![]() |
|
|
|
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
ok, so the only one's to clean on this engine are the two lines on the driver's side of the engine...
There is one running to the overboost protection valve, and one running back, cleaning those two is what needs to be done.... Maybe i'll try cleaning them better. Thanks sorry about the confusion. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Clean out the switch as well. Just run some carb cleaner through it.
What I did was to remove the ALDA all together. Remove and plug the lines and take off the ALDA unit. There are posts on how to do this. The EGR system and the ARV can be disconnected as well. Just plug the vacuum lines going over to the right (passenger side) across the front of the engine.
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad ![]() |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Aren't those put in place for a reason? |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
EGR is a half @ssed attempt at emissions control. What it does is cause all the gunk in the intake manifold and reduce performance considerably. I left the thing on the intake (there are block of plates available from members if you do a search on 'remove EGR') but I took it off and stuck a genuine US quarter dollar betwen the EGR valve and the manifold. It is an exact fit and when you put the EGR valve back on, it looks stock. I took the vacuum lines off, but I could plug them back in if my state had a requirement to test 23 year old Diesels for emissions.
The ARV was put on to help the OxTrap get hot quickly. Since your OxTrap should have been removed, it is no longer needed. The Overboost switch is a safety feature for the very remote change that your turbo's wastegate fails and the turbo spins up too much boost. In that event, the switch cuts off the boost signal to the ALDA cutting off the fuel enrichment and slowing down the turbo. If you remove it, first make sure that the line going to the wastegate is in good shape and then install a boost gauge. It will be up to you to take you foot off the pedal if the turbo boost goes over 15psi. DOn't get me wrong, a lot of people have done this -- do a search on remove ALDA for a lengthy thread on the subject with all the pros and cons... In my case the switch port was broken off and the PO had stuck a golf te into the line going to the ALDA -- he NEVER got fuel enrichment and the car was a total dog. That was one of the reasons I paid $2000 for a rust free SDL with all accessories working! I took it off to replace the shut down valve which is right near the ALDA and just 'forgot' to put it back. The difference in off the line performnce is pretty amazing and you can learn to not make smoke by keeping your foot out of the pedal until the turbo spools up. I am averaging 27+mpg without the ALDA so my MPG has actually gone up.
__________________
"I have no convictions ... I blow with the wind, and the prevailing wind happens to be from Vichy" Current Monika '74 450 SL BrownHilda '79 280SL FoxyCleopatra '99 Chevy Suburban Scarlett 2014 Jeep Cherokee Krystal 2004 Volvo S60 Gone '74 Jeep CJ5 '97 Jeep ZJ Laredo Rudolf ‘86 300SDL Bruno '81 300SD Fritzi '84 BMW '92 Subaru '96 Impala SS '71 Buick GS conv '67 GTO conv '63 Corvair conv '57 Nomad ![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|