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  #1  
Old 04-14-2009, 06:42 PM
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OM617.952 chain tensioner on OM616

Last weekend I adjusted the valves and noticed that the chain tensioner was not keeping the chain tight with out oil pressure. I know that the tensioner is supposed to keep tension even without pressure, and I can get another OM616 tensioner but it does not have the ratcheting feature of the newer OM617 tensioner.

So has anyone used the later style in a OM616?

I only have the NA OM616/7 book and don't know if the OM617.952 book states that the older style tensioner is to be replaced by the later ratcheting type.

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Old 04-14-2009, 08:28 PM
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Not sure but I think even "later" 616s dont use the ratcheting tensioner. just like the oil pump of the 616 is not chain driven, early or late.
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2009, 08:39 PM
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you only need a spring for inside the tensioner, they are available.

listen to Stevo.
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Last edited by jt20; 04-14-2009 at 08:55 PM.
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2009, 09:30 PM
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For my knowledge the 616 never had the ratcheting type. I think the ratcheting type was a later updated design. The trouble with mine is not the spring, the spring is just there to give initial tension on the chain. The oil pressure fills the tensioner and acts as a damper when the oil pressure is not present. The tensioner should not move in easily unless the check valve is not functioning properly, then its just against the tension of the spring which is not very strong. I could be wrong, this is just what I have been able to figure out using the FSM and this forum.

I wonder why the turbo got the ratcheting type and the NA's did not.
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1998 Mercedes E300TD

1983 Mercedes 240D Turbo, 131bar injectors, Cosworth intercooler and 63' Ford Falcon radiator, Ardic Parking heater, Headlight wipers, Best 38.6mpg.

1973 Saab 96 Rally Car, 1.8l V4 with all the race bits
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  #5  
Old 04-14-2009, 10:23 PM
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you should not be creating a situation where there is tension on the slack side -

why is this happening?
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  #6  
Old 04-15-2009, 12:17 PM
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The trouble is when I turn the engine over by hand to adjust the valves. When I turn the engine the cam with flip from the point of least friction to point of least friction. This is happening because the tensioner is not keeping pressure on the chain as it should.
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1998 Mercedes E300TD

1983 Mercedes 240D Turbo, 131bar injectors, Cosworth intercooler and 63' Ford Falcon radiator, Ardic Parking heater, Headlight wipers, Best 38.6mpg.

1973 Saab 96 Rally Car, 1.8l V4 with all the race bits
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  #7  
Old 04-15-2009, 12:45 PM
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I do not believe that is the problem...
Try taking out the glowplugs to adjust the valves...see if that solves that jump situation.

Where are you interfacing with the engine to turn it over by hand ?
The crank end bolt ?
The Power steering nut ?
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  #8  
Old 04-15-2009, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Graminal95 View Post
The trouble is when I turn the engine over by hand to adjust the valves. When I turn the engine the cam with flip from the point of least friction to point of least friction. This is happening because the tensioner is not keeping pressure on the chain as it should.
Maybe the vacuum pump (riding its little "roller coster' track) is causing the problem.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #9  
Old 04-15-2009, 02:51 PM
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I use the PS pulley bolt to rotate the engine. The compression isn't an issue with the slack, basically I start to rotate the engine, the chain tensioner compresses, the cam does not turn. Then when the tensioner cannot travel in any further the cam starts to turn. Because there is slack on the other side of the chain the cam rotates on its own from the force of the valves, till the slack is taken up or it finds the lowest point of force from the valves.

Has anyone else seen there tensioner full in when rotating the engine for a valve adjustment?

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1998 Mercedes E300TD

1983 Mercedes 240D Turbo, 131bar injectors, Cosworth intercooler and 63' Ford Falcon radiator, Ardic Parking heater, Headlight wipers, Best 38.6mpg.

1973 Saab 96 Rally Car, 1.8l V4 with all the race bits
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