No need to compress the springs ... jack up the front of the car, then place a support under the lower control arm. Replace the torsion bar bushings ... you have to take them off to remove the UCA anyway, and they're really cheap. Check your torsion bar for rust at the tip, clean it up if necessary. The UCA bolt can be a bear ... ask me how I know. You might want to plan on replacing that, too, because it may be corroded to the old bushings. I had to sawzall mine out. Do get an alignment afterwards.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Thanks Bohdi and all those who contributed.
I was originally thinking of replacing the L and the R. I might only do the L due to the fact that I know it is bad.

It is s Southern Car from SC and is now in TN. No rust at all. None

I dunno we will see what I buy when I order the parts. I suppose it depends on what kind of mood I am in at the time.

I will not do an alignment if I only replace the UCA and the bushing on the sway bar. Is this the correct thing to do??

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http://www.libertyagrifuels.com
1984 300D Turbo
1980 300SD Sold
1983 300TD Sold
Dagger 16 ft. Legend Canoe (for the weekends)
Marin Northside Trail Mtn. Bike

I would get an alignment if the UCA is replaced, simply because the UCA bushing that are in there now may be deformed if they're old, which would mean new, healthy bushings might push it out of alignment a little. Alignment is pretty sensitive. Others may have different opinions; I'm not really the expert here. But, that would be my advice.

Make sure you order two torsion bar bushings for one side ... there is one on either side of the UCA where it connects to the torsion bar. I don't see any problem with only replacing one UCA and not the other, if the other looks good. When I bought my 240D, the driver's side looked perfect. The passenger side looked like this:

I replaced the bad one and all seems to be well in the UCA department.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Wow.
I can't believe the entire thing didnt break.
Yeah I suppose you are right about the alignment. I will take it in if that is what you think Bohdi. Dang, another $40. Well I guess it beats payments.

__________________
http://www.libertyagrifuels.com
1984 300D Turbo
1980 300SD Sold
1983 300TD Sold
Dagger 16 ft. Legend Canoe (for the weekends)
Marin Northside Trail Mtn. Bike

The UCA bushings start to "sag" from day one, causing the camber to shift in the negative direction. Over the years, alignments will correct for this, until the limits of camber adjustment are exceeded. When you replace the UCA, the camber will likely be excessively positive (tire leans outboard at the top), since past alignments have "adjusted out" the negative drift typical of bushing wear.

Unless your two UCA's have a different history, I would replace both at the same time. It is not realistic to expect one to be in significantly better condition than the other.

No, if you replace the whole thing you'll need an alignment. Those two rubber OUTER bushings by themselves are a different story.

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83 SD

84 CD