I have balanced 3 MB flywheels and so far NONE have been neutral. My suggestion is spend the extra time and money and get the new one match balanced. If the shop cannot match balance then its not too hard to do the match yourself. I just had my old flex plate and the new flywheel neutral balanced to 0. then marked and transferrred the balance holes on the flex plate to the opposite side of the now 0 balanced flywheel. viola match balanced. the 300D flywheel I did later was off by a ton, the 240D flywheels were both off around 20 grams which is qty2, 3/8 dia holes 3/8 deep

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1982 300CD Turbo (Otis, "ups & downs") parts for sale
2003 TJ with Hemi (to go anywhere, quickly) sold
2001 Excursion Powerstroke (to go dependably)
1970 Mustang 428SCJ (to go fast)
1962 Corvette LS1 (to go in style)
2001 Schwinn Grape Krate 10spd (if all else fails)

Let me know if you need measurements for your driveline or linkage. I have the whole drivetrain out of my 4-speed wagon.
Dan

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

All 3 of yours haven't been neutral balanced, well I'll for sure be spending the extra time/money to do mine right. Thanks for the advice.

Dan thanks for the measurement offers, I think I got it covered but I'll PM you if something comes up.

It's going to be a couple weeks until I'm back at the project. Christmas is my excuse but I might as well use the -1F weather too!

So I've now ordered all parts needed except new pressure plate and flywheel bolts. Is it necessary to use new ones?

New flywheel bolts are $6 x 12 = $72 and I haven't located new pressure plate bolts but if they're anywhere near the same price I'm looking at nearly $150 in bolts.

Can I just reuse my existing bolts or does anyone have another idea on how to save some $?

My 81 240D has a 617.912 in it, but i get REALLY bad bucking at low rpms like it shoved my AC compressor into my hood and made dents, My car already has minimal linkage on it. Do you have any suggestions on how to minimize the bucking?
Thanks,
Michael.

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1981 300TD 4 speed manual
Euro bumpers, zender valance and skirts, H&R springs, billy HD's, leveled sls, real AMG Pentas 16x8 et11, vdo boost/egt gauges intergrated into ash tray, eurolights, led 3rd brake light

Go back to post#19, I put up the link to the thread I did.

Oh well, here it is.
79 W116 Valve Cover Linkage on 85 W123 VC

you will notice the one rod is tweeked, the idiot that owned the Sd didn`t keep the balls greased, so it bent a little prying it off. I replaced them with my old ends.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Well it's been quite a while but I finally finished the job. Man those flywheel bolts were a pain...had to grind some off. I had the flywheel resurfaced and put the new parts in.

One HUGE hang up was the clutch master I ordered came with the wrong pushrod. There are 2 pushrods for the 240D masters (see photo). I had the shorter white one but needed the longer black one. Yes the difference looks small but it's the difference between being able to shift and not! It took me quite a while to figure that one out.. that's because I have a few different cars into one now.

Unfortunately the transmission I put in the car (came out of a 240d in an IA field) had a bad bearing and is making noise above 20mph. There's an auto recycler around here that has an 80 240d tranny for $200...I'll probably buy that this week and plop it in soon.

Driving the 300TD with a manual makes the car a lot of fun. Glad I did the project.

Attached Thumbnails

         

LOL! Awesome! I love the way that shifter looks on that car
I haven't done business with these people, but their used transmissions come with a 30 day warranty, and they seem to have the 4-speed... they want $396 for a used one though, I don't know what your budget looks like, but you might want to call them and see...
http://www.adsitco.com/category.asp?CID=1644&VID=

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[/SIGPIC]~cirrusman

1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"
[SIGPIC]




1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT

It`s been a few months since you last posted on your project, but at -1deg I wouldn`t work on mine either. 50 is too cold for me around here at times.

