where to buy cheapest AC flush gun and flush - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

lutzTD · #1 06-26-2009, 01:43 PM

so right now I am leaning toward this solution.

harbour freight gun $5

mineral spirit flush (however many gallons it takes to get it all clean

final flush with a quart of Dura II from NAPA

I also have Ester oil to flush the compressor

rrgrassi · #2 06-26-2009, 03:21 PM

On the metal lines it really does not matter, but the rubber might be different story. Low side is suction side, high side is discharge side, Small lines flow to the evaporator from the compressor and condensor.

Like this...Compressor to Condensor, then to drier, then to exp valve, through evap, back to exp valve, then to compressor.

It probably does not matter the flow of flush, unless there are metal shards in the rubber lines.

whunter · #3 06-26-2009, 04:24 PM

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97014

Engine Cleaning Gun

The fast easy way to clean dirt, grease, grime, salt, mud, and more! Can be used with a variety of solvents. An essential tool for farmers, truckers, contractors, shops, and garages. Includes 4 foot solvent suction hose with built-in solution strainer.

Lightweight and easy to handle
Recommended air pressure: 60 PSI
Air consumption: 3 CFM @ 60 PSI

Air inlet: 1/4''-18 NPT; Overall dimensions: 3" L x 1-1/16" W x 15" H

ITEM 97014-2VGA

$5.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97014

Have a great day

lutzTD · #4 06-26-2009, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97014

Engine Cleaning Gun

The fast easy way to clean dirt, grease, grime, salt, mud, and more! Can be used with a variety of solvents. An essential tool for farmers, truckers, contractors, shops, and garages. Includes 4 foot solvent suction hose with built-in solution strainer.

Lightweight and easy to handle
Recommended air pressure: 60 PSI
Air consumption: 3 CFM @ 60 PSI

Air inlet: 1/4''-18 NPT; Overall dimensions: 3" L x 1-1/16" W x 15" H

ITEM 97014-2VGA

$5.99
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=97014

Have a great day

got one today, they tried to charge me 7.99, I showed them the ad I printed from the online store. whenever I go there I bring prints of the price online, it is always cheaper online. they get my money anyway, I got a nice set of aluminum AC fitting wrenches.

mobetta · #5 06-29-2009, 02:14 PM

I used a garden sprayer which I already own. this will push a lot of fluid thru rather quickly.

then lots of compressed air.

no smoking allowed,do at your own risk, etc........

kingdoc1 · #6 06-29-2009, 08:06 PM

I have always used Isopropyl Alcohol when flushing A/C sytems. Some of the A/C flush products are expensive and are difficult to remove from the system completely. Alcohol is cheap , cleans well, and any residual amount left in the system will evaporate when you pull a vacuum on the system.

Matt L · #7 06-29-2009, 09:22 PM

I used one of these:

http://hecat-inc.com/flush_gun.htm

It sends pulses of fluid, separated by compressed air. It's a violent action, which got the system clean with just a few passes of fluid.

If you buy flush fluid by the gallon, it costs about $40-45. You use it instead of lacquer thinner because it won't harm your paint or the rubber parts in your system, and it is non-toxic.

leathermang · #8 06-30-2009, 01:13 AM

Violating the TxValve to use as a hooking up point is the method prescribed in the MB Factory Shop AC manual.
That manual also says which direction to flush the lines.
The metal manifold which attaches to the compressor is supposed to be renewed because they think it can not be cleaned properly.
I really would not take a chance on guessing as to which fluid will clean properly and NOT deteriorate the insides of the AC lines... seems like an unnecessary chance to take.

lutzTD · #9 06-30-2009, 08:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Violating the TxValve to use as a hooking up point is the method prescribed in the MB Factory Shop AC manual.
That manual also says which direction to flush the lines.
The metal manifold which attaches to the compressor is supposed to be renewed because they think it can not be cleaned properly.
I really would not take a chance on guessing as to which fluid will clean properly and NOT deteriorate the insides of the AC lines... seems like an unnecessary chance to take.

thats weird, of all the lines I would have thought the metal manifold is the one that would clean the best..... Anyway, the manual is geared toward fixing in any situation. Maybe a million miler would need all new parts, but mine was working fine last year and only stopped because the PO's mechanic didnt mount the compressor right, breaking the bolts and eventuall it broke the seal and leaked freon. It was a pretty clean system, but even with that the flush cleaned out a lot of black oil. From what Ive read whatever I did wrong will show up in longevity losses so I am keeping my fingers crossed, it is really hot here.

leathermang · #10 06-30-2009, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lutzTD

Maybe a million miler would need all new parts,

Actually I assumed it was directed towards any ' black death ' type situation and that although they did not mention the word ' screen' or ' filter' that that metal manifold may have one which is not able to be cleaned if contaminated with certain size or types of material.

lutzTD · #11 06-30-2009, 09:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leathermang

Actually I assumed it was directed towards any ' black death ' type situation and that although they did not mention the word ' screen' or ' filter' that that metal manifold may have one which is not able to be cleaned if contaminated with certain size or types of material.

Oh I never thought of a screen in there. anyone know for sure? I flushed those hoses in both directions since they were seperate.

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