I saw one on Northern tools site for $49. anyone know if someplace rents them and sells flush? or is there another online source? can you make a flush gun from something else? I was thinking something like a clean new sandblast nozzle and a jar?

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

You don't need a flush gun; it's not worth the money for DIY use. Just pour the flushing fluid into the component and blow it out with compressed air.

A typical parts store should sell the fluid.

Fill the part with flushing fluid, shake it around, and blow it out with compressed air. Save the fluid and flush with it again, adding new fluid as necessary, and discard the used stuff when it gets too nasty.

That will work better than the $49 Northern Tool special. Be sure to purge all of the flushing agent with lots of dry air.

AutoZo** place loans one free. Just leave a deposit.

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daw_two
Germantown, TN

Links:
Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior
No longer selling Cluster Needles Paint
No longer selling New Old Stock (NOS) parts

Past:
3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda"
04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben"
& many more

Sure, but it's not worth using.

is it normal to remove coils? seems like a gun would be needed to get the evap and condensor coils without removing them

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

You can flush the evaporator in place by connecting hoses to it. The cheap flush gun really isn't worth using, because you can still do a better job by pouring fluid into one of the hoses and following it with compressed air.

I would definitely remove the condenser to flush it. Unless it is a parallel-flow condenser, and then I would highly recommend just buying a new one.

I just used some hose and a (very clean) dish soap bottle filled with flush solvent to flush out my A/C system. You can put solvent in the hose and blow it into heat exchangers with compressed air that way. No need for a flush gun, or nylog, just coat O-rings in mineral oil... that is what the local A/C shop in business for 50 years told me.

I suppose you could remove the condenser and powerwash it/ paint it with evaporator conductive paint. If you strip out the top brass nuts on the expansion valve, you can clean the evaporator coils when you remove the evaporator box for a new one

Pretty sure CarQuest or NAPA has good flush solvents in quarts, not in a spray can. 2 quarts were enough to flush everything out well for me, got those for $9/quart from my local A/C shop.

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1980 240d
1999 SL500

To avoid having to access the evaporator from inside the car, drill out the bore of the old expansion valve, then reinstall it. Then you can flush the evaporator from under the hood and avoid having the flush mess up your car's interior.

now that sounds like a great idea. can you do a quick text step by step to drill out the expansion valve?

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

By the time you remove the expansion valve, drill it out , put it back in, flush the system, remove the expansion valve again, replace it with a good one. you can just remove the valve and flush with hoses.
Attach a hose to the in and out with pipe clamps, pour mineral spirits in (No need for "flush fluid") and blow it through with compressed air.
No need to remove the condenser either, if it's the original one. Disconnect compressor and put a bag over it to protect it. Remove the receiver/dryer and flush with your hoses again from under the hood.

Don't make this harder than it is.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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I own one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97014 and fine it useful for a lot of things. Seems like it would do a fine job of blowing solvent through the A/C system.

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'82 300D - Light Ivory, 2nd Owner (Back in the wind April 2013!)

'95 E300D - White, grey interior. (Suffering from stuck/broken glow plugs)

Deuteronomy 22:4-
"Thou shalt not see thy brother's ass or his ox fall down by the way, and hide thyself from them: thou shalt surely help him to lift them up again."

I used a borrowed flush gun...thanks again Jummy! And it worked really well for me. I used methanol as the flush agent, thanks to advice from an old school A/C guy. Mthanol was $5 per gallon, I bought two, but ended up using 3/4 of a gallon. My system was "converted" to R134a, the fist compressor blew a front seal. Rebuilt compressor and drier added and charged w/R134a. Leak noted a few weeks later, and dye was added. Leak found with catastophic high pressure line failure. It was spliced! High pressure line was rebuilt by local hydraulic hose builder for $20. Remanned compressor had a failed clutch, just after the warranty expired. So that lead to a new compressor, not remanned, new drier again, new expansion valve, new temp switch, new high/low pressure cut off switch--since Freeze 12 is a blend of 134a and something else, new expansion valve, and new o-rings.


It as been almost 3 summer seasons now, and the A/C is still working well with Freeze-12.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Take the expansion valve out - take a drill and correct size bit and drill through the small side - you'll figure it out when you get the e-valve off. Its fairly soft metal - be carefull of the threads on the valve - reinstall drilled out e-valve. tighten down all four connectors - just hand tight will work. stuff a rag around valve to be safe. Flush and flush and flush - It works really well.

Now I know that sounds simple - the reality is it took me 30 minutes to get the nuts lined up with the valve and not cross thread it. Plus you get the pleasure of doing it twice - to put the new e-valve on.. on the 126 its a real PITA... Also hang the compressor hose ends INSIDE a bucket - other wise you'll spew the flush and oil everywhere..

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Thomas

2003 Jetta TDi
1983 300SD
1999 Ford Contour - died - Oil pump
1998 Chevy Blazer - money pit
1997 Toyota Corolla - wrecked
1983 Honda Civic - still on the road
1980 Datsun 310 - long dead
1976 Ford Granada - my 1st car - best A/C ever


"Listen, strange women lyin' in ponds distributin' swords is no basis for a system of government. Supreme executive power derives from a mandate from the masses, not from some farcical aquatic ceremony."

so 2 flush alternatives on this thread
mineral spirits
methanol

can I get a vote which is better? or should I stick to commercial AC flush?

I will most likely be putting in Freeze-12 as I have already purchased 6 cans and the kit to change it over. I was going to use R12 but I dont have the kit to fill it from the can and I cant seem to find any local

__________________

1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)