I'm undertaking this massive task at the moment on a '84 300TD. This is one job that looks like I don't want to have to repeat.

Rear hyd shocks pulled, brake calipers unbolted and safely hanging. Removed the left and right sway bay links, unbolted and dropped the exhaust.

I'm headed back out to remove the driveshaft, park brake cables, differential mount, subframe mounts...

Oh yea... I'd better take some pictures. This may take a few days.

Distracted by a house on fire just two down from me. The local FD was out on a brush fire and could not respond. I'm not sure much can be salvaged. I'll see if they need some clothes... tomorrow when things settle down a bit.

Back to the wagon.

The rear sub frame and suspension components are out, dismantled and received a thorough cleaning and inspection.

The right rear trailing arm bushings (mostly outer) are shot plus I found the wheel bearing to be a little rough on that same side.

Time to order more parts from Phil.

I have tons of pictures to resize.

Yesterday I pulled a used right rear trailing arm from the W126 parts car subframe I had at the ranch. The W123 wagon uses the same part as the 1st gen W126s. I just need to swap out the park brake cable. I'll have to study that...

This trailing arm will solve my wheel bearing issue since I don't have the tools/time to rebuild the old one. I'll go ahead and press new bushings into it before it goes back on the wagons subframe.
I need to make a tool to do this. Tried the Autozone ball joint press on one of the bushings. Got one out but it is way too cumbersome...

I think I can make something with "all thread" washers and a piece of pipe.

I'll try to go back and edit and post pics when I'm finished.

FYI, This car has approximately 210K miles and has been well maintained. I found the rear trailing arm bushings to be hard and crumbling. I was beginning to drive and feel as if the rear tire pressures were low. A bit of wandering.

Cold front with rain. No progress this afternoon other than obtaining the pieces to make the bushing tool.

5/8"x12" all thread. (Tractor Supply w/cute check out girl)

Four nuts to fit the above. (T/S)

Two 5/8 ID washers (T/S)

Two 3/4" ID washers (T/S)

One 1 1/2" female pipe coupler (Lowes plumbing)

I could weld up some stuff but, I'm trying to come up with something for those without a welder.

The idea is to pull the old bushing out using the threaded rod into the 1.5" pipe coupler. You can then use this to pull the new bushing into place.

Pictures coming.

I'm sending Kudo's your way....

Thanks. I'd rather swap and engine than this...

RichC just had his wagon subframe in and out about four times. I stopped by and saw it up on jack stands. That was enough to convince me to get started on this one.

Four times???

Yea, I think he told me four times.

He's trying to get around the SLS. He picked up a nice wagon that had a sedan engine installed by the PO. No SLS head and most of the other components had been removed. So, he's tried different combinations of springs, shocks...
Plus, He found a differential whine, dropped it out and put a 2.47 in.

I stopped by and helped him press in lower ball joints. At that time he had the entire front and rear suspension pulled. Should be a nice driver when he's done.

Whiskey Dan , My wagon has a touch of roll when at 65 ,it will keep you very active in watching the road will driving .Best way to describe it is a monkey rocking back and forth on the luggage rack ,oh yeah ,I checked.Is this the simptom your having.

Old thread, new experiences to share.

Did my whole front end of my 1984 300TD (NA) last month and am working on the rear now.

Whiskeydan the man lead the way, and the black miracle paint ( same as POR 15?) is hardening on the beefy chunk o metal.

One trailing arm and bits done with grinder and phosphorous acid ready for paint. Never done the acid bit, but works fine...it is like magic.
Does anyone know if the acid has to be rinsed off? I did, just in case.

All cool and dandy. Apart from the subframe bushing...manoman...

IŽll try and get the pics in here. The bushing centerpiece ( aluminium cone around a steel sleeve glued in the rubber chunk) broke free in all I loosened so far. Three sofar.

The almost-thirty-year old is too tired.
The bolts are rusted in and didnŽt budge no matter what.

My method; grind off a corner of the alu to the center steel sleeve, bonk it of and bonk the sleeve on an anvil to break the rust and stretch the sleeve so it comes of.

This one is shot so has to go.

IŽll take that from the 300TDT parts car. That motor will go in the sleeper-to-be.

More coming on the springs..

cheers,

Jan.

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Hi, Franklyn. I called Coil Spring Specialties in Kansas City to see if I could emulate your order, and they had no record. Do you happen to have a copy of your original order or any of the dimensions you took so that I can forward them to Coil Springs Specialities and try what you did?

Let me know at your convenience. Thanks, Franklyn!