I finished my rear wheel bearings. The passenger side went well, the end play checked out perfectly on the dial indicator, and it rolls smooth. Then I did the same thing on the drivers side. The end play checks out perfectly on the dial indicator, but when I go to roll it around it has a stiff spot. I've got about 3/4 of the rotation is smooth, but the last 1/4 of the turn requires a bit of force.

The drivers side was the side that went out in the first place. Also, the stiff spot seems to be in the same place. If something was out of round or if it were overtightened, then you would think it would drag all the time.

Any Ideas?

Thanks

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Brakes dragging on a warped rotor?

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

No brakes installed. just the hub. no axles are installed ether.

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Anything bent like part of the hub, from say a prior accident incurred by the PO?

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

I don't think so. The car is straight, I've had the car for 7 years now, and before that the owner was my dad and before that my grandmother. I haven't had any problems with the wheel till about a month ago when I was noticing an odd wobble and low speed. when i look the wheel off it spun good, but when i went to take the hub out it was locked in there and i had to soak it in WD40 before it cam out with the slide hammer. the inner bearing looked like it had see some high heat, but wasn't damaged. so i just changed all the bearing.

the whole thing is kind of odd because it wasn't really a problem it was more of an annoyance with the low speed wobble. the only thing i can think of that might have caused the bearing to fail is the CV axle on that side did die about 2 years ago, and it was banging pretty bad. but aside from that, that wheel bearing hasn't seen any more ware then the passenger side.

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Anyone else have any ideas? I'm debating if I should just run it or if I should take it apart again? Taking it apart again would involve getting the tools again and since I borrowed them its not that easy.

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My 81 had a slightly bent rim that caused a wobble.

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1981 240D 143k 4 spd manual -SOLD

2004 VW Jetta TDI 5 speed 300k -still driven daily

Did you change the race with the bearings? I found a damaged race in my Nissan Truck, that my daughter had the wreck in. No body damage, butthe right rear wheel was hit, resultinga bent axle, and a damage bearing race, that I did not notice until I put the axle in and did a test spin with the the truck on stands, engine running, tranny engaged. The driver side was nice and smoth, the passenger side vibrated like crazy.

I disassembled everything, and had to have the bearing pressed out, new one pressed on, and I changed the race. That is when I saww that damamge, and could feel the roughness with the old bearing and race removed. Visually the bearing looked fine. Since the race was in a recessed area, I could not see the damage until I removed the race.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

yep I did the complete bearing replacement per the DIY. http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W123RearWheelBearings

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Hello. How did you get the outer wheel seal on? Mine will not go on for anything?

did you get the old one off? I know that sounds like a stupid question, but mine were so dirty, I looked at it for at least 10 min and I couldn't see the transition to from the hub to the seal.

I used a small pry bar and hooked it inside the old one and removed it. then I cleaned everything with brake cleaner and a rag, then placed the new seal over the hub, and pushed it slightly so it stuck there, then used a piece of 2x6 I had laying around and placed it over the seal and tapped it with a small ball peen hammer in the middle of the wood so it would push it on evenly.

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Have you checked the half shaft that goes to that side? You may have a bearing cage binding up a bit.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

I don't have the half shaft installed, do you think installing it would make a difference? I'm afraid that something like bearing cage binding up is my problem, but I'm not sure how to fix it without taking it apart again.

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