|
|
|
|
|
#32
11-09-2009, 09:48 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
So, following the Vac diagram above, I followed the Brown/Blue vac line under the airfilter housing and at the first Rubber Connector(Drivers side between headlam and brake booster) I seperated the joint and attached a Vac pump.
Started the engine, and applied Vacuum..... the motor stopped! So, I assume the Vac stop valve on the Injection pump is good(It held vac too). I then pulled out the Instrument cluster and followed the line to just above the ignition switch. I pulled the connector off there and applied a vacuum. The Pump lever moves. What next?
__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec 
|
|
#33
11-09-2009, 11:01 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
no vac line needed
Quote:
If vacuum to the brown/blue line shuts off the IP, then there is either a leak in that line (bad rubber coupler), or a leak in the brown line from the vacuum pump to the ignition starter switch valve, or that valve itself is bad. I have been watching ebay on and off looking for a rust free clean body to transplant the mechanicals and interior from my 84 190D, and did not see your car. I would have bid up to $750, especially for the blue body color. Congrats to you for getting it  Looks like the left rear fender was repainted. Potomac German Auto in Frederick MD might have the interior pieces you need. Last edited by ds190; 11-09-2009 at 11:40 PM.
|
|
#34
11-10-2009, 12:50 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Thanks!
I checked the Vacuum pressure at the T from the brake booster and get about -23psi. Upon searching, the Green Vac line seems ok, and firmly attached, but I did find a Black Vac line floating free in the fusebox area...
__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec
|
|
#35
11-10-2009, 10:34 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
vacuum
That black line goes from the vacuum control valve on the side of the IP ( different from the vacuum control unit stop on top of the IP) to the interior of the car under the dash. It is a vent line open to air inside the car. Maybe you can push it back through the firewall.
Performanceproducts dot com catalog lists the 201 FSM CD for $60, and the Haynes 190E manual for $18. An ebay seller is selling the paper 201 chassis and body FSM and the 102 engine FSM as a set for $130 shipped. Also on ebay is a dash overlay plastic piece, and also a carpet cover for the dash (I use one myself to hide the cracks). I have a very lightly used 201 chassis and body FSM, and an extra coil bound photocopy of the 601 engine FSM. Yours for $50 shipped. PM me if interested. Are you related to ps2cho?
|
|
#40
11-16-2009, 03:11 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
So, here was the progress this weekend....
My son and I went to the Junkyard on Saturday morning... It was fun and we struck gold! Apair of headlamps... from a later car, but they look good... $42 for the pair. Fitted...  Same car at the Junkyard had a new set of Bilstein front shocks... the Heavy duty ones, and looked and felt recent(clean and smooth)..... $13 for the pair.  I had noticed that the front shocks on my car are KYB's(  ) and the bumpstops were missing!    Bilsteins are fitted   Another car had a set of Bilsteins on the rear... so we got them too! Then I went looking for a Linkage for the Transmission shift and Cruise control. FYI, a M103 engine throttle linkage is perfect, but has different sized ball ends at each end... so buy 2 and swap the ends! Here is the result of the Cruise linkage(Trans linkage needs more work yet)!  Had a killer moment late this eve... Was checking the Vacuum connections on the engine Vac pump... spotted a crack in a small connection. Repaired it, and now the engine stops from the Ignition switch! SCORE! 1234567 Last edited by whunter; 08-05-2011 at 12:47 PM. Reason: attached pictures
|
|
#41
11-16-2009, 09:00 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Sounds like you getting a working car . . . so when are you gonna buy another project/mystery diesel to get back into mechanical shape?
__________________
82 240D Manual 277K and still rolling! 02 Volvo S60 AWD For Sale
|
|
#43
11-18-2009, 03:09 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Yep, every day brings improvements!
So, here is my new list of things to fix! 1/ Engine still takes about 2 seconds to stop after key removed... 2/ Speedometer cable broke, and inner dragged on the street until useless. New one ordered. 3/ Injector "return lines" weeping at injector... anyone tell me what size line it is? 4/ Drivers door lock just spins... 5/ A/C not working... system shows 90 psi static pressure... is that too much? 6/ Driver and both rear power windows dead. Gonna pull the trims and see whats going on this weekend. 7 Sunroof wind deflector does not pop up.
__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec
|
|
#44
02-20-2010, 05:03 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I LOVE MY DIESEL!
Just wanted to post an update.... It runs pretty good, about the only wrong is some engine vibration, that I think is bad motor mounts, which I have ready to do. Worst milage I have seen is 31mpg and the best so far is 36.7mpg Both front windows are now working, thanks to junkyard regulators, and both new front door trims are on and looking good with their new coat of paint! Recoloring Vinyl trim with SEM ColorCoat... anyone done this? I found the rear passenger side window was propped up with a piece of wood, and the regulator wire was MIA... I have the regulators, so next on my list.. I found a 5 speed manual trans at the junkyard... so that is on the horizon... 5 speed manual transmission rebuild Paint buffed up realy good, although with the shine you can see all the door dings.. 
__________________
2009 Mercedes ML320 Bluetec
|
|
#45
02-20-2010, 01:25 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
New Paint?
My drivers' door was hit and needed replacement. The consequently buffed out the entire paint job, and it was incredible and looked brand new. Don't know why you had to put new paint. A buffing machine, with compound would have made the whole thing new.
Also, keep a pencil or screw driver around to push the shut off valve at front of engine. and there is an engine shock that usually needs replacement which is why your idle might be rough. Don't expect any power from the auto tranny . . . . personally I would have been suicidal with an automatic tranny on mine, but the 5-spd kept me from checking my wrists on regular basis, although I did shut it off on onramps. As far as the A/C . . . after several attempts to repair, Shackelford's in Fredrickburg, VA finally got it working correctly by replacing the Nipondenso with an MBZ rebuit compressor, but unfortunately he convinced me to convert to R134. This time around, I converted to Freeze-12 on my 300D. Much better. No other rebuild holds up to the high pressure, so find a source for an OEM rebuild. Good luck on your purchase, and you will greatly enjoy the fuel mileage . . . . I used to average 37 mpg on my 5-spd. Torie
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
