you lucky dog, i always wanted a 190D 2.5 Turbo, but its hard to find one , well enjoy the GOOD MPG!!!

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Current Garage
2008 Mercedes GL320 CDI 188k mi Repair/Work in progress
1994 S350 160k mi Garage Queen & prepping for repairs
2005 E320 CDI 203k mi Healthy & Daily Driver
1994 S350 357k mi Retried as parts car
1984 300TD 214k mi Blown OM617 Poss OM603 Swap??

Sold
1987 300SDL 200K+
1994 S320 181K mi
2008 E320 Bluetec 127k mi
1999 S420 130K mi
1980 240D 360k mi
15+ Others that has come, stay and gone

GONE, BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
1995 E320 SE 220k mi
1984 300SD 350k mi

thanks for the advice, i read up on the stop lever leaking and after looking at my IP i can see that mine is leaking. Also the others mentioned that you have a surging at idle, which i also have. this should be a fun fix, thanks for pointing me in the right directions.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

You definitely need to sort out your vacuum issues. They are probably causing your tranny and boost problems. The vacuum amplifier (flying saucer) needs to be hooked up and working properly to shift right.

You can search ebay for a print copy of the factory service manual. They are pricey, but worth it. The manuals are also available on CD-ROM, but not as handy to use.

To answer your question about swapping in a 5-speed - it is definitely possible. I have done it to 2 different 190D 2.5 T's, and both turned out very nice. You just need the right factory parts to have the job turn out perfect.

SteveM.

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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

So i should be keeping my eyes open for a 5 speed parts car, and get it.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

My 2 cents - if you feel like you want a 5-speed car, go for it.

There are plenty of 2.3L 5-speeds that could serve as donor cars for a 5-speed transplant. I have a lot more faith in my current 2.5Turbo 5-speed's tranny than I would in an automatic. The automatic trannies behind the 2.5Turbo engine do not have an especially good reputation for longevity.

If you decide to do the swap, make sure that you get absolutely everything you will need from the donor car. If the donor is a gasser, you will also need a different flywheel (from a diesel).

However, you still need to get your vacuum issues sorted out, whether it's an auto trans or a manual 5-speed.

SteveM.

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'93 190E/D 2.5 Turbodiesel 5-speed (daily driver)
'87 190D 2.5 Turbo rustbucket - parts car
'84 Dodge Rampage diesel - Land Speed Record Holder
'13 Ram 2500 Diesel
'05 Toyota 4Runner

Arctic, i think i can help with two of your concerns first being the rubber elbow on the vcv can be had at most local auto parts stores in the vac fittings section i discussed it in this thread and showed pictures Vac line and rubber 90 deg. fitting off of Vac Control Valve---how critical is it?
Post # 7 (I know our engines are not the same but from your pics very similar)...
On the mushy pedal you commented on feeling like it already half way pressed, might just need to adjust out the slack in the accel cable i posted a pic of what it looks like under the hood on my om603 in this thread
Bowden cable adjustment nut: is this the right one?
post#9...That should help your sluggish take offs with more throttle before hitting downshift switch and also pull the bowden cable enough to trigger you 1st gear take off from a stop...(as you can see from the zip tie in my pic i had to do this for the same reason and i am pleased that it was as simple as that)
P.S With more power from above you are likely to have very firm shifts untill vacuum lines are resolved...

Arlo

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W211 E550
HVAC/R Certified Technician

I am looking to buy brakes for the 190D and i am not sure which ones i need.

Brake Pad Set; Rear With Sensor Slot; OE Supplier Compound
For models with ASR or ETS, which require rear pad sensor. 1 set per car.

or

Brake Pad Set; Rear without Sensor Slot; OE Compound
The Mintex brand alternate has a sensor slot that is not required on these models but the pads are identical in all other fit and function. 1 set per car.

With or Without. How do these cars know when the brake pad is almost gone? Is the sensor just like the sensor for a W123? my brake pad light is going off when braking, so i know it is sensing something.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

On my 190D, the front pads have sensors and the rear pads do not.

I think that as the pads wear past a certain level, the sensor makes contact with the brake disc which turns on the warning light.

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1989 250TD Wagon 5-speed, 160,000mi ::: Dark gray metallic / black cloth
1984 190D-2.2 5-speed, 287,000mi ::: Silver-blue metallic / black MB-tex ::: SOLD

Ya, that is what i am used to with my W123's, but i just did not this being described when looking for the right brake pads. i will just have to see, does anyone know if they are the same sensor cable?

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

That 'fuel' filter is really for air; mine is exactly the same and the MB service guy says it is normal. I will look in my car to see where the brown hose goes.

Congratulations on your purchase, it is a nice looking car. You should be able to iron out the little problems with info from this forum.

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'98 E300 DT
'87 190D 2.5 turbo RIP
'92 S500 Sold
'03 3.2TL-S A-Spec

The brown line goes directly to the EGR, which i will be removing when Brian gets another round or EGR removal kits going. but what is the round thing in the background? i don't what does it affect and where should i be connecting it currently.

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Grey '91 350SDL 214k Dad's car
Beige '81 240D 4 Speed 254k SOLD
Blue '82 300D 225k SOLD
White '95 E300D 46k SOLD
Blue '87 190D 2.5 Turbo 315k SOLD
Brown '80 240D 4 Speed 716k SOLD
Beige '80 300D N/A 119k SOLD
Blue '85 300D Model 186k T-Boned

The turbo lag is your alda assuming 2.5T's had them. Either a switchover valve, clogged line or misadjusted alda. i had the SAME EXACT lag problem with my 300D. It would be a snail until 20mph then it would pull.



You need to simplify the vac system like many of us do. Rip out everything and start new. You need vac to the throttle transmission vac modulator (and connect that to the transmission). Then run a seperate vacuum line to your in-cabin vacuum lines, keeping them on a seperate vac feed than the transmission. Disregard all other vacuum parts. BUT i could be wrong. I'm assuming the basics of the cars vacuum are like a 123 or 126.

Then using the modulator adjust your shifting till its perfect.

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

Looks like the EGR vac amp. You can remove it before you remove the EGR valve. Make sure to plug the supply line where it comes off the engine vacuum pump.

turbobenz is more able than I am (no mean feat to be more able than I am ) if he removed the transmission vac amp and has tolerable shifts. I futzed with the VCV and bowden cable for days and couldn't get acceptable low throttle shifts. I didn't try a transmission modulator off an MB model with no transmission vac amp. That might be the difference. gsxr thinks the valve body is programmed differently as well.

The attached vacuum diagrams might help.

Sixto
87 300D

Attached Thumbnails

   

Bypassing all the emission controls has worked out great for me. I don't know if this is true but I think those parts are there to really fine to the car AND to direct the proper amounts of vacuum to different places at different times when different things are happening. For example if the EGR valve wants to open while the turbo waste gate is being actuated and the transmission is shifting from 3rd to 4th. I have near perfect shifting through all my gears except when cold which is a bummer. When cold the car shifts pretty rough into second and I think that MB may have had a system for that.

Im guessing cars that use the vacumm amplifer (like my 85, which has a completely stock vacuum system) use it to shift absolutely perfect and possibly to overcome the loss of vac due to added components. This makes sense because nothing changed between 84 and 85, except that in 85 they started adding the vac amp along with tons of emissions components.

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1981 300SD 512k OM603

Didn't see that. Maybe, Ive never touched the vac on my 85. My 85 does have a distinctively different way of shifting. It seems to rev it up, open up the clutches and puts it back in gear. My 84 trans however does it in a more constant motion

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1981 300SD 512k OM603