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  #1  
Old 05-15-2009, 07:09 PM
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A question about the DIY for jacking up the W126

I was reading in the DIY about how to jack up the W126. I have to change the brakes on vesuvius tomorrow, but I still a bit foggy about how to jack it up. The pictures in the DIY are gone. Can anyone point me to either the pictures or else repost them? I would really like to make sure the car is not going to collapse on me while I am pounding on the old rotors....

Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 05-15-2009, 07:21 PM
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On each corner under the jack point (the holes) there should be a rubber pad. Place a jack/jack stand under those....that is where MB intended you to jack the car from.
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  #3  
Old 05-15-2009, 07:23 PM
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Makes sense. Where would I jack the car from if I was going to use a jack stand? Go in a little bit?
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  #4  
Old 05-15-2009, 07:34 PM
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It's safe to lift on the read diff also.
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  #5  
Old 05-15-2009, 07:41 PM
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I jack under each shock,that way all your travel is not gone lifting the body.
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  #6  
Old 05-15-2009, 07:58 PM
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When using a floor jack, I use the diff in back and the engine crossmember in front. Been doing that for years on every car.
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  #7  
Old 05-15-2009, 08:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toomany MBZ View Post
When using a floor jack, I use the diff in back and the engine crossmember in front. Been doing that for years on every car.
Yeah that works too, makes it a lot easier to get it on stands on the sides then.

In fact I raised up one today using the diff. And now its stuck that way until I finish my project because I removed the diff!
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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  #8  
Old 05-15-2009, 09:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mowoc View Post
I would really like to make sure the car is not going to collapse on me while I am pounding on the old rotors....
Pounding on the rotors would seem to be a totally unnecessary step.
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  #9  
Old 05-16-2009, 10:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Pounding on the rotors would seem to be a totally unnecessary step.
I hope your right. When I looked a the brakes recently they looked like they had been neglected for some time. The rotors appeared to be old and paper thin. I had a volvo where the front rotors had frozen onto the car and did have to be pounded off with a 5 pound mallet. Does this happen on the MB?
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Assumption is the mother of all screw ups.

Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas

All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke
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  #10  
Old 05-16-2009, 12:54 PM
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Some times a bit of persuasion helps.
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  #11  
Old 05-17-2009, 01:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mowoc View Post
I hope your right. When I looked a the brakes recently they looked like they had been neglected for some time. The rotors appeared to be old and paper thin. I had a volvo where the front rotors had frozen onto the car and did have to be pounded off with a 5 pound mallet.
Does this happen on the MB?
Yes. My 126 had been sitting for a number of years (though PO insisted he took it on the road) and the front rotors were a PITA. After some persuasion they were ok, but yes, a massive hammer and lots of muscle were involved. Soak it overnight with PB blaster. Good luck!
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  #12  
Old 05-17-2009, 02:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mowoc View Post
I hope your right. When I looked a the brakes recently they looked like they had been neglected for some time. The rotors appeared to be old and paper thin. I had a volvo where the front rotors had frozen onto the car and did have to be pounded off with a 5 pound mallet. Does this happen on the MB?
I had a rotor stuck before.....some pounding got it off. Now that I have a torch I just sit and heat it for a while, and it usually comes loose much easier.

My toyota was the WORST.....it took about 10 minutes with a sledge hammer to get the stupid rotor off......in fact pretty much every non-MB I've worked on (Buick....chevy....dodge.....toyota....) have all needed pounding to get the rotor off. On the MB's I've not had much issue considering how many I have done....on my W124 they slipped right off with no resistance.

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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-
'15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800)
'17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k)
'09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k)
'13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k)
'01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km)
'16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
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