I used to be a believer of Seafoam in gasoline engines, till I did some research and starting using new products. Here's a good thread discussing the "additives"/solvents in common fuel treatments. Now I use Gumout Regime or Techron... that's it, along with consistently running top tier fuels.

The MSDS's for Diesel Purge are misleading since every source of the MSDS lists different formulations (possibly changes through its production?).

First MSDS for Diesel Purge from LM (Aug '09): http://www.chemical-check.de/clientversion/pdf1/956/2520LMUS_0013_15-06-2009_US.pdf

Composition:
Naphtha (petroleum), hydrodesulfurized heavy 60-100% (CAS No. 64742-82-1)
2-Ethylhexyl nitrate 5-10% (CAS No. 27247-96-7)
Naphthalene 0.1-1% (CAS No. 91-20-3)

Second Worldpac MSDS (June '07): http://www.worldpac.com/tagged/DieselPurgeLM2005.pdf

Composition:
Diesel Fuel 65% (CAS No. 68476-34-6)
2-Ethylhexyl Nitrate 25% (CAS No. 27247-96-7)
Petroleum Distillates 10% (CAS No. 64742-54-7)
1,2,4-Trimethylbenzene 1% (CAS No. 95-63-6)

There was another but I can't find it at the moment. I'm wondering what the differences in composition are due to, interpretation? The Worldpac MSDS makes it seems like Diesel Purge is nothing more than naphtha mixed in with diesel fuel. Hell I could do that for less probably.

That should have been the first reply to the OP and the only reply needed.

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Charles
1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html

The next question, is the chemicals used in the products burning the carbon inside the chamber with hotter gases ,or ,is that the chemicals used maybe cleaning the injectors right before the burn.
I finished a Lubro Moly purge 2 days ago on a car acting up ,a discoloration in the return bottle made my believe it was cleaning gunk in the fuel system with the injectors,it did quiet the clatter and made the drive off from a start quicker and less smoke.I used one can and replaced filters as recommended.Maybe 2 cans would have done it.

Good combustion = less smoke, Bad combustion = more smoke.

Good fuel atomization = Good combustion, Bad Fuel atomization = Bad combustion.

Dirty injectors (Pindle tips) bad spray pattern = bad fuel atomization.

Not trying to talk down or come across that way. But it breaks down to the basics, Air, Fuel, Compression. If any one of those items is amiss then their will be issues. Remember to do the basic stuff first.
Filters.. Air, Oil, Fuel all need to be replaced at specified periods.
Replace wear items at specified periods. Engines do wear out, and their are components that do need to be replaced at certain periods (eg. Timing chains, Injectors, hoses)
Use quality consumables. Fuel, oil, and other fluids.

Hope this info helps.

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92 300D 2.5L OM602 OBK #59

for new members

If you are using the stock Bosch Injector Nozzles in the Injectors:
You might be cleaning the Carbon out of the passages #14 and #15 when you do a Diesel Purge.
On the Injectors from my Car and most of the ones I pulled from the Junkyard the #14 and #15 passages were entirely plugged with Carbon.

I am not sure if a Diesel Purge will help after the passages are entirely plugged but if they are still open a Purge should help keep them clean.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

What a lot of people miss - especially those who think they're o.k. cause they run bio in high concentrations - is the fact that Diesel Purge does help remove carbon deposits. In the tips of the injectors (as noted) and in the top of the engine. Biodiesel doesn't burn real well when your engine is cold. Heard about VW's coking up? Same deal. Tops of the combustion chambers, exhaust ports/manifold, turbocharger, on down the chain. Ever looked at what comes out the TAILPIPE while doing a purge?? Carbon, fool. Diesel Purge, when used properly and regularly, is NOT snake oil. Keep using it.

Jay

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On the road, currently:
'83 300D (German spec.) 168k mi. - - Wolfgang (tucked snugly away for the winter!)
'87 300D 375k mi. - finally went over to "The Dark Side"
'87 300TD 225k mi.
Cannondale 66cm CAAD5 w/Campy/Jamis Aurora
Hujsak Custom Fixie/Landshark Track Shark Custom/Ahearne Custom 29'er

When I do the math the Power Service in the silver jug increases my fuel mileage more than enough to pay for itself. And the Power Service in the white jug does an excellent job of keeping my fuel gel free all winter long. So while I agree they over hype their products, I wouldn't call them snake oil

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1981 240d (The Diplomat Car), 1988 Dodge W250 (The Bruiser), Volvo 262 (The Never Ending Project), 1972 Duece and a Half (Will Winch Over Anything)

Just use the 265 nozzles. No orifice to plug and they atomize better.