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#1
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is there anything special about that o-ring? It has a metallic luster to it, doesn't it?
what is the material / type? |
#2
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70 is the hardness and buna is the material its common. Hope this helps.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#3
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Quote:
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#4
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Hercules Bulldog is the Mfg. I pick them up at the hydraulic shop that rebuilds my cylinders. They make standard , metric , Japanese Etc. They have a huge master catalog they ship out for free. The most common O-rings are the buna the black ones. Two durometers 70 for most mobile applications 90 for static applications (boss type fittings ) . Viton would be the brown ones high heat and special apps but they're a PITA they cut / nick real easy. Everything seems to be throwaway nowadays these kits have saved me more than once.
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Experience : what you receive 3 seconds after you really needed it !! 86 300SDL 387,000? Motor committed suicide 81 300SD 214,000 "new" 132,000 motor 83 300SD 212,000 parts car 83 300SD 147,000 91 F700 5.9 cummins 5spd eaton 298,000 66 AMC rambler American 2dr auto 108,000 95 Chevy 3/4 ton auto 160,000 03 Toyota 4runner 180,000 wifes |
#5
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Those kits do savey you a lot if trouble and inconvenience. I have 2 Harbor Freight standard US size type kits and a Metric one that cost less than $8 from Auto Zone. The Auto Zone kit does not have the Lift Pump O-ring but it does have 24 of the Oil Filter bottom Stem O-Rings and the Lower Fuel Filter Bolt O-ring sizes. I have not seen it yet but in their ad Harbor Freight is now selling a Metric O-ring kit.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#6
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The O-ring I got from the BMW Dealer is just a Black O-ring. If your O-ring came with the kit no matter what color it is it should be the correct one.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#7
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Thanks 300dOwnder for bringing this helpful page up, and the additional info. I saved a copy for the future.
I removed the lift pump on one of my W123's since that seemed the simplest way to remove the old white hand primer. I recall having to work slowly w/ a 10 mm box wrench to get some of the 3 mounting bolts off. I may not have had my 10 mm ratcheting wrench then, or might not have fit. I took the outlet fittings off to inspect and don't recall any difficulties like mentioned here (minimal rust in CA). Since then, I read the best way to remove the white primer is to just bash off the plastic to get at the bottom nut, assuming you aren't trying to save it. |
#8
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I don't think I've seen this thread before either.
Bit of reference marking going on Here's a link to a M pump fuel pump rebuild I did Refreshing the fuel pump on an OM617 (European spec – non turbo) (I'll link this thread in that one and the circle of life will be complete...)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior ![]() Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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