Timing Chain SOS - please help!! - Page 6 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

sixto · #76 02-22-2009, 10:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I don't understand why the tool cannot have a deep slot in it.......about 3X deeper than the current "screwdriver" slot.

And a freaking horizontalness indicator. I had to scribe mine.

Sixto
87 300D

Brian Carlton · #77 02-22-2009, 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

And a freaking horizontalness indicator. I had to scribe mine.

Sixto
87 300D

Agreed.............trying to judge it by feel is a nightmare.

Brian Carlton · #78 02-22-2009, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

I'm not sure how necessary this is if we're talking about the same tool. The tool I'm thinking of requires removal of the IP then installation of the tool. Since there's a time neither the IP nor tool is touching the timer, I conclude the tool is not mandatory if you don't turn the crank or release the tensioner.

Sixto, he's talking about that IP lock tool that we were discussing above........prevents rotation of the IP when it's removed from the timer.

JonL · #79 02-23-2009, 12:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

In theory, yes...........but he turned the cam 180 degrees..........where was the mark prior..........where is it now?

Let us leave no stone unturned at this point...........

No, he rotated the crank 360 degrees while keeping the cam stationary. There is only one mark on the cam.

JonL · #80 02-23-2009, 12:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I wasn't aware of that. It complicates the situation without the locking tool.

It's going to have to be a bit of trial and error, I'm afraid.

No trial and error. That will be a nightmare. At the risk of paperweighting, I'll share what I did. I found a brass hose barb fitting, probably a 5/16 barb, that fit closely in the port hole. I used a hacksaw to cut a slot in one end to engage the tang. I cut the length of the barb such that the port plug would hold it in place once the tang was engaged. To turn the pump cam, I put a thick soft vinyl cap over the splines. I used waterpump pliers to turn the cam with one hand while positioning my makeshift tool with the other. Clearly a piece of solid brass barstock would be better than my hose barb, but I used what I had on hand. I'll try to post a picture of the tool tomorrow.

JonL · #81 02-23-2009, 12:13 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I apologize...........you've clearly proven your mettle with regard to the knowledge of these engines.

I'm a mechanical engineer who has been in the heavy duty engine design and development business since 1985. I started my career with Deere and Company, then went to Cummins, then on to a small R&D company, now a partner in an even smaller company.

JonL · #82 02-23-2009, 12:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sixto

I'm not sure how necessary this is if we're talking about the same tool. The tool I'm thinking of requires removal of the IP then installation of the tool. Since there's a time neither the IP nor tool is touching the timer, I conclude the tool is not mandatory if you don't turn the crank or release the tensioner.

When I removed an IP to replace the big o-ring, I left the timer hanging on the chain with zip ties. The zip ties were optional. The timer wasn't going anywhere and neither was the chain. I didn't remove the tensioner.

Sixto
87 300D

Yeah, the centering tool is a bit of a mystery to me. On my engine there's something called an "assembly cage" that was discontinued later on. The centering tool looks (in the picture, I've never actually seen one) suspiciously like the assembly cage. I'm guessing the tool is just deeper than the cage so when it is installed it presses against the sprocket/timer and holds it in place. The tool is supposed to be installed before removing the pump. What I did was to take out my assembly cage, wrap about 10 turns of electrical tape around its snout so that when I put it back in it pressed against the sprocket. Then I took out the tensioner to keep from having any excess side load on the sprocket. Then I removed the pump. I didn't have any problems at all this way. But this is not a suggestion to do what I did... for obvious reasons.

JonL · #83 02-23-2009, 12:23 AM

A piece of heater hose ought to work well to protect the pump splines from the pliers when turning the cam. It doesn't take a lot of force to turn, so you don't need to squeeze down very hard.

Brian Carlton · #84 02-23-2009, 01:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonL

No trial and error. That will be a nightmare. At the risk of paperweighting, I'll share what I did. I found a brass hose barb fitting, probably a 5/16 barb, that fit closely in the port hole. I used a hacksaw to cut a slot in one end to engage the tang. I cut the length of the barb such that the port plug would hold it in place once the tang was engaged. To turn the pump cam, I put a thick soft vinyl cap over the splines. I used waterpump pliers to turn the cam with one hand while positioning my makeshift tool with the other. Clearly a piece of solid brass barstock would be better than my hose barb, but I used what I had on hand. I'll try to post a picture of the tool tomorrow.

Not worth the effort. I can send him the proper locking tool to be there in two days, if necessary.

Brian Carlton · #85 02-23-2009, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JonL

No, he rotated the crank 360 degrees while keeping the cam stationary. There is only one mark on the cam.

If true, then I agree there is no second case as defined in post #65. But, I'd sure like additional confirmation of this fact.

Ace Taxi · #86 03-05-2009, 05:49 AM

EPILOGUE - The paperweight rolls - uphill even!!

I finally got everything buttoned up yesterday, and the car runs great. Thanks to all for your help. These forums are truly invaluable.

JonL · #87 03-05-2009, 08:44 AM

Yes! Great news.

Brian Carlton · #88 03-05-2009, 09:24 AM

Yep, good job.

Always good to get out of the paperweight scenario.

babymog · #89 03-05-2009, 03:21 PM

Darn, another parts car off the market, er, I mean congratulations, happy it's back on the road.

;~)