The drip method is an approved FSM procedure .....and quick and cheap to do....
You could just get a junkyard line and cut it as a drip tube.....

What is interesting is how far off the timing can be on these engines with no real performance differences noticed....

I was real dissapointed when I set mine from 13* BTDC to the correct 24* and did not notice any real driving change....that is how tolerant these engines are....

Still good for peace of mind to know that your timing is FSM correct....

Then you can get on to other maintenance issues of which there should be several....I have a 1978 300D also......still lots of things to do on mine......this is the fun part of these things....

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1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

I just want to make sure that there is only one way to install the IP. Is it possible to install it off tooth? From the looks of the old one I have it has a missing tooth and seems impossible to install wrong. I am gonna pull it this week to check everthing. Thanks.

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1978 Mercedes Benz 300D
1978 Pontiac Trans Am
1984 Isuzu P'up Diesel
1975 Datsun 280Z X2

Most of the part stores have a Haynes manual on these 123 series Benz's...the drip method is outlined there also....
The drip metod will get you as close as you need to be on timing if all else is correct...
I would check timing with the drip method before pulling the IP...
Really easy to do the drip...not as bad as it sounds...much easier to drip time than to pull an IP....
You can make a drip tube out of an old injector line....

__________________
1978 Yellow 300D (The Mustard Toad)
1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
1989 Grey Mitsu.4WD Mighty Max Pickup (Needs a Diesel transplant bad)

(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Absolutely.

The advantage of the drip method is that one sets the IP where the actual moment of fuel delivery begins(regardless of factors like roller follower or IP cam wear,that retard the moment).So one installs the pump as decribed,and then sets the pump at the FD begin using the drip tube.I guess if the pump is flawless,only a minor adjustment will be necessary...but sometimes the adjustment could stretch quite far...
In a perfect world,removing and installing the IP on the missing spline @ the prescribed crank degree would be enough(or using the lock tool and the electronic one,depending on pump) ...however,you have to be sure that the fuel delivery begins @ the exact position of the IP camshaft(bench...or the other methods decribed in the FSM).
MB used a tool(dial gauge holder)to check the actual begin of delivery on PES pumps,that could be used with a pump installed,but they no more list it in the tool program.(attachment)
I can't see why the drip tube method cannot be used on om60X pumps too.
P.S.
A tooth on the IP gear =roughly 5.3 degrees on the IP camshaft=10.6 degrees on the crankshaft...

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