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#76
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Has the engine started running any smoother?
Mine took almost 200 miles before it calmed down to near perfect after I properly torqued down the new pressure valve seals and O-rings on the delivery valves. I used the 3/8" drive torque wrench that you can get at Harbor Freight and all is well. You mentioned that you think you may have over-torqued yours in the past using this tool but if you remember that the Nm gauge is actually daNm you will get it right. I almost destroyed my mountain bike fork not realizing this with my longer torque wrench. Luckily the bolt broke before the fork body did. I also confirmed on the other side that I was in the 22 ft/lb and 26 lb/ft range. Maybe this isn't the problem you had with it but I got mine sorted out using the same tool and some new pressure valve seals. The idle has dropped to the proper range and the engine is running as smooth as can be now.
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1993 W124 300D -297K on the clock as I type this. Last edited by i-osprey; 06-24-2009 at 08:03 AM. |
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Excellent! Someone replaced that timing chain - there's no way it would read 0 degrees otherwise. Typical stretch is 2-3° after 50-100kmi or so. Regardless, that's a nice bonus, you don't have to touch the chain.
Oil leak: You will have to clean that mess up as best you can... engine cleaner, carb cleaner, rags, paper towels, and elbow grease. It's a nasty job but you have to clean it up to pinpoint the leak source. My money is on the front crank seal as the likely culprit. I had to change mine at 150kmi, it leaked like a sieve. Pics before and after. It's bone dry now. The seal is cheap but you need a flywheel lock tool for this job ($140 or so, IIRC, don't think anyone has a rental available). But first figure out if that's the problem. The oil dipstick tube does not have a seal, it is a very tight press-fit into the timing cover. The oil pan is a nightmare to R&R with the engine in the car, and it's not likely to be the source of your leak... oil doesn't usually flow upward. |
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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#80
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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I did use a torque wrench at the proper NM setting, when I reassembled the DV. I still have a trembling miss, every 2-3 seconds when the car is cold, and since I put the old injectors back in, I've got one, maybe two that are Nailing really hard. I'm building my own nozzle pop tester, and have most of the bits, but now I need to buy a monarch nozzle set with the shims. I found Monarchs website, but it doesn't look like they sell to the public over the web. Does anyone know of a E-tailer that sells monarch's nozzles and shim sets (besides our friend at M E R C E D E S S O U R C E?)
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread Last edited by rocketboy52; 07-01-2009 at 04:20 AM. |
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Right after cooling issues, leaking crank seal, rough engine running, and stiff shifting tranny... Then I'll fix the stop seal, and the IP side plate seal.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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So I haven't been driving my car, as I was hoping some parts and tools that I ordered would come in. Telephone salesmen told me a I should get the parts by last Wed, but here it is a week later and no parts or tools. he said that because he essentially was having a dealer drop ship the parts, it would take a day or two longer then typical. Well its a week plus, lets hope the parts show up
Also, while fooling with my water pump, I managed to bolt everything back up with a leak, so I'll have to put a real gasket in there, and also assmeble the Pump housing on the bench, per FSM instructions. Here is my make shift breather hose and temporary plastic elbow replacement. Let me know what you think
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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One more question, How much oil should be coming through the breather line? My intake manifold is totally COVERED in oil sludge. From a few other posts I have read, this sounds like it is normal? I don't see why one would want motor oil all through the intake. With out my breather collector tub on, before my frankenstien temp fix, a good bit of oil was all over the place, is this normal?
GSXR, when you did the waste gate mod to remove the ERG stuff, did you also change this breather tube to keep engine oil out of the intake? What did you do with the breather port then, some after market breathing cap perhaps? Got any pics?
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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But no, I did not re-route the PCV tube, it still feeds into the intake on my cars... |
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Monark Injector Nozzles
Two different board members offer R+R (With Pop Testing and Balancing) With
NEW MONARK Injector Nozzles.(At Very reasonable prices!) C Sean Watts AND bgkast
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'84 300SD sold 124.128 |
#89
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I'll try bgkast, but I wanted to shim and test them myself if I can find a source for the nozzles and shims. I looking for a place that sells the shim set and the nozzle sets. If its just a not possible to order them via the web, then I guess I would see if I could get them done by someone.
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1990 300D 2.5 Turbo 150k miles 1999 F250 7.3L Powerstroke 225k miles 22mpg Intro Thread |
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W124.128 hard fuel lines
@rocketboy52
broken metal fuel lines from IP to injectors left me stranded twice. In one locaction I found somebody who brazed the line and I was able to drive home. The second time I was close to forklift service place and they found a suitable line for me, much thicker than the one from MB. Then my trusted mechanic told me to take the leaky line off, hammer the damaged end flat and bend it over and re-install, cover injector with plastic or something. Car will get you home. Carry now a couple of spare hard lines in my trunk and suitable wrench. Cheers |
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