Beware of the citric acid flush - you've been warned - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tangofox007 · #16 03-19-2009, 11:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels

All the citric acid did was remove the gunk that was plugging the holes in the radiator.

Not a chemistry major, eh? Citric acid can remove a lot moe than "gunk." With adequate dwell time, it will remove the radiator!!!

tankowner · #17 03-19-2009, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels

Mercedes-Benz brand coolant is a little more expensive at $10 a gallon vs. $6 for the "Green Stuff"

Maybe in 1980.

Ian White · #18 03-19-2009, 01:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75Sv1

What is considered hard water in CA? I think the definition is anything over 7. In PA its like 14. In IN its around 23. I try to use distilled water in the radiator, if mixing coolant with water.

Tom

Tom I do the same thing, even though my well and water softener produces very fine, and clean water. As far as using the Green Coolant it has rust inhibitors in it and is approved to work with aluminum parts. Besides, I don't run my coolant long enought to worry about damage. I put about 40,000 miles on the benz per year. So it is not in the engine long enough to hurt anything in my mind.

Am I stupid or completely stupid? haha

Gene Horr · #19 03-19-2009, 01:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels

All the citric acid did was remove the gunk that was plugging the holes in the radiator.

That is correct. I've seen this happen on a lot of old vehicles. The damage was already done before you started the flush. All the flush did was reveal it. As was mentioned better now than on the road.

amosfella · #20 03-19-2009, 01:23 PM

I flushed twice on my 95 S320, and used baking soda to neutralize it, then flushed out with water about 6-8 times.... The car has never run better..... I did the flush after the tstat piled up on me, blew out a hose on the back of the engine, and caused a seal on the water pump to leak.... Never had a problem after cleaning it out....

rrgrassi · #21 03-19-2009, 01:24 PM

When was MB coolant Orange? Deathcool is orange.

tobybul · #22 03-19-2009, 03:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LUVMBDiesels

As far as using green coolant, it does not protect the aluminum parts like G-05 does. It is not approved by MB and should not be used. That could be the reason your water pump failed.

FSM on W123 simply says use ethylene glycol coolant. And as has been said, G-05 was not around at the time.

KAdams4458 · #23 03-19-2009, 04:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

FSM on W123 simply says use ethylene glycol coolant. And as has been said, G-05 was not around at the time.

Accurate. Grean stuff won't harm the old stuff like my 617. On the other hand, the G-05 can't do anything but protect better and longer. Advanced chemistry is good. Whee!

At any rate, I own two other cars that call for G-05 or an equivalent for a factory fill, so I said to heck with it, and run it in everything. It's a lot easier to store several gallons of one kind of coolant than it is to store several different varieties. No need for several different open jugs, etc. I'd do the same with oil if I could.

babymog · #24 03-19-2009, 05:30 PM

x2.

Easier to buy the G-05 by the case and run it in everything under 10liters.

oldsinner111 · #25 03-19-2009, 06:48 PM

Glad I stick with Vinegar one gal. then water 30 minute run time without thermostat.Drain back flush heater core,Back flush engine when cool.
Jegs endorsed. Refill with polyetheline gycol 100%.Good for 7 years,boiling point 370 degrees.

sd300td · #26 03-19-2009, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ds190

...That's why the auto came from the factory with the correct MB gold coolant!

Not always. Some if not all later model cars came factory equipped with green colored coolant. You can't get the same green stuff in North America, which is why the dealer will sell you the gold stuff.

LUVMBDiesels · #27 03-19-2009, 07:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tangofox007

Not a chemistry major, eh? Citric acid can remove a lot moe than "gunk." With adequate dwell time, it will remove the radiator!!!

That is why you do not leave it in the system for long. The method is to fill with citric acid solution run the car for an hour or so then rinse the crap out of the system. If you leave it in for a week, that is on your head.

LUVMBDiesels · #28 03-19-2009, 07:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tankowner

Maybe in 1980.

Hey I did not write the article. I got it from "STAR MAGAZINE"
It was written in 2000.

Here is the 'culprit'

"Green Stuff vs. Orange Stuff (Antifreeze)

By Steven Rae"

I was looking for the recent article that really went into the chemistry, but it is not online yet.
As far as 'Orange Stuff' goes, I THINK he meant Yellow Stuff

When I bought G-05 a couple of months ago, it was not much more than the green stuff and was less than DeathCool. I think that since Ford and Chrysler both started specifying G-05 the price has come down.

babymog · #29 03-19-2009, 07:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldsinner111

Glad I stick with Vinegar one gal. then water 30 minute run time without thermostat.Drain back flush heater core,Back flush engine when cool.
Jegs endorsed. Refill with polyetheline gycol 100%.Good for 7 years,boiling point 370 degrees.

Does Jegs make radiators and heater cores now?

The glycol is not as good at transferring heat as water, the 50/50 mix is much better for that.

Sbean · #30 03-19-2009, 08:39 PM

I have twice made my own "freeze" plugs for my '68 Bronco. The first time was on the road, miles from anywhere on I 10 in the southern California desert. A freeze plug blew out of the back of the head, causing a startling cloud of steam. I walked back and looked for it; I didn't find it, but found a nice chunk of rubber from somebody else's tire, which I whittled into a disc, and bored a hole to install a bolt with washers and a nut. Tightening the bolt
expanded the rubber nicely in the hole. As a precaution, I tethered the bolt with string in case it came out. That plug stayed in place for years, until I took the head off to do a valve job. At that time I was at my friend's place in Darwin, CA, 35 miles from the nearest place to buy a freeze plug, so we made several rubber ones to replace rusty ones. They lasted until engine rebuild time.
Steve