Any tricks/tips for removing injectors from OM 606? - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

jake12tech · #16 04-07-2014, 01:15 PM

I have the Baum 606 Injector socket in my tool box. My father fixed these cars for 3 decades or so we invested in the tools. I recommend you buy the socket for future use. The Baum socket is very deep. It's around $50.00 but works on all three motors (604/5/6).

I attached a picture to give you a virtual idea of how great this socket really is. Look online for it and buy it. Until then, a Craftsman gets the job done just fine if you have to.

29 foot pounds to torque the injectors even though it's been mentioned.

VW1300 · #17 04-07-2014, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by EDBSO

i couldn't get a regular 22mm socket to work as the walls were too thich I purchased this

My thread on R&R of Injectors

EDBSO, I the R&R thread you got the wrong fuel return line by mistake - what was the correct size?

Thanks for digging up that thread, lots of useful information.

EDBSO · #18 04-07-2014, 03:08 PM

It has bee too long ago to recall.
The wrong size came from a web order, the correct one was directly from the local dealer. With the wrong size it takes no time to fill up an injector well with diesel. I should have known I had the wrong size just by looking at it but trusted the web parts guy.

VW1300 · #19 04-07-2014, 04:22 PM

If I do this, I would order in rebuilt injectors so I can just do this all at once - sending mine out for a rebuild would be cheaper but make the job longer - this is my daily driver so the convenience factor is worth the extra cost to me. Thus, I should be able to confirm my fuel line is the correct size before I even start the job.

Can you confirm that the fuel line just press fits onto the nozzles?

mwoodland · #20 04-08-2014, 11:38 AM

I just did my OM606 and the return lines are just press fit.
I would also strongly suggest checking the injector "wells" with a strong light before pulling the injectors.
I had a pool of oil in several of them, leaks from the crankcase vent system.
Suck it out with a mityvac or something, and after pulling them, clean the heat shield "seat" with carb cleaner and paper towels before reassembly.
Get them surgically clean before reassembly.
Last thing you want is a chunk of dirt on the heat shield seat surface.

VW1300 · #21 04-08-2014, 10:29 PM

Thanks, will be sure to clean out the wells. One more question - to get to the injectors, I have to take the crossover intake pipe off, which I've done before. Then I have to take the plastic cover off? I've never been in there - is it pretty straightforward?

VW1300 · #22 04-19-2014, 01:36 PM

OK, I replaced the injector nozzles this morning. Not too difficult, just takes time. The special socket was definitely helpful.

Question - worked my way from back to front. Things were going OK, did #6 and #5, then started car. Lots of smoke but after a minute it went away. Did #4, and then I noticed the well on #2 had filled up with fuel. I got it out with a rag, but why did that well fill up with fuel?

Also - when I got around to doing #2 (after starting the car after doing #4 and #3) I noticed the #5 well had diesel in it. I got most out with a paper towel and pressed the return lines down a little harder on the barbs. I decided to finish the rest of the injectors and start the car. I ran the car for several minutes, did not see any more fuel coming into the #5 injector well. Any reason besides a return line that was not quite tight that fuel might get in the well?

Will post pictures and other observations for the good of the cause later.

thanks,

KarTek · #23 04-19-2014, 03:22 PM

I don't remember reading if you pop tested the injectors after swapping nozzles. Did you? Injector returns or injector body is leaking into the well. Body joint not tight enough or distorted. How did you unscrew the bodies?

VW1300 · #24 04-19-2014, 03:37 PM

Nozzles were remanufactured. Just unscrewed the old ones, put in the new ones with new heat shields at the bottom, torqued to 40 Nm.

VW1300 · #25 04-19-2014, 10:00 PM

Here are two pictures I snapped when doing the job - first shows the cut fuel line coming thru the "window" on the special socket. I liked this because I didn't have to get down in to cut the lines, just made the job slightly easier but as other pointed out, a general use thin walled 22 mm deep socket will do.

I include the second picture because I haven't come across a picture of the oil breather(?) lines for this engine, this shows all the pieces even though it's not quite in focus. They just seem to press fit together, re-doing this system does not look hard if it comes to that. The round saucer-shaped thing back by the #5 does not go down into the valve cover, but rather connects to an elbow behind it that does - I could not determine the saucer's function.

I'm still not sure why diesel would appear in the #5 well and then disappear. I ran the car for several minutes when everything was installed (but cover still off) and didn't see more fuel. I'll drive it tomorrow and see how it goes.

babybenz · #26 10-06-2014, 11:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by KarTek

I bought this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99878

Just for reference in the archives this item number 99878 at Harbor Freight is no longer available with no alternate item number given.

mikemass1221 · #27 04-20-2016, 11:37 AM

Nothing like bumping a 2 year old thread, but in searching through this forum I see many have had good luck in using any old thin well 22mm deep socket.

Harbor Freight no longer sells singles above 22mm. Craftsman (Sears) has 2 options. One is for a 3/8" drive, one for a 1/2" drive, but both are 12 point. Does anyone have any issues with either one of these sockets for this job? I don't want to spend over $50 for the Benz tool when I can spend $7 or $11 here.

3/8" drive: Craftsman.com

1/2" drive: Craftsman.com

jt20 · #28 04-20-2016, 02:01 PM

they are available on e_bay. a knock-off version that owrks quite well on the original injectors.

it will get hung up on the barbs of the india made injectors. they protrude too far.

It less than $15 shipped. worth it.

mikemass1221 · #29 04-20-2016, 02:45 PM

Found it. TY jt20

jay_bob · #30 04-20-2016, 02:52 PM

If you are getting oil in the injector wells also consider replacing the valve cover gasket and the 6 o-rings that seal the injector wells to the head.

My story:
Attn OM606 - inspect under the engine cover

Oh yeah definitely get the official socket, if you stress one of the return line nipples the injector is toast. $60 is cheap insurance here to do the job right.