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  #1  
Old 02-03-2009, 06:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asnowsquall View Post
Also, Is there a way to make a mechanical shutoff. My bus has a mechanical Bosch injector and to shut it down you pull on a knob in the dash which works great. I wouldn't mind having something like that in a truck like this.
X2 on the gorilla knob. The PO of my TD did the same thing,
drilling a hole through the firewall on the driverside. She then mounted
the knob on the trans hump right by the right knee. Cable runs through
the firewall, all the way up to the radiator, in a big loop, coming back
around over the fenderwell on the passenger side, through the
air cleaner(please, somebody take that damn drill away) to the mechanical
shut off.

Now I have to ask you, Does this sound like something you wanna do????
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  #2  
Old 02-02-2009, 09:56 PM
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Cavemen are cool.
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  #3  
Old 02-03-2009, 01:54 AM
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run a tube from the IP into the cabin and suck to shut it off.
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  #4  
Old 02-03-2009, 02:53 AM
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Okay, I just spent a couple of minutes thinking about this, and I think I have it figured out. A simple relay, a little wiring, and a vacuum solenoid will do the trick.

The vacuum solenoid will take the place of the original vacuum switch. The solenoid will be operated by a relay that is triggered only when the ignition switch is in the run and start positions.

As for a source for vacuum solenoids... Well, just about every EGR system uses one, not to mention EVAP systems, but i think those are mostly pulse controlled, which will take more complicated control system. Surely a sort of universal vacuum solenoid exists, because automation systems use the hell out of the things, but that approach might get expensive, and I don't know if any of them can tolerate being energized continuously.

I can try to iron out some more details if you want, or you can just run with this idea on your own.
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'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #5  
Old 02-03-2009, 04:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KAdams4458 View Post
Okay, I just spent a couple of minutes thinking about this, and I think I have it figured out. A simple relay, a little wiring, and a vacuum solenoid will do the trick.

The vacuum solenoid will take the place of the original vacuum switch. The solenoid will be operated by a relay that is triggered only when the ignition switch is in the run and start positions.

As for a source for vacuum solenoids... Well, just about every EGR system uses one, not to mention EVAP systems, but i think those are mostly pulse controlled, which will take more complicated control system. Surely a sort of universal vacuum solenoid exists, because automation systems use the hell out of the things, but that approach might get expensive, and I don't know if any of them can tolerate being energized continuously.

I can try to iron out some more details if you want, or you can just run with this idea on your own.

wow thats a good idea!!!! one that is normally flow through, then closed when powered. i'm going to have to try this on my truck once i install my 617 into it
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Diesel all the way!!!
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  #6  
Old 02-03-2009, 12:25 PM
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Mmm! Diesel!
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dealwithit View Post
wow thats a good idea!!!! one that is normally flow through, then closed when powered. i'm going to have to try this on my truck once i install my 617 into it
I have my moments.


Cell, a mechanical shut off that could somehow manipulate the shut-off lever has appeal, too. It's hard for me to envision the linkages and how something could be made to work, as I don't own a turbo OM617. Perhaps I could find some pictures on the forum that would help me come up with an idea.

The one problem I have with a mechanical shut-off mechanism is the boogering that it might do to the dash. I'm not familiar with your truck, but does it by any chance have a spot for a mechanical choke cable, or some place on the dash where you might be able to mount a little shove-tug knob like a choke cable? I think everything was auto-choke by the time your truck was built, but I figured it was question worth asking.
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'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread


Last edited by KAdams4458; 02-03-2009 at 12:33 PM.
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  #7  
Old 02-03-2009, 03:50 PM
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A wiring guru

Quote:
Originally Posted by KAdams4458 View Post
Okay, I just spent a couple of minutes thinking about this, and I think I have it figured out. A simple relay, a little wiring, and a vacuum solenoid will do the trick.

The vacuum solenoid will take the place of the original vacuum switch. The solenoid will be operated by a relay that is triggered only when the ignition switch is in the run and start positions.

As for a source for vacuum solenoids... Well, just about every EGR system uses one, not to mention EVAP systems, but i think those are mostly pulse controlled, which will take more complicated control system. Surely a sort of universal vacuum solenoid exists, because automation systems use the hell out of the things, but that approach might get expensive, and I don't know if any of them can tolerate being energized continuously.


