Okay, so new rings I guess. The only thing I'm having the machine shop do is grind/polish the crank. The rest I am doing myself. I can have the head gone over later when I have more money, at this point I am just trying to scrape by with what is necessary.

MRGiggles where are you located, I might be able to sell you a whole motor running for much much less that what your looking at for a rebuild.

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1984 Euro 300SDC, (4spd standard)
1986 Toyota Landcruiser Diesel HJ60 5spd X2

Gone but not forgotten (some sold, some stripped)
1983 300 SD, 1985 300 SD, 1983 240D, 1986 300 SDL, 1985 300 SDL, 1983 300 D, 1984 300 D, 1985 300SD, 1987 300 SDL, 1983 300 SD, 1985 300 TD Euro, 1983 380SEC, 1990 300 D, 1987 300D, 1982 300D, 1982 300D, 1994 E420, 1987 300 TD, 1987 300 D, 1984 300 D

Agreed.

It would be very unusual for a 1-2" diameter case-hardened part to have a case-depth less than .030".

Would not surprise me in the least to learn that the case is .050 or even a bit more. Not that anyone plans to grind their crank -quite- that far...

Also, I'm not comfortable with the repeated declaration of 'scoring' as a crank-killer. Over the past 30 yrs, I've rebuilt a number of engines (from 1-lungers to Cat D9 engines) that had 'damaged' cranks; and I've never found 'normal' scores or grooves to cause issues after a rebuild.

So long as any -protruding- metal is properly removed, and any 'loose' particles in the scores are cleaned out, the crank seems to do just fine. If you think about it, 2 or 3 scores of .010 - .020" is just a tiny tiny % of the total journal-area.

To my mind, the -real- issue with journal-damage is whether you have a -flat spot- or not. Such spots are usually caused by the 'beating' when the bearing lets go.

If the journal has any sorty of flat spot, it will act as a kind of 'pump', and will screw up the oil-film formation.

Also, out-of-round journals have a similar effect.

So in sum, I guess I'd say that minor scoring can be cleaned up by hand and likely not cause a problem....and just about any kind of damage or tolerance-issue that's less than .010" total can be fixed with a crank-grind.

The above has been my own experience anyway.

Best of luck with your project....I applaud you for taking up the challenge and pulling it down for a rebuild.

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WANT to BUY: 3.0L diesel engine.

My other diesel is a....

1962 Cat D9-19A, 2,000 cu-in TD
1961 Cat 966B, D333 TD, powershift
1985 Mack MS300P 8.8L TDI, intercooled, crane-truck
1991 F350 4x4 5spd 7.3 IDI NA
1988 Dodge D50 4x4 5spd 2.4 Mitsu TD
1961 Lister-Petter 14hp/6kw Marine Corp genset weekly charging 5400 lbs of forklift batt for the off-grid homestead.
1965 Perkins 4-108 Fire/water Pump
1960 Deutz 20hp/8kw genset

Thanks.

I am located in SW Missouri.

I've done some looking around for parts and stumbled upon a website (http://germanstar.net/617te.htm). The have oversize bearings for 60.00 compared to parts trains 100.00 per set. Legit site? Anybody have experience buying from them? Cheap quality parts? The site says they are usually OEM parts. They also have more of a selection.

GermanStar is a member here.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Too bad you're not closer. I have a good running virtually complete engine in the parts section for $500.00

I haven't done much progress until today because I have been working on other stuff. Today I got the turbo, manifolds, and the valve cover off. I need to get the big Torx bit to get the cylinder head though. Anybody know off hand what size those bolts are?

Not Torx, but Triplesquare, I believe 12mm.

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

I'll have to pick that up somewhere outside of my town (Hillbilly Deluxe).

Anyway, assuming everything is fine, I'm looking at a max of 300.00 to get everything working again. Not bad?

$300 is OK, assuming your time is worth next to nothing. Still, the educational value will be priceless......

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

Ahh, my wasted youth.

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CC: NSA

All things are burning, know this and be released.

82 Benz 240 D, Kuan Yin
12 Ford Escape 4wd

You're four times

It's hard to

more likely to

concentrate on

have an accident

two things

when you're on

at the same time.

a cell phone.

www.kiva.org It's not like there's anything wrong with feeling good, is there?

My time is nothing, I like doing this kind of stuff and it keeps me busy.

When I get that bit and get the head off I will be sure to update with pics of what I'm at now.

The Snap-On truck came to town this morning and my dad got a bit for the cylinder head bolts. Once I got home, guess what I did? Yeah, you guessed it. I got all them out, but the cylinder head won't come off. We got all the bolts out for sure, even the two smaller allen heads on the injector-side of the engine. Everything is unhooked, I am stumped. We are going to leave it sit overnight to see if it loosens itself up. Am I missing something? The glow-plugs are still installed, as are the fuel injectors.

We got the back side a bit loose with a chisel and hammer.

IIRC, there's also two allen head bolts marked "a" inside the chain galley on the attached graphic.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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DJ


84 300D Turbodiesel 190K with 4 speed manual sold in 03/2012