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#1
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Hard brake line repair/replace?
Folks,
I am in the midst of repairing rusted out fuel lines on the '85. While doing this I noticed the long rear hard brake line is badly rusted in small spots. It is not leaking, and the brakes work fine. I am planning to POR-15 the small areas and put it back together. OR Can I put in a 6 inch hard line patch somehow with compression fittings? I dont want to replace the whole thing. Im already having too much fun with the fuel lines. OR Am I being a moron for not replacing the entire long length? I think Im starting to go crazy with the rust related repairs. Never again will I buy a 123 from the rust belt. dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#2
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I think SAE requires flared fittings but personally from a technical standpoint, I would use stainless steel Swagelok fittings or similar.
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Ron Schroeder '85 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO '83 300 Turbo Diesel 2 tank WVO Some former WVO vehicles since ~1980: '83 Mercedes 240D '80 Audi 4000D '83 ISUZU Pup '70 SAAB 99 with Kubota diesel '76 Honda Civic with Kubota diesel '86 Golf Several diesel generators All with 2 tank WVO conversion LI NY |
#3
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I think they relaxed that requirement on rear brakes.
I would replace as much as seems like it is rusted. Check all the mounts for rust issues. Also, I would use flare fittings, no need for extra expense.
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On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
#4
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Don't use compression fittings! They probably won't burst on you, but they may squeeze the line enough to impede flow (ask me how I know).
Replacement Euro brake lines are available at AutoZone. If you want to patch, you can buy short lengths from AZ, the unions are available at Napa and the bubble flare tool is available from eBay.
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1984 300TD |
#5
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They also sell the "Bubble" Flaring kits. I bought one several months ago it was about $24 from one of the Ebay Sellers and while a China Import is marketed by the too company OTC.
They may be available from the local autoparts but I did not look.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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The best pic I could find on short notice:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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Generic brake line from Autozone is very cheap. Potentially wrecking your car due to a half a$$ repair is expensive. Spend less than $10 and fix it right.
Scott p.s. Autozone also rents the bending tool for free ($5 or so refundable deposit)
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Scott 1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000 1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000) 1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold) 1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold) 1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!) 1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold) 1995 Ducati 900SS (sold) 1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold) 1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.) 1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold) 1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold) |
#8
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dieseldan,
i did the brake lines myself with a bending tool which I eventually did not use so much as well as the flaring tool. in the pictures posted above, i dont believe they are correctly labeled. its either single flare or double flare. possibly the hardest part is bending the lines that go outwards from the T-valve to the brake/hub area. might be different from your vehicle, but on my 300D Turbo, watch out, lots of bends on the road... Best thing to bend them with the original taped side by side. And oh, practice like nobody's business. And probably the most key of all key tips: before you crimp the end, please make sure you put on the nut! because once you flare it and unless you cut it extra long, you're out of luck. You'll have to bend the whole thing again. here are 2 links I collected along the way that helped: http://www.pharmacy.arizona.edu/staff/wunz/NoABSTCS/DoubleFlare.html http://www.carcraft.com/howto/50919/index.html |
#9
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thanks guys. i should replace that line. i think i knew it all along.
trouble is that it's a nightmare to replace that 10' line back to the rear without a lift. i may limp this one over to the indy to do. id think with a lift and their skills they'd be able to patch it up very quickly and not cost too much. dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#10
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If they try and charge a lot find somewhere else. I had the lines replaced about a year ago and from what I remember the price was minor.
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#11
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Quote:
But, if you can do the fuel lines, the brake line will seem easy, especially now that you've had practice....
__________________
On some nights I still believe that a car with the fuel gauge on empty can run about fifty more miles if you have the right music very loud on the radio. - HST 1983 300SD - 305000 1984 Toyota Landcruiser - 190000 1994 GMC Jimmy - 203000 https://media.giphy.com/media/X3nnss8PAj5aU/giphy.gif |
#12
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DD,
I would replace the whole length. I tried patching in a piece with flare kit and could not get it so seal after many tries. Paul
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81 300D Turbo 190K sold 83 300sd 319K best $500 I ever spent-daily driverw/ 2 tank WVO set up |
#13
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What if you DON'T have a lift? It looks like I'll need to replace mine. I do have jack stands, but even with those, it's not easy to manuever under the car and those rear brake lines don't look very easy to get to.
__________________
" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#14
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I don't think I'd want to try patching something like brake lines. I guess the hard lines run all the way from the master cylinder to where they attach to the hoses?
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
#15
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A Mercedes mechanic I spoke to last week told me that you have to drop the rear subframe assembly out to get to the brake lines. Is this true? If so, how does that work exactly? I see what he means because there is a joint from the main F-B line to the L-R lines which seems to be concealed by the subframe.
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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century OBK #55 1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles 2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles 2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles |
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