I can try to iron out some more details if you want, or you can just run with this idea on your own.
Alright we got a wiring guru-- maybe we should start a wire twistin hippie thread like--So whats up with my no-happenin inner drivin lights on my euros?? Also, how would I rig a actuator for my euro w123 wipers, I got the complete harness with relay, but the electric fan and washer pump are also in the same---ok , I want the wipers to work whenever the washer pump is working,------- sorry ,forgive me for hijacking the merciolet.---------I'm leaning tward a couple of rubber caps on the shutoff ports and gittin me a gawdang Go rolla knob!
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  #8  
Old 02-03-2009, 04:50 PM
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And another thing

Ok, what originally got me on this Benz kick was these diesel engines are the most common, easily obtained of all-not to mention smoothness or the reputation- compared to a cummins4bt,perkins etc -bulletproof that I have heard of ever since I was a kid in grade school and the doctors wife from around the block who drove us home from school in the seventies in that fancy orange diesel sedan . Now, anyone wit a few screws loose like every one diggin this merciolet project, we all have the same dilemas, a REAL caveman project has a Stickshift, 4X4 labs -HA Ha yadda yada, or euro 5 speed $2500.00 -Someone snag that one that was posted for $1000-1500 in south Cal- plus the right flywheel, usual $800.00 plus shipping from the faraway land-if one can be found-they are said to no longer be avalable new-but I bet Gurka in India knows different I have been studying for a while what someone posted somewhere in this thread--what about a t5, I was thinking what about using the 240d bellhousing and the correct flywheel-or at least the 4 cyl flywheel ---that luke from 4X4 labs is a Do Do thinking he can make a chevy flywheel work--- some think it might be possible.

Last edited by panZZer; 02-06-2009 at 03:53 PM.
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  #9  
Old 02-04-2009, 09:13 AM
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electric shutoff

You can use the mechanical paddle to shut off engine by mounting a ford fast idle solenoid that pushes (80 granada 255v8) on a homemade bracket to push on the shutoff paddle. version 1 wires to a momentary pushbutton under the dash connected to an everhot wire like the radio feed. Version to uses a pulse- on- off relay triggered from the ignition feed. Mcmaster.com pn 6964k3.
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  #10  
Old 02-06-2009, 01:59 AM
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I bet your starter was smoking hot! Is that what all the smoke was from? Now get those GPs hooked up!
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2009, 02:10 AM
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no, the engine just has a nasty, nasty smoking habit until it gets warmed up. investigating that is next on the to-do list

now I just have a few "little things" to wrap up, like installing the seat...
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2009, 06:07 AM
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Where did the hairdrier idea come from? Thats a first for me I am not sure it helped much- Its not a cummings ya know- LOL
Its really hard on the engine /starter ,cranking it that long. It may be what is causing the smokeing issue.
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  #13  
Old 02-06-2009, 06:37 AM
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Mmm! Diesel!
 
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In a pinch, you can run a jumper the glow plugs with a set of jumper cables. I know I've done it. I'm sure it would beat the hell out of a hair dryer.

As for that smoking... My non-turbo does the same thing. I have no idea why. Perhaps MB equipped the car with a mosquito fogging feature?

Looking good so far. Keep it up!

P.S. Forgot to add that your starter isn't going to be happy with you if you don't start using the glow plugs.
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- K.C.Adams

'77 300D Euro Delivery
OM617 turbo / 4-speed swap
404 Milanbraun Metallic / 134 Dattel MB-Tex

Current status:
* Undergoing body work


My '77 300D progress thread

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  #14  
Old 02-06-2009, 08:36 AM
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yeah, I was counting to 30 when running the starter, and then giving it a 30 to 60 second rest. What's the recommended upper limit of how long to crank a starter?

actually, yeah, the hair dryer idea came from hearing that cummins engines have a heater in the intake. I have a heat-shrink tubing gun sitting around here somewhere, which is what I probably should have used (much hotter).
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  #15  
Old 02-06-2009, 08:36 AM
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oh, and the smoke is definitely coming out of the back of the turbo, and the smoke starts the second you start cranking. (right now there is no exhaust on it at all).
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