacpump failure that destroyed his bolt.

why didnt the keys fail on his first?

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Well, after reading the threads, I think my upside down delivery valve probably did the trick, but I'm not sure.

Here's where I'm at:

1 Obviously, I don't know what I'm doing. I was proud of myself when I did my first valve adjustment, so that along with the screwup mentioned above, should give you some idea of my level of expertise, or lack thereof.

2 Unfortunately, I'm also broke, as a result of another bonehead manoeuvre that I wont bore you with.

3 This is my only car. I have a scooter that's good for going to McDonald's down the street, but I can't carry groceries or drive at night, so getting to work and back is going to be difficult. I need to get this fixed, and time is a luxury I don't have.

So, I'm left with two unappealing choices: Perform a job that I probably can't do, without having a method to pick up parts; or pay somebody to do the job using money I don't have. Ugh.

As a guesstimate, how much should I expect the local indy to charge for a job like this, going from a best-case scenario of it being broken woodruff keys; to a worst-case of who knows what?

Damn.........

Are you certain the cam is not turning....?...The fuel pump lobe is the narrrow one between two of the wider plunger roller lobes.....

If you are sure and broke.... you have nothing to lose by digging further.....pull the vac pump 6-(5mm) allen hex bolts..,see what is there....some models have a reverse thread bolt holding on the timing device...leave that for now if all looks ok....

Pull #1 element again and inspect for damage....Post back along the way like you have been doing and you should find plenty of help here....

I say to do the above if you are broke and eventually want to repair this vehicle for the least amount of $$$$

It will help if you follow the forum members advice without jumping ahead which is always tempting.....but this area should be approached step by step.....
You could be lucky and just have some minor parts needed or you may need another IP and or timing device + chain and other parts....
no way to know until you start digging......no easy quick solution at this point unless I have missed something....
You seem to have the willingness and mechanical apptitude to do this ...just need to approach it in small steps.....no rush now.....

__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Started to take the vacuum pump off, and saw a large crack in the housing. Took it off all the way, and there was a half a bolt and large washer sitting inside. There was also pretty big gash on the inside of the housing, but no shrapnel. Other than half a bolt in the center, the timing device didn't show any damage that I could see. I assume I need to get the remainder of the bolt out next, but I'll await some feedback before I proceed. Thanks.

Edit: I didn't really notice it on the car, but looking at the pics, I see RUST on the timing device! That can't be good. It doesn't have oil in the coolant, and the coolant doesn't disappear, but water must have gotten in there somehow. I noticed there's no gasket for the vacuum pump, and I do have a habit of hosing off my engine to clean it. Hopefully that's where it came from.

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