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  #16  
Old 06-26-2009, 12:14 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutzTD View Post
so 2 flush alternatives on this thread
mineral spirits
methanol

can I get a vote which is better? or should I stick to commercial AC flush?

I will most likely be putting in Freeze-12 as I have already purchased 6 cans and the kit to change it over. I was going to use R12 but I dont have the kit to fill it from the can and I cant seem to find any local
I have a side piercing dispenser that fits the cans...oil charge, R12/Freeze-12, 134a, through the guages. I left the 134A quick connects on the car, but have the Freeze 12 sticker. Since my car does not have the Barrier hoses, I do have to add Freeze-12 yearly. About 1/2 a can. The other half goes in the Nissan Truck. It has been on Freeze-12 for the past 7 years.

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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #17  
Old 06-26-2009, 12:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
I have a side piercing dispenser that fits the cans...oil charge, R12/Freeze-12, 134a, through the guages. I left the 134A quick connects on the car, but have the Freeze 12 sticker. Since my car does not have the Barrier hoses, I do have to add Freeze-12 yearly. About 1/2 a can. The other half goes in the Nissan Truck. It has been on Freeze-12 for the past 7 years.

so one of the arguements I have heard about freeze-12 is that it leaks portions of the mix faster and screws up the ratio, eventually a loss of performance from haveing an incorrect mix. are you seeing this issue with a 1/2 can per year leak? I was thinking if it leaks it needs fixed, and if not then there is no mix issue, so why not use the freeze-12?

can you shoot a picture of your side peircer attached to the guages? dont you loose al lot of the refrig in the hoses? I was thinking the long hoses on my guage set would be a big waste
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2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
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  #18  
Old 06-26-2009, 01:10 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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I'll have to take the pic at home, since I am at work now. I'm sure there is freon loss due to the longer hoses, but if your presures are correct, it's not a big deal in the grand scheme of things.

I have not noticed a degradation of cooling capacity, and I do not know what leaks and what stays. When the outlaw 134a, I'm sure there will be something else for us all to squabble over, freon wise...
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70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #19  
Old 06-26-2009, 01:36 PM
Registered Diesel Burner
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Northern Virginia
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I bought the flush gun kit for $30 on EBay - do a search and you should see them.

At the same time I also bought a quart of FJC flush solution on EBay. After getting into the job, it was obvious that more than a quart would be required. In searching around some I found the best price for what I wanted (gallon size) was on Amazon. I used the quart just to clean out the compressor manifold lines (short line to condensor and half-line towards evaporator valve). Don't forget that there is an O-ring near the brake booster (on the 300SD) where the manifold line joins with another short line into the evaporator - if you are replacing O-rings this is a good one to get.

A gallon is probably good to flush a system that does not have debris inside (from a failed compressor) and is marginal if you are changing refrigerants (and thus the oil type).

Paying $30 for a convenient way to inject flush solution is worth it to me. The pressurized gun allows me to flush solution UPHILL and thus fully saturate the hose being flushed. When you flush downhill you might not fully flush the upper 1/2 to 1/3 of the flat sections of hose.

Ken300D
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  #20  
Old 06-26-2009, 01:43 PM
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so right now I am leaning toward this solution.

harbour freight gun $5



mineral spirit flush (however many gallons it takes to get it all clean

final flush with a quart of Dura II from NAPA

I also have Ester oil to flush the compressor
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #21  
Old 06-26-2009, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannym View Post
By the time you remove the expansion valve, drill it out , put it back in, flush the system, remove the expansion valve again, replace it with a good one. you can just remove the valve and flush with hoses.
Don't make this harder than it is.

Danny
Three key points:

- Anyone who is "overhauling" their system and leaving their old expansion valve in service is making a mistake.

- The few minutes it takes to drill out the old expansion valve and reinstall it is well worth the effort. Unless you like flushing fluid all over your carpet and upholstry.

