Hmmm... when I did it before, I was opening and closing the caliper bleeder, but I don't really see how that would make a difference... maybe closing off the slave bleeder between allows less air to bubble in around the threads? Still just doesn't seem very likely.

I am actually in the East Bay, so I'm not all that far away, but I am fine continuing to fiddle with it on my own for now. I'll figure it out some day, maybe today!

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Since the o-ring didn't work, you still need to fix the leaking via the nipple threads. You only want to open the bleed nipple maybe 1/8 to 1/4 turn from closed, just enough for fluid to flow. If the nipple is loose and won't stay put on it's setting , take it out and wrap lots of teflon tape on the threads (don't block the hole). Maybe you also have a blockage upstream to the slave cyl? Push the fluid in slow and steady. Do not pump fast and hard like an ape! At this point (since you are having so much trouble), I'd suggest: one by one, crack each hose connection starting at the slave cyl and verify fluid is getting out as you do the back flush bleed. If you get fluid out at the slave, close it, crack the next connection at the fire wall and so on. I used a home made pressure bleeder (metal brake fluid container and hand bicycle pump) and didn't have any problems. Never tried using the brake caliper procedure (which I'll try next time) so can't help there.

ps, make sure your clutch peddle is in the up position while you bleed ( I'm not sure if it matters).

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I don't think I have a blockage, because when I bled top down with a pressure bleeder (the first of my many attempts to bleed this thing), I had a steady stream of fluid coming out.

Perhaps I am opening the slave valve too much. I have been doing about 1/3-1/2 turn. I can try that and the teflon tape - but how do you get the tape off to close it up again without reintroducing air into the system?

I actually think that the problem is somewhere else in the system - it could be the clutch MC.

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Leave the teflon tape and just tighten the nipple down. Could very well be a bad MC (you don't need much of a leak to cause a lot of problems). Or could be a bad hose(s), hose connection. That's why I suggested pressure testing the system and find where it leaks and replace the bad parts. The other approach is replace everthing if money is no object

ps, when I had problems with my clutch peddle where it would drop to the floor over a day or 2 after bleeding. I had no problems bleeding, the clutch just would not stay. I had no external signs of any leaks. I replaced the slave cyl and problem fixed. The only sign of a leak was a slight dampness around the rubber boot. .

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

I did do a pressure test when I bled from the top down. I connected the pressure bleeder to the reservoir and pumped it up, watching the gauge for a minute or two - it didn't go down to any notable degree (just slightly, but I attributed that to a threaded fitting that connects the screw cap to the bleeder tank is very slightly leaky.

Then I opened the valve to bleed the fluid, and the fluid squirted out freely, so I know there was no blockage either.

I am going to order a new master. If it's not that, then it might be a trip to the indy, or my first ever dive into the insides of a manual transmission.

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Charlie which car got the trans? The 300D or the 300SD?

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1974 240D 3.0L 4(M) - 250K -OM617.910 + 300D FW + Rajay turbo power!
1977 6.9 3(A) - 84k

Curtis, I installed it into the 300D.

so far about 400 miles on it, do get a vibration below 2100RPM. probably the point between eng. struggling to get going and turbo boost. stay above 2100 and it smooths out. still have some tweeking to do when we get back from this NV trip.

clutch works great, is a softer clutch than Iam use to.




Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Replaced the carrier bearing bushing?

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I replaced the carrier bushing and bearing and both flex discs. drive line cut and balanced. might have to lower the trans mount like LUTZTD mentioned.
I have the 2:88 Diff, so that changes it some over the 3:07.
when Iam back home Fri, I can do some investigating .

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works