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  #16  
Old 05-08-2009, 08:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 240DMartN View Post
Thanks for all the replies guys. I was actually wanting to sell this car soon (83 240D). And was really bummed out when I did this! I really don't have the time right now to replace the whole thing like probably should be done (I would probably break other stuff yanking it out), and I have no welding experience or anything. I was just wanting to get a feel for how bad of a situation this was so I know how to communicate that to any potential buyers.
If welding the repair kit on does not cause any problems I am guessing that welding the cut shut would not cause any problems easier.I would think that any muffler shop would weld the cut for you cheap.They could also do the same with the repair kit.
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2009, 02:10 AM
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Since the end of your torsion bar already seems to have quite a bit of rust, I'd just replace it, even if it means extra headache in the short term. Better that than have it fail down the road and have to take everything apart again. Plus, once you have the torsion bar out, you might be able to get at that UCA bolt. Believe me, I know what a %$^&# that is. It was like doing surgery. With a hacksaw. In the dark.

You could probably find a good torsion bar in the parts forum at a reasonable price. But, that'd just be my approach ... someone with more experience might (or someone who's less of a worrywart) find it worthwhile to repair.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--369,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--14,500 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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