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  #1  
Old 10-10-2009, 01:23 PM
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Broken Key Dispute: Please Weigh In w/Opinion

So my daugther tries and tries, but can't get the key to turn in the ignition (1992 300D). Calls AAA, they send a locksmith. Locksmith tries various things, but eventually breaks the key off in the ignition. So the car gets towed.

The Mercedes tech (very reputable and experienced guy) tells us that, because the locksmith broke the key, the repair will involve significant additional expense; and that, at least with a Mercedes, if the key won't turn you simply need to get it towed. So, just for my amusement, I called the locksmith. His claim is that, in a situation like that (where the key absolutely will not turn), the repair that's needed will be the same parts and labor whether or not the key is broken off. Therefore there's no financial risk in trying to force the key.

I'm inclined to believe the MB tech. What are your thoughts?

We'll certainly be pursuing the matter with AAA, so I'm trying to get my ducks in a row before we file a claim.

Thanks.
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  #2  
Old 10-10-2009, 01:36 PM
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Get quotes and signed statements from the MB tech, then you can call up the locksmith and pursue it. What an unfortunate event though, hope you can get this all sorted out easily!
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  #3  
Old 10-10-2009, 01:48 PM
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Whether towing is necessary or not, the locksmith was negligent in breaking the key. He is supposedly an expert and should know how far he can go before ruining the lock. IMHO, the steering wheel just needed to be turned slightly to release the pressure on the lock, thus allowing it to be turned by the key. I have to agree with your mechanic.
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  #4  
Old 10-10-2009, 01:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 280EZRider View Post
IMHO, the steering wheel just needed to be turned slightly to release the pressure on the lock, thus allowing it to be turned by the key.
Of course, if that had been the case, I'm sure the locksmith could have figured that out (even if my daughter couldn't have). So I guess at this point I have no reason to doubt that the tumbler was far enough gone that the key couldn't be turned even with jiggling the steering wheel.
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14 E250 Bluetec 4Matic "Sinclair", Palladium Silver on Black, 159k miles
06 E320 CDI "Rutherford", Black on Tan, 179k mi, Stage 1 tune, tuned TCU
91 300D "Otis", Smoke Silver on Tan, 145k mi, wastegate conversion, ALDA delete

19 Honda CR-V EX 77k mi
Fourteen other MB's owned and sold
1961 Very Tolerant Wife
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  #5  
Old 10-10-2009, 02:14 PM
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Most people here know about the vibrating sander on the key trick with an MB. Did the locksmith? If he didn't try it, its arguably negligence since amateurs like us have the knowledge.
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  #6  
Old 10-12-2009, 11:01 AM
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WRONG!
A failing cylinder on these cars will give the symptoms of having steering pressure against the lock when it is NOT. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt.

If your lock gets "sticky" DO NOT IGNORE IT, eventually it'll get stuck serious like and you'll be up the creek.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 280EZRider View Post
Whether towing is necessary or not, the locksmith was negligent in breaking the key. He is supposedly an expert and should know how far he can go before ruining the lock. IMHO, the steering wheel just needed to be turned slightly to release the pressure on the lock, thus allowing it to be turned by the key. I have to agree with your mechanic.
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  #7  
Old 10-13-2009, 12:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtludwig View Post
WRONG!
A failing cylinder on these cars will give the symptoms of having steering pressure against the lock when it is NOT. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt.
Me too. Size 3X...

Quote:
Originally Posted by curtludwig View Post
If your lock gets "sticky" DO NOT IGNORE IT, eventually it'll get stuck serious like and you'll be up the creek.
Funny thing with mine was it never gave ANY warning. Always worked just fine, then one day after work, out of the blue, no worky.

