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  #76  
Old 11-28-2009, 08:52 PM
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I think I might just do 6 months, spring and fall. Rotella conventional 15W40 in the summer, Rotella synthetic 5W40 in the winter. Sounds like a good, safe plan to me.

Does anyone have any good info on the supposedly "fake" synthetic oil that is (I think) chemically equivalent to "real" synthetic oil, but is derived from conventional oil?

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  #77  
Old 11-28-2009, 08:57 PM
Craig
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
I think I might just do 6 months, spring and fall. Rotella conventional 15W40 in the summer, Rotella synthetic 5W40 in the winter. Sounds like a good, safe plan to me.

Does anyone have any good info on the supposedly "fake" synthetic oil that is (I think) chemically equivalent to "real" synthetic oil, but is derived from conventional oil?
That sounds like a reasonable plan.

You are referring to the difference between Group III synthetic (Rotella) and Group IV synthetic (Mobile 1). I can't tell you anything you wouldn't find with a google.
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  #78  
Old 11-28-2009, 09:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
I put 5W40 Rotella synthetic and a new filter in today. That's the only 5W40 diesel oil Walmart sold, $19 a gallon isn't too bad. Should I still switch it every six months, or is that different with synthetic. I barely drive 3,000 every 6 months, so mileage isn't a worry. What is the basis for those "once you go synthetic, you can't go back" rumors?
Rotella syn is a good oil. 3000 miles,based upon a lot of oil analysis that Ive done, is not even going to take you to 1% soot loading, even in a 617 (later engines load the soot less). Given that you would do 6000 miles in a year, Id do a once a year OCI, but if youre doing a lot of miles, Id change it so you don't go much over 6000mi, at least without UOA.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
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1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

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  #79  
Old 11-28-2009, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JEBalles View Post
I think I might just do 6 months, spring and fall. Rotella conventional 15W40 in the summer, Rotella synthetic 5W40 in the winter. Sounds like a good, safe plan to me.

Does anyone have any good info on the supposedly "fake" synthetic oil that is (I think) chemically equivalent to "real" synthetic oil, but is derived from conventional oil?
That is a decent plan.

The argument of group III (sometimes called "fake") vs. group IV, in chemical engineering and tribological circles holds no real weight. The additive package is as important, if not moreso than the basestock.

There are benefits to group III oils, just as there are benefits to group IV and group V basestocks. Again, the balanced package, additives combined with basestocks makes the oil. Sure, group IV/V is a bit more expensive than group III, but the severe processing done to slack wax to create a group III oil is severe enough and chemically intensive enough to classify group III as a synthetic oil - there is nothing sacred in obtaining your feedstock from natural gas vs. wax.

The best oil is the oil that produces the best oil analysis results for your engine and your driving profile.

Rotella syn uses the same XVHI basestock as is blended into oils like shell helix ultra, which is Ferrari factory fill.

Hope this helps.
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #80  
Old 11-28-2009, 11:46 PM
Craig
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I found this info:

http://www-static.shell.com/static/can-en/downloads/shell_for_businesses/oils_lubricants/1-15.pdf
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  #81  
Old 11-29-2009, 07:30 AM
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Your plan is the same as the one I have adopted except I will use Delvac 1300 15w40 and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck. When Shell comes out with their new oils this winter I will reconsider my brand choice though.

I have seen markedly increased oil consumption with TDT and I wonder if you will with Rotella T Syn. Let us know your experience with it, OK?
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  #82  
Old 11-29-2009, 07:48 AM
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Rotella T

This is what is written up on Rotella T:


Notice it says 9% soot loading, with Excellent Results!
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  #83  
Old 11-29-2009, 07:56 AM
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but the question is, what is "excellent results"?
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Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)
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  #84  
Old 11-29-2009, 08:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JHZR2 View Post
but the question is, what is "excellent results"?
I know . . . they are not the ones who are gonna buy an engine when it wears out.

Just surprised that they use the number 9%!
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  #85  
Old 11-30-2009, 10:32 AM
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I've never seen "0W-40 SB Rottella," but I've used their diesel rated 5W40 synthetic. Is you oil diesel rated?

I use Mobile 1 5W40 diesel oil all year with oil and filter changes every 5000 miles in my 616/617 engines.
It seems (based on my readings from this and other diesel forums) that Canada has a bigger selection of readily available off the shelf diesel oils at lighter weights than we do here in the US.

On the forums I visit for my Suburban, there are many Canadian users that have a 6.5 and it seems most of them run 0w-40 diesel oil in the winter and can buy it off the shelf at many places in many different brands. I still have yet to see a 0w-40 diesel oil on the shelf here in MN.
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  #86  
Old 11-30-2009, 05:36 PM
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Here's some interesting reading: http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html
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  #87  
Old 11-30-2009, 05:37 PM
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There are two kinds of Mercedes diesel owners.

Those that have used a 5w40 synthetic when temps drop below freezing...and those that havn't and think dino is "good enough."

All it usualy takes is one 0 degree start with 5w40 in the sump to win them over. That starter motor turns the engine over fast.


This is more important on a marginal engine, you need that extra cranking speed.
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  #88  
Old 11-30-2009, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Graplr View Post
I still have yet to see a 0w-40 diesel oil on the shelf here in MN.
Mobil 1 0w40 is diesel rated. My friends E300D had a steady diet of it for the first 140k miles of its life.
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  #89  
Old 11-30-2009, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by macdoe View Post
Hello, Thank you for the info again...What do they mean by "soot loading"?
What classification on a bottle of oil tells you that it is diesel rated...I assume it is api/cg-4..etc. one of these codes, but which one. I could probably figure it out if I had some other types of oil containers to compare to.

So far this oil seems good, but I did some other stuff at the time of the oil change that has made the car run better. I'll let you guys know about this oil if it is worth mentioning.
If you look on the back and it has the big rig, tractor, construction equipment and pickup pictures, that's diesel rated. I don't know if that's on all of 'em though.
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  #90  
Old 11-30-2009, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hatterasguy View Post
There are two kinds of Mercedes diesel owners.

Those that have used a 5w40 synthetic when temps drop below freezing...and those that havn't and think dino is "good enough."

All it usualy takes is one 0 degree start with 5w40 in the sump to win them over. That starter motor turns the engine over fast.


This is more important on a marginal engine, you need that extra cranking speed.




LOL... Amen to that.

I do so few miles per auto per year...see sig... that I have switched to 5w40 Rotella year round in all my diesels. If I drove any one alot I might do the 15w40 in the summer but for me it would be a waste of money.

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