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  #1  
Old 08-30-2009, 05:40 PM
Oldwolf's Avatar
124.128/602.962/722.418
 
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Drag Link Recommendations?

Looks like I need a replacement Drag Link (Center Tie Rod Assembly) for my 300D 124.

I see I can get a Uro part for $27, or I can get a Lemfoerder built one for $61.

Is the Uro good , is it made in China?

Is the Lemfoerder worth the extra cost? Where are they made?

The link looks easy enough to get to and replace. Are there any tricks I need to know?

I am assuming I will need realignment once the new part is installed.

Thanks !



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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
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  #2  
Old 08-30-2009, 06:20 PM
Actros617's Avatar
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Get the Lemfoerder brand, they last longer than any other aftermarket brand.
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  #3  
Old 08-30-2009, 06:31 PM
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Note there are early and late 124 steering components. Definitely the drag link, pitman arm and idler arm are different. Not sure about the tie rods. 93 is late.

Sixto
87 300D
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  #4  
Old 08-30-2009, 09:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
Note there are early and late 124 steering components. Definitely the drag link, pitman arm and idler arm are different. Not sure about the tie rods. 93 is late.

Sixto
87 300D

You are correct. The 1985 Drag Link is different. It looks like this:

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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

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  #5  
Old 08-31-2009, 01:30 AM
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I have used a lot of Uro parts and the packages they come in are not marked as to where they are made.

I went to the Uro website and all they said is there stuff is made everywhere. So, you can assume there stuff is made somewhere in the far East.

I have not had any of the Uro products on my car for longer than 2 years and I am a low milage driver. So, I can not answer as to how long they would last.
However, the outward appearance of the part is good.
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  #6  
Old 09-01-2009, 12:21 PM
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I replaced my draglink with a Uro brand. It was in stock, and the Lemforder would take 2 days to get here. Needed the car on the road. Also replaced the steering shock with a high-quality brand. Mine has worked fine so far. I wouldn't worry too much about using a Uro draglink or tie-rods. Not sure I would use them for a balljoint. I have used Meyle brand parts for strut mounts and engine mounts. Their website states that they have "uprated" these parts with thicker and better materials to correct original design flaws which led to early failure. They even include cross sectional drawings to show their improvements. Which sold me. Some people criticize Meyle parts as being substandard, they are a little cheaper in some cases. Time will tell.
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  #7  
Old 09-01-2009, 12:30 PM
rrgrassi's Avatar
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I had to replace the drag link also. The part I got was a MOOG. I've used MOOG parts on other vehicles I had, and they lasted a good long time.

I paid $27 for the MOOG part.
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  #8  
Old 09-01-2009, 02:48 PM
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I have a URO drag link installed for a past few years and close to 30,000 miles. So far it is holding up well. It's the only Non-German made part in the suspension right now.
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  #9  
Old 09-01-2009, 07:20 PM
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So...my new drag link came the day after I ordered it. That was fast.

There are no cotter pins on other means to lock the nuts. Should I use LocTite and what is the torque specification for the nuts?
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
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  #10  
Old 09-01-2009, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldwolf View Post
There are no cotter pins on other means to lock the nuts.
One would hope that the nuts furnished were of the self-locking variety.
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  #11  
Old 09-02-2009, 11:43 AM
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They look like normal nuts too me.



If you have replaced one before, does the old one pop out pretty easily, or do you advise me to get a ball joint tool of some kind?

I already have one of the pickle fork varieties. Maybe that would work.

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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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  #12  
Old 09-02-2009, 11:51 AM
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I just found this useful thread...

W124 ---How to change center tie rod (drag link)...
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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  #13  
Old 09-02-2009, 11:53 AM
vstech's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oldwolf View Post
They look like normal nuts too me.



If you have replaced one before, does the old one pop out pretty easily, or do you advise me to get a ball joint tool of some kind?

I already have one of the pickle fork varieties. Maybe that would work.

nope. they are self locking nuts.
the upper thread is closer in pitch than the rest of them, so it pinches tight when you torque down the nut.
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  #14  
Old 09-02-2009, 01:12 PM
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That's good to know.Thanks.
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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  #15  
Old 09-03-2009, 01:59 PM
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The MB manual says to check alignment after doing a tie rod replacement. That's OK.

But, the MB manual doesn't say anything about checking alignment when replacing the drag link.

Odd, isn't this required after installing a new drag link?
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1993 W124 300D 2.5L Turbo, OM602.962
2000 Chevrolet Cavalier, 2.4L DOHC
2002 Ford Explorer, 4.0L SOHC
2005 Toyota Prius, 1.5L

http://www.fuelly.com/sig-us/40601.png
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