Did you mark the injectors as to which cylinder they came from? If so put #5 in a different cylinder & see what happens.

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81 300D Turbo 190K sold
83 300sd 319K best $500 I ever spent-daily driverw/ 2 tank WVO set up

Swapped #5 with #4 before I took them to the shop. I thought the noise went down a little. This time Ill put 5 in 2 and see what happens.

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Hmmm, suppose the WVO has any bearing on lack of lubricity and subsequent damage to the Injector pump? And could the IP be the root cause of the noise?

Also, would poor fuel delivery timing cause nailing?

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Bama1


2008 SLK 280, Firemist Red - "Hurricane"
2001 F150 Lariat 4x4, Black on Black - "Badboy"
1982 240D 4 speed survivor -"Pearl" - Donated to Vietnam Veterans
1962 Oldsmobile Dynamic 88 -"Gertrude"

1954 model original owner - ~2.5M
Gray softtop/solid exterior/modified chassis

Sorry, I should have been more specific. This car is new-to-me, and has not had any biodiesel from either myself or the PO. Plus I am running biodiesel in my other cars *made from* WVO, very different from just dumping WVO into the tank unheated.

I know my timing is off 6.5 degrees at the crank due to chain stretch - I have the Woodruff key in hand to fix it. Maybe I will do that next before reassembly and see what happens. I am positive the sounds are not coming from anywhere near the timing chain region.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

OK, got a video up on you tube.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9p0Z1SeMHSI

You hear the noise first around :14 - and then it gets recreated a few times as I rev throughout. Take a listen...

(PO put the green coolant in there, its the first thing to do for when there isn't snow on the ground )

thanks again,
dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I really couldn't make it out, Dan. I did hear a ticking at idle though.

Does the sound increase in occurrence w/ rpm?


If you end up taking the valve cover to inspect, check:

-springs for cracks / broken - not always obvious to the eye.

-use needle nose pliers to wiggle EACH valve stem

-check valve lash again on all those cam lobes in the rear (4)

-turn the engine by hand looking for noises (or bump with the starter)

-try spinning each valve keeper and valve

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6* is no minor offset. Fix that first and then hunt down gremlins.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

OK, thanks guys for watching/listening. I am going to take the valve cover off and going to attempt the woodruff key install for my camshaft when I am feeling confident and not accident prone.

The sound increases with rpm and goes away around 2000, or doesn't get any louder and other noises mask it. I hear this in the cabin as a ticking type sound - it almost sounds like an exhaust leak that occurs when you first go from a stop.

Questions:

I am going to bump the starter with no valve cover on (and no injectors installed - they are out now so might as well leave them out so i am not fighting compression) - will this coat me in oil instantly or have unexpected consequences?

What's the valve keeper? Do I spin the valve by just turning the lock+adjusting nuts together?

Learning a lot on this one, as always...
dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I am asking if the speed / repetition of the sound increases with engine speed.

Does the occurrence of the sound vary as the speed of the engine varies or is it constant and/or random?

the oil won't be that big of a deal, set up rags around the outer perimeter of the head. The only squirting up there are the jets along the cam rail. And whatever oil flies off the chain.. but not at starter speed.

The keeper. .which isn't exactly the right term, is the hex plate that transmits force from the spring to the valve shaft.

good idea to bump with the injectors out and fix your stretch first.

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Oh I see. It goes up with engine speed always- it seems like 1/5 total rpm (one cylinder). As I mentioned by the time 2000rpm rolls around you can no longer hear it. Its a little worse when cold first thing in the morning. In the 1k miles I have had the car it has not gotten any worse, or better.

Thanks for the valve keeper description. Will inspect tomorrow during my efforts to install a woodruff key My main goal is not to drop anything down the chain valley (stuff with a clean towel).

I will take another video tomorrow inside the cabin.

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Remeasured chain stretch today with official 2mm valve lift method.

13-13.5 degree reading, meaning I am 2-2.5 degrees over the used chain spec per the FSM for my 617.952. I am NOT going to install 4 degree the woodruff key. I will leave well enough alone here. (checked with cam mark method, it agrees)

My previous stretch reading was thrown off by gunk that accumulated on the balancer marker giving me a 2-3 degree error! Let that be a warning - clean that thing!

Okay, so the chain is fine. Too bad I already went through the pain of removing the rusted bolts on the EGR pipe to access the spring

Next step is to go checking the items jt20 had outlined, and to spin the engine with the cover off listening for noise.

Im running out of things to check...
dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

Feeling around #4 and #5 valves, I think I have found the issue.

The #5 intake valve (rearmost valve) spring is loose. Its loose enough that I can rock it back and forth in its seat and make a very audible 'click'. The valve stem itself does not move, just the valve spring and valve keeper. When I am doing this, the cam lobe is at 1 o clock, so the spring is under min load.

It is much looser than any other intake valve's spring (assuming I move so the cam lobe on the valve in question is at 1 o clock, and the spring is at min load).

I don't know for sure if this is the sound I am hearing, but I would imagine it could get loud when everything is running at full speed. Either way, I am hoping I can fix it somehow.

What can/should I do?

(props to jt20 for having me check this)

Making progress...
dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

is this a high-mileage engine?

springs do age and lose their 'bounce'.... but is the spring cracked?

does it spin freely along with the 'keeper' or without?

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147k....low mileage.

I will re-inspect for a crack tomorrow. I couldn't see one today. Ill try spinning with the keeper tomorrow as well.

What am I looking at to R&R a cracked spring, if that is the case? Camshaft removal?

dd

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

I would be very surprised if you could get a new spring on without removing the cam... but it should be considered before you take the came off.

You'll have to set that cylinder to TDC and remove the rocker arms at least.

on the more daring side: you may need to lower the valve to get the spring on in that manner. Unless you have great faith in your abilities, I would not recommend doing this.

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