Do you have a California model 1985? Where does you air cleaner live, on top of the turbo or right behind the right-side headlight?

I ran into this with my 1985 KaliKar; if you have a California model you have a bit more work to do.

Anyway, to answer you initial question, I bought this http://monstercraftsman.net/?l1=products to address the EGR value removal. It comes with a blank plate to block the intake hole and a round plate to block the trap oxidizer (or EGR port off the exhaust manifold) and new bolts to attach the plate!. However, I was not able to get the small round blocking plate on the trap oxidizer (an incredible pain in the butt), so I broke down and bought the trap oxidizer bypass pipe from the same guy.

I also pulled the vacuum line that runs from the EGR value across the engine to the left wheel well and put a vacuum line plug over the nipple there. I know there is more I can remove; but I'm still evaluating my next move.

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Mike Frederick
1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles

how much was the pipe? it replaces the pipe that went from the bottom of the egr to the exaust right? i hook it on to the exaust on one end, where does theother end hook into? where the egr was? i already took my adla off and the vac lines are all plugged. if you haven't, the alda gone gave me more power. Real easy to do too.

The pipe came from the same web site as the EGR plate; it was $200. It is a pipe that connects the exhaust manifold directly to the turbo inlet. There is no place to connect the EGR in the exhaust stream once you make this change.

I will be removing the ALDA soon...my problem is that I have read sooo much on this forum about removing the ALDA that I'm concerned about exactly what to do. Issues I've read about:

• There are ALDA factions here. Some say don't remove it, some say throw it away. Both express strong and valid opinions.
• There has been discussion about leaving the ALDA arm in place that goes into the injection pump. In fact, there has been discussion about fixing the ALDA arm at specific heights. I think I will be looking into an adjustable height clamp to decide where I'd like to leave it.
• Apparently removing the ALDA will create some sort of opening that goes into the IP. I'm concerned about that.

Also keep in mind that there are discussions on the forum about what vacuum system piping can be removed once you get rid of the ALDA/EGR. I need to get up to speed on that; especially since I have an 1985 KaliKar...I have a bunch more stuff to trash than most.

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Mike Frederick
1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles

do you know what size hex bolt the egr has. i need to go buy one and i don't want to have to buy a whole set. I have taken off i think 5 things so far off my kali and everyone of them have made the car faster. no worrries on the alda. all it does is adjust for you how much fuel gets in. without it you control that by how much you floor the accererator. If you floor it it will blow major black smoke. It's actually kind of fun if someone is riding your ass!

This diagram of the 1985 California and Federal 300D and 300SD vacuum system shows what to remove marked in red X's.







.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I think they're 6mm, but seriously, buy a set. They're fairly cheap as long as you don't buy top of the line. I think I spent 15 bucks for my last set.

ok i will! I used the diagram fom post #35 and it worked great! thanks!

Thanks! I had seen this picture before and knew I needed to get back to it; you sped things up a lot for me.

BTW: I just finished making these modifications. So much cleaner under the hood. Not a big noticeable change in driving, but I do think I can actually hear the turbo on occasion now. But I do have a few questions and an observation.

Q: Object 85 (Vent Filter). I plugged the end of the filter that had lines to 81 (Switchover valve, vacuum converter) and 84 (vacuum converter). What is on the other end of this line? Do I need to keep the plugged vacuum filter dangling in front of the firewall? Or remove the filter and plug the line behind it?

Q: What should I do with the electrical connections that went to 81 and 84? For the moment I have just tucked them out of the way, but should they be shorted, or taped closed, or what?

OBS: I was tracking lines to mentally prepare for the ALDA removal and found the line from 126 (switchover value, boost pressure aneroid) to 110 (exhaust manifold) was unplugged at the manifold. When I attempted to reconnect it the line snapped off (hard and brittle). When I get to removing the ALDA, will I be plugging all the lines that lead to the ALDA? I have to assume that I currently have an exhaust leak at the nipple that is supposed to connect to 126 since I cannot connect that line. Should I remove the nipple from the exhaust manifold and locate a plug to close-off that hole?

I am reattaching your picture with my additions for ALDA removal. Please comment on the correctness of the diagram with respect to removing the ALDA. If the diagram looks correct then I have to ask what I do with the remaining line leading to 126? Plug it, can't do this? TIA.

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Mike Frederick
1986 300SDL, 240K+ miles
1985 300D KaliKar, 270K+ miles

I understand making the plate to block off the intake but what needs to be done to block of the exhaust?

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1981 Mercedes 300SD Turbo diesel -- 245,000
2006 Honda CRV -- 53,000

That needs blocking off as well, otherwise you'll get soot filled exhaust blowing in the engine compartment.

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83 SD

84 CD

Any ideas on how to block it off?

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1981 Mercedes 300SD Turbo diesel -- 245,000
2006 Honda CRV -- 53,000

Or do I keep the egr on but just insert the spacer plate?

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1981 Mercedes 300SD Turbo diesel -- 245,000
2006 Honda CRV -- 53,000

If you can find a piece of metal, a friend used a coin on his/my old 240, and JB welded it in.

I bought a kit from BC here, haven't installed it yet. Comes with what you need and instructions.

I have left the valve in place and simply plugged off the vacuum lines. If the valve does not get any vacuum, it will not open.

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83 SD

84 CD