Lower Ball Joint replacement...done! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

tangofox007 · #16 08-05-2009, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kmaysob

you mean it was welded in?

did the new one fit proper?

It probably fit a bit loose after the mechanic wallowed out the hole trying to install the joint with a generic press.

tangofox007 · #17 08-05-2009, 09:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Billybob

I've seen this statement posted a number of times, I don't suppose that anyone has ever actually observed anyone accomplishing this procedure and can provide any description of what tools would make this possible and how such tools would be used.

Do a search for "hydraulic ball joint extractor."

With the right equipment, a LBJ replacement on a W123 can be a 10 minute evolution.

Brian Carlton · #18 08-05-2009, 09:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by toomany MBZ

As you may know, removing the spindle requires a bearing set with a dial caliper upon re-install. The amount of time involved would surely run more than the $100 I was charged.

If the implication is that the rotor and hub remained in place during this procedure, I'd be even more skeptical than BillyBob. There is just insufficient space for any tools in there.

vipercrazy · #19 08-05-2009, 09:28 AM

a diy if anyone cares:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1453715-diy-w123-lower-ball-joints.html

Brian Carlton · #20 08-05-2009, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipercrazy

a diy if anyone cares:

http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w123-e-ce-d-cd-td/1453715-diy-w123-lower-ball-joints.html

"ok now you should have the spindle off the car, cover the wheel bearing part with a rag or two to protect it and then unless you have a hell of a torch and bench vise, bring it to a indy shop, ask if they have the tools to do a mercedes ball joint. if you have both out label which side goes where."

rrgrassi · #21 08-05-2009, 10:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hit Man X

PM me next time, I live close and have the heavy as hell OE tool for them.

I now know this for next time...Thanks!

vipercrazy · #22 08-05-2009, 11:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

"ok now you should have the spindle off the car, cover the wheel bearing part with a rag or two to protect it and then unless you have a hell of a torch and bench vise, bring it to a indy shop, ask if they have the tools to do a mercedes ball joint. if you have both out label which side goes where."

yea i didnt have any luck fitting the press on or a big enough vise, but atleast the rest is covered. i just hope it saves a couple people from not trying it themselves.

rrgrassi · #23 08-05-2009, 02:56 PM

If I had the proper tool, the job would not have been bad. I plan on buying the proper tool for next time, or when I buy another w123 or a w126.

The disassembly went really fast. BFH and a 2 inch wide piece of stainless steel rod took the ball joints out quickly. Suspension work is not too bad in my opinion. It's the springs that you have to be careful of.

Brian Carlton · #24 08-05-2009, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

The disassembly went really fast. BFH and a 2 inch wide piece of stainless steel rod took the ball joints out quickly. Suspension work is not too bad in my opinion. It's the springs that you have to be careful of.

I started on the right side of the SD at noon.

Removed wheel, caliper, rotor, shock, spring, inner wheel bearing, lower ball joint connection, upper ball joint connection, LCA, guide rod, and bearing bracket (with guide rod mount installed).

Done by 2:15 p.m. and I work slow. The benefits of learning on the left side have paid off.

rrgrassi · #25 08-05-2009, 03:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I started on the right side of the SD at noon.

Removed wheel, caliper, rotor, shock, spring, inner wheel bearing, lower ball joint connection, upper ball joint connection, LCA, guide rod, and bearing bracket (with guide rod mount installed).

Done by 2:15 p.m. and I work slow. The benefits of learning on the left side have paid off.

I have not had the need for guide rods or LCA bushings...yet.

Learning on one side makes for great learning curve.

Brian, that is good timing. You also had the needed tools as well, I am sure.

Brian Carlton · #26 08-05-2009, 03:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

I have not had the need for guide rods or LCA bushings...yet.

Learning on one side makes for great learning curve.

Brian, that is good timing. You also had the needed tools as well, I am sure.

I did the LCA bushing on the left side, but realized that it wasn't required. I won't be doing the right side.

The guide rod mounts were original, and questionable. Couldn't quite pin down the reason that the SD would pull on braking, so they get changed on principle. I'll also use the opportunity to change the bearing bracket bushings, although some think they last the life of the vehicle.

Yep, I did have all the tools, with the exception of the puller for the wheel bearing seal. That little, miserable job took nearly 30 minutes.

rrgrassi · #27 08-05-2009, 03:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

I did the LCA bushing on the left side, but realized that it wasn't required. I won't be doing the right side.

The guide rod mounts were original, and questionable. Couldn't quite pin down the reason that the SD would pull on braking, so they get changed on principle. I'll also use the opportunity to change the bearing bracket bushings, although some think they last the life of the vehicle.

Yep, I did have all the tools, with the exception of the puller for the wheel bearing seal. That little, miserable job took nearly 30 minutes.

Yeah that seal is a pain. I used a small flat head screw driver that also has the metal all the way through the handle, and punched into the seal's metal band. After I perforated half way around it, I inseted the flat head and pried up, using the hub lip for leverage. That seal came out without a fight.