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#1
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First pass door would not lock, then all doors, now car will not turn off!
1979 300D.
My small vacuum leak has now gotten out of hand. Its my fault for not fixing it sooner. My question is, how do I take my pass. door apart, and once it is apart, what am I looking for? The first symptom was that when I engaged the drivers door lock to lock all doors, all would lock except the passenger. I would manually lock it. When I unlock all of them with the drivers door lock, all would unlock. Now the only door that locks is the drivers, and the car will not turn off when I turn the ignition off. I have to pop the hood and pull up on the throttle linkage to the IP. Any help is greatly appreciated.
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Marty Watts - Concord, NH 1979 300D NA - Maple Yellow - Palomino MB Tex |
#2
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Disconnect the yellow vacuum line under the hood where it enters the firewall and plug the front end. (keep golf tees in your glove compartment for this purpose) All will be well, but you'll have to unlock/lock your doors manually. Fix the door system leak(s) at your leisure.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#3
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This will allow me to turn the car off?...(so I pass inspection this month
Just plug the yellow vac line with a golf tee? Any more detail on the passenger door leak? Once I get it apart, what do I look for? I have a handheld mityvac, but no idea how to really use it.
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Marty Watts - Concord, NH 1979 300D NA - Maple Yellow - Palomino MB Tex |
#4
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I am not sure about a 79 SD, but my 86 SDL has a manual engine shut off valve inside the engine compartment. Look for a lever that says "Stop" or something to that effect.
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86 300 SDL - Vesuvius 96 SL 500 Assumption is the mother of all screw ups. Do not go gentle into that good night. Rage, rage against the dying of the light. - Dylan Thomas All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing - Edmund Burke |
#5
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Mine has that too. That is what I have been currently using to shut the car off. But when i go for inspection, I doubt that will fly. I'll start with plugging the yellow vac line, and then take the door apart.
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Marty Watts - Concord, NH 1979 300D NA - Maple Yellow - Palomino MB Tex |
#6
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You may want to just unplug the line in front of the yellow check valve and plug that line.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#7
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Quote:
But based on your description, it sounds like removing the door licks from you vacuum circuit will restore engine shut off function.
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Current Mercedes 1979 maple yellow 240D 4-speed Gone and fondly remembered: 1980 orient red 240D 4-speed Gone and NOT fondly remembered: 1982 Chna Blue 300TD Other car in the stable: 2013 VW Jetta Sportwagen TDI / 6-speed MT |
#8
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Popped the hood. Can't find the yellow vac line.
I got up under the steering wheel, and can see a yellow, and a yellow/brown line coming thru the firewall into the cabin...but on the engine side, the lines are so dirty, I can't find the right one. I took the passenger door apart, where the leak first started, and I have a Yellow/red and yellow/green line going to the dual pod thing that controls the door locks. Can I plug one of these lines here? Which one? Could the dual pod thing that controls the locks be leaking too...not the line? The two pods fill and empty with air when I pull on the metal rod connecting to the door. Also, when plugging the line, should I be removing the line from the rubber connecting sleeve, or removing the sleeve with the line still in tact and plugging that? All I am trying to do here is pass inspection, so I can fix this problem correctly later...so having the ignition turn the car off is all I'm trying to achieve at this point. I want to get this out of the way so I can fix my exhaust next. Are the window switches a requirement for passing inspection? Add one more thing to the list if it is....ugh.
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Marty Watts - Concord, NH 1979 300D NA - Maple Yellow - Palomino MB Tex |
#9
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buy a hand held vacuum pump at Autozone or whatever. I would get a nice metal one if you can find it, you need one for this car, thern start pulling a vacuum on your lines until you find the one that leaks, fix or plug it. since you have the door apart pull a vacuum on the two sides of the actuator. if the actuator is bad, replace it or plug the line, if it is not then you have a cracked hard line. you will need to trace it back under the plastic tracks on the floor
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale 2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold 2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably) 1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast) 1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style) 2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails) |
#10
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simplest solution to pass inspection is to clean the lines under the hood with some solvent like mineral spirits. The yellow line should be obvious with a little cleaning to the lines just right of the brake booster kind of above the oil filter.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#11
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Quote:
I used a new connector with one fewer openings.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#12
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I think the yellow/brown line you found is for the vacuum shutoff valve on the IP.
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
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