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  #76  
Old 06-24-2009, 03:21 AM
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Has the engine started running any smoother?

Mine took almost 200 miles before it calmed down to near perfect after I properly torqued down the new pressure valve seals and O-rings on the delivery valves.

I used the 3/8" drive torque wrench that you can get at Harbor Freight and all is well. You mentioned that you think you may have over-torqued yours in the past using this tool but if you remember that the Nm gauge is actually daNm you will get it right. I almost destroyed my mountain bike fork not realizing this with my longer torque wrench. Luckily the bolt broke before the fork body did. I also confirmed on the other side that I was in the 22 ft/lb and 26 lb/ft range. Maybe this isn't the problem you had with it but I got mine sorted out using the same tool and some new pressure valve seals.

The idle has dropped to the proper range and the engine is running as smooth as can be now.

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Last edited by i-osprey; 06-24-2009 at 08:03 AM.
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  #77  
Old 06-24-2009, 02:55 PM
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Excellent! Someone replaced that timing chain - there's no way it would read 0 degrees otherwise. Typical stretch is 2-3° after 50-100kmi or so. Regardless, that's a nice bonus, you don't have to touch the chain.

Oil leak: You will have to clean that mess up as best you can... engine cleaner, carb cleaner, rags, paper towels, and elbow grease. It's a nasty job but you have to clean it up to pinpoint the leak source. My money is on the front crank seal as the likely culprit. I had to change mine at 150kmi, it leaked like a sieve. Pics before and after. It's bone dry now. The seal is cheap but you need a flywheel lock tool for this job ($140 or so, IIRC, don't think anyone has a rental available). But first figure out if that's the problem.

The oil dipstick tube does not have a seal, it is a very tight press-fit into the timing cover. The oil pan is a nightmare to R&R with the engine in the car, and it's not likely to be the source of your leak... oil doesn't usually flow upward.


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  #78  
Old 06-24-2009, 03:56 PM
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post
Oil leak: You will have to clean that mess up as best you can... engine cleaner, carb cleaner, rags, paper towels, and elbow grease. It's a nasty job but you have to clean it up to pinpoint the leak source. My money is on the front crank seal as the likely culprit. I had to change mine at 150kmi, it leaked like a sieve. Pics before and after. It's bone dry now. The seal is cheap but you need a flywheel lock tool for this job ($140 or so, IIRC, don't think anyone has a rental available). But first figure out if that's the problem.

I was thinking that the front seal is also the culprit, but on some other cars I have worked on, replaceing that seal requires pulling the pan off. I'm guessing from your pictures thats not the case with this 602. The whole front of the block, including powersteering pump, alternator, waterpump, oil pump, tranny lines, and sway bar are all "gunked" over, but suprisingly the car never drips on the driveway. Between the last oil change, I also couldn't see the leak via the dip stick going down over 5k miles. Leaks really annoy me, so its on my squawk list, along with my last fuel leak (small weep) from the stop lever on the injection pump. Pretty stoked to not have to replace the timing chain.
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  #79  
Old 06-24-2009, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by rocketboy52 View Post
Leaks really annoy me, so its on my squawk list, along with my last fuel leak (small weep) from the stop lever on the injection pump. Pretty stoked to not have to replace the timing chain.
Same here - I hate leaks. The stop lever leak is easy to fix, click here to see the procedure. The leak should be oil, not fuel, btw.

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  #80  
Old 06-24-2009, 04:39 PM
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Same here - I hate leaks. The stop lever leak is easy to fix, click here to see the procedure. The leak should be oil, not fuel, btw.

Your right, nice sooty diesel oil, stains your fingers for weeks on end!
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  #81  
Old 06-24-2009, 04:49 PM
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Your right, nice sooty diesel oil, stains your fingers for weeks on end!
Nah, not if you wear disposable gloves... I go through a ton of those things! I order mine from captruff (forum member), his business sells these, any type you want (latex, vinyl, nitrile, etc). Drop him an email for specifics. Although nitrile are not shown on the website, he does have them. I'm almost out of 'em, need to place another order... thanks for the reminder!

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  #82  
Old 07-01-2009, 03:41 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by i-osprey View Post
Has the engine started running any smoother?

Mine took almost 200 miles before it calmed down to near perfect after I properly torqued down the new pressure valve seals and O-rings on the delivery valves.

I used the 3/8" drive torque wrench that you can get at Harbor Freight and all is well. You mentioned that you think you may have over-torqued yours in the past using this tool but if you remember that the Nm gauge is actually daNm you will get it right. I almost destroyed my mountain bike fork not realizing this with my longer torque wrench. Luckily the bolt broke before the fork body did. I also confirmed on the other side that I was in the 22 ft/lb and 26 lb/ft range. Maybe this isn't the problem you had with it but I got mine sorted out using the same tool and some new pressure valve seals.

The idle has dropped to the proper range and the engine is running as smooth as can be now.
I drove ~ 500 miles since I did the DV washer R&R with proper torque, and while there is an improvement in idle, I'm still getting that slight tremble (partial miss) every 3-5 seconds while the engine is cold.

I did use a torque wrench at the proper NM setting, when I reassembled the DV. I still have a trembling miss, every 2-3 seconds when the car is cold, and since I put the old injectors back in, I've got one, maybe two that are Nailing really hard. I'm building my own nozzle pop tester, and have most of the bits, but now I need to buy a monarch nozzle set with the shims.

