I was wondering if all the O ring and crush washer were the same for all models. I have a 84 300d euro that is leaking and needs the seals and crush washers. So are they model specific.

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Chris
Ventura, CA
78 240D 4 Speed- 169,200- Sold
84 300D Euro- 190,500
02 New Beetle TDI- 75,000- Sold
06 Liberty CRD- 95,000

Euro 123 will have the M pump, same as the 124, so probably yes.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Good catch - to say for sure, we'd need to see a photo of your injection pump. Better yet, post all the numbers from the tag on the side of the pump...

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Dave
Boise, ID
Check out my website photos, documents, and movies!

I am 99% sure. Saw an SDL in the yard yesterday.

__________________
http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Sorry, I mean to answer Chris's question for sure, we'd need a photo of his IP. I don't think it's safe to say that all Euro models have M pumps and all USA models have MW pumps. I thought there was some cross-pollination towards the end of production on the 617. And, you never know if the pump had been replaced by a previous owner at some point. That's why a photo would help!

I am pretty sure I found what I needed but just to be sure:
Pump number 617-070-43-01
EPC say I needed:
O-Ring 017-997-41-48
Crush Washer 001-997-34-40
Another Question, how hard is to disturb what is under the crush washers. Do you have to try pretty hard or is it one wrong touch and you have messed it up.

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Chris
Ventura, CA
78 240D 4 Speed- 169,200- Sold
84 300D Euro- 190,500
02 New Beetle TDI- 75,000- Sold
06 Liberty CRD- 95,000

It depends. If the plungers are all at the bottom of their stroke, I think it's pretty hard to screw it up. However if a plunger is raised up, it can turn slightly and not re-seat properly (there's a pin which aligns it, further down in there, hard to see). So you want to be really careful when removing the copper crush washers.

On an M-pump, if you insert the pump locking tool at 15° ATDC with cyl #1 on compression stroke, I believe all the plungers will be at the bottom of their stroke (i.e., best case). However most of the MW pumps don't have this option. You'll know if you messed anything up when you re-start the engine... note the 3-stage torque procedure mentioned here (in the 606 FSM) for the M-pump.

On the MW pump, the torque is single stage at 40-50 Nm. The washer is located above the delivery valve carrier on the M pump, but below the carrier on the MW pump. So it's important to know which pump type you have!

Long Time no update...sorry. The car has been running much better, it still shutters for the first 30 seconds after starting cold, but it hasn't been missing on idle anymore. Last night I tried to adjust the Alda fitting without removing the intake manifold, and with out having a 24mm combination wrench I couldnt get enough grip to break the alda body from the brass union nut. I went to Autozone and the biggest size they sold was 22mm. I'm hoping to borrow one from a friend so I can remove the alda body, clean it out, adjust it 1-1.5CCW and see if my performance and shifting issues improve.

(Now if I can just keep from other stuff breaking! Last week I replaced a door opner, sunvisor clip, 3 courtsey lights, and the seat control panel in the door. All these little nick knack things I was able to find in the Bakersfield Pick a part from Gasser donors)

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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles
1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg
Intro Thread

Questions: How old are the engine mounts, and have you verified that the ELR is working? You can test the ELR by removing the 2-wire connector at the top/rear of the IP (the ELR actuato is the round red thingy). With the wire removed, the idle speed should drop noticeably. When you reconnect the wire, the RPM will spike up, then settle down to normal. If there is no change at all with the wire on or off, the ELR system isn't working (either broken wire, bad actuator, or bad computer).



You probably don't want to take the ALDA apart (the square aluminum type can be disassembled, the round steel type is sealed). However you should pressure test it on the car with a MityVac. If it doesn't hold pressure, the shaft seal is toast. Regardless, if you adjust or shim the ALDA to increase off-idle power, it should also improve shifting if you're getting late/hard shifts. It's hard to know what it *should* shift like, if you don't have another car to compare to that is tuned properly.

I believe that the Engine mounts are original to the car. I'll have to look up in the FSM to see how to properly test their integrity. I'll check the ELR and mighty vac Alda test before I pull the Alda valve for adjustment.

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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles
1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg
Intro Thread

Just look at them.

If they look collapsed, they are bad.

The rubber portion is supposed to be round and symmetrical.

If they are anything else they are bad.

There should be no noticeable compression.

The planes of the top and bottom of the mount should be parallel.

You might have to get in there with a camera for a close-up and then enlarge it on your computer.

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1993 W124 300D
-297K on the clock as I type this.

Guys, sorry, I thought I posted a link to the factory procedure to measure the engine mounts. Here it is:

http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/124_engine_mounts.pdf

They can last a long time at around 14mm, but once they're at 13mm (or worse), it's time to change 'em. New will be in the 16-17mm range. The right side tends to fail sooner, so about halfway through their lifespan, you can swap left to right and extend the useful life of the set of mounts.

About checking the ALDA with a Mity-Vac, make sure it's set to pressurize the ALDA, not pull vacuum. The ALDA must be tested with pressure. It may hold vacuum fine while leaking under pressure, and since it normally operates under pressure from the turbo, that's how it should be tested. A slow gradual leakdown is acceptable, but if you can't pump it above 5psi by hand, the shaft seal is toast. A bad shaft seal only affects part-throttle power delivery though, at full throttle the turbo provides more than enough air to overcome the slight seal leakage.

Thanks for that I'll be sure to check this proceedure out tonight as well

Since this seems to be a very complicated and involved process to troubleshoot vacuum and tranny shifting stuff, I started a new post that would hopefully help others find the same solutions I will (hopefully) find.

See the tranny/Vaccum adjusting and troubleshooting thread here:
1990 w124 300D 2.5 Turbo hard shifting tranny, but with no vacuum leaks

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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles
1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg
Intro Thread