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  #1  
Old 07-15-2009, 05:19 PM
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cluth slave cylinder rod alignment

any trick to this? my 4spd grenaded yesterday. I swapped in a spare 4spd but the clutch isnt working. I tried to save time by not breaking the hydraulic line on the slave and just transferred it intact to the new transmission. now I pump the clutch it got real hard and now wont move, like mayber the rod missed the clutch fork. is there a trick to getting the floppy rod to engage into the fork in this blind assembly?

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Old 07-15-2009, 07:36 PM
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nope, "nothing but to do but to do it" -Ronnie Coleman
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Old 07-15-2009, 09:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
nope, "nothing but to do but to do it" -Ronnie Coleman

AND... make sure the fork doesnt rotate off the ball when you mount the trans...
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #4  
Old 07-16-2009, 12:20 AM
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You might have to remove the trans and take peek to see if everything is in its place.
If the rod didn`t line up with the fork and when you pushed in the peddle, maybe the rod popped out of the slave?
Does the clutch peddle stay down or come back up?

OH go ahead and disconnect the hyd line, I need to follow along with the
frustrations of getting it bled by someone else. Then I won`t feel so bad
with all my frustrations doing mine . Just kidding..

Charlie
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Old 07-16-2009, 07:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charmalu View Post
You might have to remove the trans and take peek to see if everything is in its place.
If the rod didn`t line up with the fork and when you pushed in the peddle, maybe the rod popped out of the slave?
Does the clutch peddle stay down or come back up?

OH go ahead and disconnect the hyd line, I need to follow along with the
frustrations of getting it bled by someone else. Then I won`t feel so bad
with all my frustrations doing mine . Just kidding..

Charlie
yeh, I had it all together and ready to fill the trans with fluid, pushed the clutch and it went to the floor, pushed again it got real hard. I removed everything again, dropped the trans and sure enough the fork had rotated off of the ball stud. the slave rod was all the way out but still attached, I had to break the system though to get the slave piston back in. with that done and put back togther of course it lined right up. now I will need to bleed the clutch. I will try again with the brake to clutch blead system, didnt have much luck with it last time. to be sure, these get automatic fluid right? my last one grenaded the 3-4 gear set and it was full of auto fluid.
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #6  
Old 07-16-2009, 08:06 AM
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Type F or 10w30.
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  #7  
Old 07-16-2009, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
Type F or 10w30.

cool thanx, the new replacement trans (history unknown) I have is seeping gear oil. I think Ill just put in some synthetic 10w30
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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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  #8  
Old 07-16-2009, 09:38 AM
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As for the fork, just make sure that the clip is around the ball, that's all you can do. For Bleeding, use only the clutch pedal, it works much better. First, pump the clutch with or without the slave bleed screw open (it works either way, I did it with it open until I saw fluid dripping out), then have an assistant depress the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleed screw and have then release the pedal, do this maybe 10-20 times.

and winmutt, will the wrong auto fluid not lubricate properly?
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  #9  
Old 07-16-2009, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
As for the fork, just make sure that the clip is around the ball, that's all you can do. For Bleeding, use only the clutch pedal, it works much better. First, pump the clutch with or without the slave bleed screw open (it works either way, I did it with it open until I saw fluid dripping out), then have an assistant depress the clutch pedal while you open and close the bleed screw and have then release the pedal, do this maybe 10-20 times.

and winmutt, will the wrong auto fluid not lubricate properly?
the fork popped off the first time, the second time I was watching it closer. I dont know the history of this trans or the one before so I have no idea if it was lubrication, the awesome HP of my turbo 300 , or the thing was just ready to go. it broke while I was passing a car and shifted to third, but I was able to limp home rather noisily in 1st and 2nd. another month I would have bee ready to put in the 5spd, so this one is just temporary

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)
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