I tried ALL the tricks. Lubes, vibration, wiggling the wheel, force. Nothing worked. Even after I removed the assembly from the column by grindingoff the retainer pin, and swapped in a NEW lock cylinder, the column locking mechanism STILL wouldn't unlock. I ended up replacing the whole assembly AND the lock cylinder...
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  #8  
Old 10-13-2009, 02:01 PM
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I am refribing a "new-to-me" 1983 300SD
Ign lock is sticking at times-hard to turn-need to "jiggle" the steering wheel , etc..

What is this
Quote:
vibrating sander on the key trick with an MB
?

Is it best to just man up and replace the cylinder?
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  #9  
Old 10-13-2009, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtludwig View Post
WRONG!
A failing cylinder on these cars will give the symptoms of having steering pressure against the lock when it is NOT. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt.

If your lock gets "sticky" DO NOT IGNORE IT, eventually it'll get stuck serious like and you'll be up the creek.
You are absolutely correct, but since the original post gave no mention of any ongoing symptoms but rather a one-time occurrence, I put forth a possibility. When trouble shooting anything, always eliminate the easy stuff first.
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  #10  
Old 10-14-2009, 02:39 AM
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Sheesh ! Talk about a Horse and Water.

'Repeat after me: "A Master Locksmith can fix this Lock problem with ease!"
One Hundred Times!

They (True Master Locksmiths) are Few and Far Between,
But this kinda thing is child's play to them.

The "Pop-A-Lock",Triple A Guy,Etc.,Etc. Etc. ...
(Even the Shop Foreman at the Mercedes Dealership)
Are like Ducks out of Water... In Comparison.

If you had a Prostate problem ,would you go see an Orthopedic Surgeon?

['Just for future reference...If your "Locking Steering System" is approaching
Two (With five Zeros Attached to it).
The actual Bolt Throwing Locking Mechanism
(And the Electrical Portion of the Ignition Switch,Also) is on
Borrowed Time.]
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  #11  
Old 10-10-2009, 01:45 PM
Craig
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At this point you will have to have it drilled out anyway. Who knows of they could have gotten it to turn without the broken key.
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  #12  
Old 10-10-2009, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shertex View Post
His claim is that, in a situation like that (where the key absolutely will not turn), the repair that's needed will be the same parts and labor whether or not the key is broken off. Therefore there's no financial risk in trying to force the key.
The locksmith is correct. However, forcing the key to the point of fracture is the least desirable options because it doesn't allow further efforts with devices such as orbital sanders which can vibrate the lock to the point where it will turn.

Such and approach requires patience and time.........something a locksmith doesn't have.
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  #13  
Old 10-10-2009, 02:21 PM
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The whole reason

The whole reason you hired a locksmith, was to fix a problem with a lock and/or key. You hired someone who could theoretically do the job, afterall, that's what they do, and that's why you hired them.

If he came out and made it worse, then he should fix it or pay for it. Even if he has to pay for it, he's keeping the customer happy, and he's taken a learning "seminar", paid for by him. Afterall, if he's not paying for a problem he created, then he was put in a no lose situation; fix it you get paid, break it you walk away scot free. That's a pretty good deal, and not how business typically goes.

Seems to me the locksmith should take it on the chin. He can now use this experience and learning about a vibrating sander now to fix other cars.
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  #14  
Old 10-10-2009, 02:28 PM
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Fact: The tumbler was inoperable before the key broke.

Fact: There is no assurance that it could be made operable using any or all the tricks fore mentioned.

Fact: Removing the tumbler without a broken key inside costs exactly the same as removing one with no broken key.

These are great cars but they do have flaws. The ignition tumbler is one of the more common flaws.
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  #15  
Old 10-10-2009, 06:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toblin View Post
These are great cars but they do have flaws. The ignition tumbler is one of the more common flaws.
X2. I should have never messed with my ignition tumbler, I ended up having to grind out the steering wheel lock mechanism and then literally slice through the tumbler housing (about 3/8" hardened steel...) to get the thing out. That is why I sincerely feel awful for the OP here, especially since it wasn't really his (or his daughter's) fault.
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