I found Monarchs website, but it doesn't look like they sell to the public over the web. Does anyone know of a E-tailer that sells monarch's nozzles and shim sets (besides our friend at M E R C E D E S S O U R C E?)
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Last edited by rocketboy52; 07-01-2009 at 04:20 AM.
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  #83  
Old 07-01-2009, 03:43 AM
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Your right, nice sooty diesel oil, stains your fingers for weeks on end!
Sweet, next on the squawk list,
Right after cooling issues, leaking crank seal, rough engine running, and stiff shifting tranny... Then I'll fix the stop seal, and the IP side plate seal.
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  #84  
Old 07-01-2009, 03:48 AM
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So I haven't been driving my car, as I was hoping some parts and tools that I ordered would come in. Telephone salesmen told me a I should get the parts by last Wed, but here it is a week later and no parts or tools. he said that because he essentially was having a dealer drop ship the parts, it would take a day or two longer then typical. Well its a week plus, lets hope the parts show up

Also, while fooling with my water pump, I managed to bolt everything back up with a leak, so I'll have to put a real gasket in there, and also assmeble the Pump housing on the bench, per FSM instructions.

Here is my make shift breather hose and temporary plastic elbow replacement. Let me know what you think
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  #85  
Old 07-01-2009, 03:54 AM
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One more question, How much oil should be coming through the breather line? My intake manifold is totally COVERED in oil sludge. From a few other posts I have read, this sounds like it is normal? I don't see why one would want motor oil all through the intake. With out my breather collector tub on, before my frankenstien temp fix, a good bit of oil was all over the place, is this normal?





GSXR, when you did the waste gate mod to remove the ERG stuff, did you also change this breather tube to keep engine oil out of the intake? What did you do with the breather port then, some after market breathing cap perhaps? Got any pics?
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  #86  
Old 07-01-2009, 04:24 AM
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Originally Posted by gsxr View Post

Oil leak: You will have to clean that mess up as best you can... engine cleaner, carb cleaner, rags, paper towels, and elbow grease. It's a nasty job but you have to clean it up to pinpoint the leak source. My money is on the front crank seal as the likely culprit. I had to change mine at 150kmi, it leaked like a sieve. Pics before and after. It's bone dry now. The seal is cheap but you need a flywheel lock tool for this job ($140 or so, IIRC, don't think anyone has a rental available). But first figure out if that's the problem.
With the right tool, how gnarly of a job was it? Also what is IIRC, is that a tool brand? I'll go look up the specialty MB tool list and search for Flywheel lock tool. I can always buy it and then resell it, I've done that a number of times with the special 4x4 tools needed to rebuild an explorer front end a did a few years back. I bought the tools used on ebay, and sold them on an explorer forum after I was done for almost full retail! I know I'm a jerk, but I'm poor from buyin old cars (or so my wife says)
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  #87  
Old 07-01-2009, 04:09 PM
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One more question, How much oil should be coming through the breather line? My intake manifold is totally COVERED in oil sludge. From a few other posts I have read, this sounds like it is normal? I don't see why one would want motor oil all through the intake. With out my breather collector tub on, before my frankenstien temp fix, a good bit of oil was all over the place, is this normal?

GSXR, when you did the waste gate mod to remove the ERG stuff, did you also change this breather tube to keep engine oil out of the intake? What did you do with the breather port then, some after market breathing cap perhaps? Got any pics?
Yep, this is pretty normal. As long as your oil consumption rate is ok, you have nothing to worry about. Oil in the intake is fine, as long as it's not mixing with soot to form a nasty sludge - that's why everyone wants to kill EGR. For an OM60x engine, normal would be using 1 quart every 4000-6000 miles (or better), acceptable would be a quart every 2000-4000, and when you get below 1000 there is something seriously wrong.

But no, I did not re-route the PCV tube, it still feeds into the intake on my cars...


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  #88  
Old 07-01-2009, 04:50 PM
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Monark Injector Nozzles

Two different board members offer R+R (With Pop Testing and Balancing) With
NEW MONARK Injector Nozzles.(At Very reasonable prices!)

C Sean Watts
AND
bgkast
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124.128
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  #89  
Old 07-01-2009, 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by compress ignite View Post
Two different board members offer R+R (With Pop Testing and Balancing) With
NEW MONARK Injector Nozzles.(At Very reasonable prices!)

C Sean Watts
AND
bgkast
I've attempted to contact C Sean Watts via private message multiple times and to his listed email over a month ago multiple times, and still haven't heard back from him.
I'll try bgkast, but I wanted to shim and test them myself if I can find a source for the nozzles and shims. I looking for a place that sells the shim set and the nozzle sets. If its just a not possible to order them via the web, then I guess I would see if I could get them done by someone.
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  #90  
Old 07-01-2009, 07:54 PM
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W124.128 hard fuel lines

@rocketboy52
broken metal fuel lines from IP to injectors left me stranded twice. In one locaction I found somebody who brazed the line and I was able to drive home.
The second time I was close to forklift service place and they found a suitable
line for me, much thicker than the one from MB. Then my trusted mechanic told me to take the leaky line off, hammer the damaged end flat and bend it over and re-install, cover injector with plastic or something. Car will get you home.
Carry now a couple of spare hard lines in my trunk and suitable wrench. Cheers

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