- The best way to do a job isn't always the easiest way.
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  #22  
Old 06-26-2009, 02:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutzTD View Post
so 2 flush alternatives on this thread
mineral spirits
methanol

can I get a vote which is better? or should I stick to commercial AC flush?
So...you want to waste money on a flush gun and cheap out on the flush fluid.
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  #23  
Old 06-26-2009, 02:49 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
Three key points:

- Anyone who is "overhauling" their system and leaving their old expansion valve in service is making a mistake.

- The few minutes it takes to drill out the old expansion valve and reinstall it is well worth the effort. Unless you like flushing fluid all over your carpet and upholstry.

- The best way to do a job isn't always the easiest way.
I removed the carpet panels and hooked up some drain hose to the evap fittings. This was before I knew of the drill out the exp valve trick. I like that idea. Thanks Tango!
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #24  
Old 06-26-2009, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007 View Post
So...you want to waste money on a flush gun and cheap out on the flush fluid.

well, I got a $5.99 flush gun and the only flush fluid that I can find for this weekend is NAPA $34/qt . so yes I am going to cheap out on the flush fluid. I bought one qt to use as a final flush but I dont want to spend $200 on flush
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #25  
Old 06-26-2009, 03:10 PM
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one more question.

what direction is correct for each line?
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #26  
Old 06-26-2009, 03:20 PM
daw_two's Avatar
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Location: Germantown, TN
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutzTD View Post
one more question.

what direction is correct for each line?

DOWN is the perfered direction when speaking of certain fixtures in the bathroom. I'd say it doesn't matter which direction you flush as long as you flush all the way "thru" and get all the material out.
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  #27  
Old 06-26-2009, 03:21 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
mmmmmm Diesel...
 
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Royse City Tx
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On the metal lines it really does not matter, but the rubber might be different story. Low side is suction side, high side is discharge side, Small lines flow to the evaporator from the compressor and condensor.

Like this...Compressor to Condensor, then to drier, then to exp valve, through evap, back to exp valve, then to compressor.

It probably does not matter the flow of flush, unless there are metal shards in the rubber lines.
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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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  #28  
Old 06-26-2009, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lutzTD View Post
well, I got a $5.99 flush gun and the only flush fluid that I can find for this weekend is NAPA $34/qt . so yes I am going to cheap out on the flush fluid. I bought one qt to use as a final flush but I dont want to spend $200 on flush
I can do two cars with one of these:
https://www.ackits.com/pc/200011/Flush/200011+-+Hecat+Safe+Flush+%28.5+Gallon%29
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  #29  
Old 06-26-2009, 04:24 PM
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answer

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97014

Engine Cleaning Gun


The fast easy way to clean dirt, grease, grime, salt, mud, and more! Can be used with a variety of solvents. An essential tool for farmers, truckers, contractors, shops, and garages. Includes 4 foot solvent suction hose with built-in solution strainer.


Lightweight and easy to handle
Recommended air pressure: 60 PSI
Air consumption: 3 CFM @ 60 PSI

Air inlet: 1/4''-18 NPT; Overall dimensions: 3" L x 1-1/16" W x 15" H



ITEM 97014-2VGA

$5.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97014





Have a great day
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  #30  
Old 06-26-2009, 06:21 PM
LarryBible
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rrgrassi View Post
I have a side piercing dispenser that fits the cans...oil charge, R12/Freeze-12, 134a, through the guages. I left the 134A quick connects on the car, but have the Freeze 12 sticker. Since my car does not have the Barrier hoses, I do have to add Freeze-12 yearly. About 1/2 a can. The other half goes in the Nissan Truck. It has been on Freeze-12 for the past 7 years.
I think that it is a STUPID law, and I am not trying to be critical in any way. What refrigerant you use and how you use it SHOULD be totally up to you, although I am not in agreement with your choices.

I am only posting here to point out that you are publicly posting information about your breaking of Federal Law.

You are required by law to have the CORRECT fittings and sticker for the refrigerant in the vehicle.

Again, this should be your business and as far as I'm concerned it is, but I just didn't want to ignore this in the event that you were not aware. I wouldn't want any of my MShop brothers to get into trouble.

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