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  #1  
Old 03-27-2009, 11:04 AM
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Driveshaft sleeve nut

Is it possible to remove the driveshaft without loosening the sleeve nut?
I do not have wrenches large enough to undo it. I believe they are a 50mm for the nut and 42mm for the shaft.

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  #2  
Old 03-27-2009, 11:15 AM
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driveshaft nut

Maybe...I have removed two in the junkyard without loosening nut....just slid right out....
The nut is not on very tight....I have used large channel lock pliers and chain strap wrenches before....
Be sure to closely mark the two sections like the are mated before pulling....mark very close with a fine scratch awl or such....
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  #3  
Old 03-27-2009, 11:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fruitcakesa View Post
Is it possible to remove the driveshaft without loosening the sleeve nut?
I do not have wrenches large enough to undo it. I believe they are a 50mm for the nut and 42mm for the shaft.
The DS has a front and rear section separated by the spline held by this nut. I don't know if you can drop the DS without separating the 2 sections because once you loosen the flex discs you will need to compress the shaft and this is where it gives.

The nut is not on that tight and an adjustable wrench or big pair of pliers should be able to loosen it (46mm).

Also, remember to put back the rubber sleeve that covers the spline before joining the 2 sections.
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Old 03-27-2009, 11:54 AM
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I do have large channellocks so I will give it a shot
Thanks for the input
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Old 03-27-2009, 12:46 PM
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I've used a pipe wrench without too much trouble.
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  #6  
Old 03-27-2009, 01:53 PM
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Gonna get some big wrenches

Channellocks and strap wrench were NG and I have a smallish pipe wrench I can try; bt my buddy Steve, all around heavy equipment mech , just got home and I know he has some big open end wrenches.
I am heading over there now to see what he's got.
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  #7  
Old 03-27-2009, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yellit View Post
Maybe...I have removed two in the junkyard without loosening nut....just slid right out...........
Yeah that happened to me before at the JY.
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  #8  
Old 03-27-2009, 07:22 PM
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It's out!

I lowered the exhaust system and loosened the ebrake cable right at the shaft center and got a 1 5/8 wrench on the front shaft hex and my channellock on the nut and broke it loose.
Unbolted and lowered the center carrier;
then it was just being patient and determined and finally getting the shaft end off the diff flange which was very snug till, with major prying , finally popped off.
Trans end also took a serious pry till it popped.
Slid the unit rearward and out onto the bench.
Then I marked the center splines and called it a day as I have chores to do before dark.
I will check everything tomorrow in the light of day.
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Old 03-28-2009, 05:40 PM
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DS ujoint notchy

I separated the Driveshaft halves to check the center carrier bearing
It spins freely with no rumbling and the rubber is not torn.
I can flex the rubber by pushing and pulling on the carrier and it seems to have free movement. Is this normal for the carrier rubber or should it be stiff?
I did discover a notchiness in the DS ujoint with distinct "step" areas as I move the joint through its range of motion. I would think that it should be smooth movement. If the ujoint has "worn" what are the options?
Can the ujoint be replaced by a diyer or do I have to have it professionally done?
There is a race shop about 30 miles away that offers driveshaft rebuilds
Would a worn ujoint cause the intermittent growl I am feeling and hearing since the center bearing seems quiet?
I have yet to spin and feel the diff and rear axles with the DS unhooked.
Like I mentioned in an earlier thread about the noise issue my rear passenger wheel has about 1/8 to 1/4" of side to side play but no top to bottom play.
If that wheel bearing was worn wouldn't it make noise allthe time not just on accel and decel?
Enough questions for now I hope I can get to the root of this.
All your help is well appreciated!
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Old 03-28-2009, 09:17 PM
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Anybody?
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  #11  
Old 03-28-2009, 09:40 PM
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Unhappy center u joint

That center u joint is very special and most driveshaft shops refuse to attempt....
There is very little play required of the ujoint so most can keep going as long as there is not bad slack in it.....

The center swing bearing is not too hard to replace...just be careful not to beat on it much or damage any parts of the shaft while servicing it.....driveshafts are precision machines that look like simple pipes and can be wrecked easily.....the u joint is a monster that should be left alone if servicable life is left in it....

I would change the center swing bearing and housing after going this far.....
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Last edited by yellit; 03-29-2009 at 01:07 AM. Reason: incorrect information
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  #12  
Old 03-28-2009, 11:00 PM
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There are many posts in the forum about how to tell if the ujoint is bad. Theres always talk about replacing the ds if the joint is notchy because it supposedly cannot be serviced.

I however do not understand what notchy means on a ujoint.

I agree with the previous member that you should change the center bealing and support since you have already removed the ds. Howver I don't know what he meant about the caution with the puller. I don't remember encountering that issue when I did mine almost 2 years ago when I replaced the bearing & suppost cuz the support was torn up.
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2007 Honda Accord SE V6
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97 Explorer - Found Another Home
2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home
85 300D - Found Another Home
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80 300TD - Found Another Home
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  #13  
Old 03-29-2009, 01:06 AM
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Driveshaft internal piece

Thanks Tobybul for setting me straight ...I have made a memory error ....
Sorry about the confusion on the puller....
I was thinking about a Volvo driveshaft I did recently.....
I will edit my post for correction....
No such internal disk on the Benz driveshafts...
But if you ever do a Volvo this is something to watch out for....

I think the description of notchy means as you move the u joint through its range of motion...you may feel (detents) in the arc of movement due to needle bearing/shaft wear that has occured in these locations....

Sort of like volume control knob clicks or notches on big home stereo receivers as you adjust the level up or down........
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1980 Blue 240D (The Iron Toad)
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(Open the pod bay doors HAL)

Last edited by yellit; 03-29-2009 at 01:16 AM. Reason: more info
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  #14  
Old 03-29-2009, 04:59 AM
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My 85 has the same feel when turning the U joing. there is a notch or detent feel to it, but then it has 343000 miles on it.

there isn`t a lot of movement in the U joint, but after several 100,000 miles there will be some wear.

The U Joint is staked in, so isn`t a DIY repair like most with the C clips.
there is a driveling shop in Portland, Or. that rebuilds MB shafts, but you are looking at 3 or $400. also a place on texas, think it is thrash driveline. some of the shops use a greaseable U Joint as a replacement instead of the sealed one like MB.

I did my center bearing a couple yrs ago and wasn`t that difficult, came off real easy. used a piece of exhaust tubing to tap it back on, and replaced the rubber sleave. not all that expensive to do.

Iam replacing mine with one off a 78 300D with 130,000 miles, and has a smooth U Joint.

Charlie
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  #15  
Old 03-29-2009, 08:07 AM
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Yes a distinct detent at certain spots is what I feel. Mine only has 122k on it.

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