Good you got her up and running, it is a different car isn`t it? I remember the excitement when I finally got her to move the first time. WOW! thought I was in a Corvette . I guess it is the 2:88 Diff., reverse is almost faster than first gear.

now Iam wondering which rod I used in the master cyl. I do know the peddle seems too close to the floor for engagement. and the pita the master is to work on under the dash............nah, no way Iam messing with it now. the bleeding was bad enough.

too bad about the trans problem. $200 for one already pulled is not a bad price. PNP charges $149 out the door total cost, and I pull it. that adsitco is a bit pricy I would think.
there is a thread about them, and to stay away, customer svc sucks. do a search on them. But some people have had good luck with them.

At least now you will have a trans to take apart and maybe replace the bearings to have a good spare. another learning curve. the haynes manual shows the iron box disassembled as a good guide.

A couple months back I sent the driveline back to the shop and had the U-joint replaced. had a vibration that I have been trying to work out. thought I didn`t have the FW balanced right, maybe wrong trans rubber mount, maybe some angle off . even wiggled and moved the DL. then one day checked the center bearing/U-jount again and detected some movement in the joint. so much for my low milage DL from PNP . But did drive it a year before this showed up.

I just replaced the sub frame and trailing arm bushings and swaped in lower milage trailing arms and lower milage Diff., and as soon as I get the new parking brakes installed and exhaust back on, I hope nothing shakes rattles or vibrates . Iam at 361k so some of this was due for a up grade.

enjoy your car this summer, Iam sure you will.

Charlie .............. Wow, Iam at 3000 posts...............

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Thanks guys! Those adsitco transmissions look nice, maybe in a few years when I get a G wagen

Charlie yes that bleeding was a bear. I hope I don't have to open up the clutch hydraulics when putting the new tranny in..

It sure is like a Corvette! Car is so much more fun to drive. I have AAA so I've been driving it to work everyday... too fun not to drive.

You sure are getting rid of every rattle. I've been trying, but on a slower pace. I'm planning on new engine mounts and shocks soon too.

Oh and yeah the front end did come up just like you said. I might try cutting the springs like you showed, I think I'd be more comfortable putting in the voightlands though.

When you swap out the transmissions, you won`t have to open up the hydraulics. unbolt the slave cylinder and leave it connected to the line. set it aside, wire it up out of the way. then drop the transmission.

when the new one is installed, just bolt the slave back on.

here is the Adsitco thread I was thinking about.

Read This Before you EVER buy anything from adsitco

I didn`t cut my springs, I just replaced them with a set off a 240D. now I need to swap in the sway bar I have from a TD. I`ll try to get it in before the NW GTG July 22 in Washington.
Last year I had just got the 4-spd in before the last GTG up there. the front end was so high, I was blinding the Owl`s with the headlights .

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

oh nice. I'll scrounge around maybe try the 240 springs route, thanks for the tip.

I wish WA was just a bit closer to MN! Maybe next year... then I'll have everything chased down and be really proud to show her off

Wow... I dodn't know how bad the Adsitco place was... interesting thread and thanks for the heads up... I'll look elsewhere when I'm in the market for a manual tranny...

__________________
[/SIGPIC]~cirrusman

1983 Mercedes Benz 300SD - Wife calls him "Chitty Chitty Bang Bang"
[SIGPIC]




1983 Toyota Tercel (Tommy, The little Toyota that could)
1965 Ford F100 (Grandma Ford)
2005 Toyota Sienna (Elsa, Wife's ride)


Gone:
1988 Toyota Pickup
2004 Subaru Outback

1987 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham
1986 Volvo 740 GL Station Wagon - Piece of junk.
1981 Volvo 242 DL 2 Door - Hated to see it go. R.I.P.
1987 Pontiac Fiero GT

Do you happen to have the P/N of the black clutch master push rod? I can only find the white one, which is currently on my car anyway. I can shift fine, but the rod is too short and it pops out of the master cylinder at the top of the stroke causing the pedal to click and pop.

Oh sorry, i don't have the P/N on either. I did call the dealer and he said the black one is from early 240d's. The cost difference was huge, black push rod was around $50, white I think was $17.

Sometimes when you buy a new master cylinder it comes with both pushrods.