$&%^#@* Door Strike Bolts! - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

leathermang · #16 12-15-2009, 02:59 PM

I think they may be " captured" normally... held with some kind of little bracket spot welded behind it... but on our old cars you know something could have happened to that bracket ( if it existed ) or it could have rusted off...

Not taking all the bolts off at the same time would be my guess...

pjc · #17 12-24-2009, 07:09 PM

If the hex hole in the mounting bolt is too rounded for an allen wrench, you can tap in a slightly larger torx driver. This will, of course, deform the hole even more, but if you're planning to use new bolts for reinstallation it doesn't matter.

The bolts mount to a small steel bar inside the B-pillar (see first pic, on a W126). The bar is held in place (loosely) by an S-shaped piece of sheet metal spot welded inside the B-pillar (see bottom of hole in second pic). It's conceivable, though unlikely, that this could break loose over time.

I recently asked an injection molding company what it would cost to produce just the hard rubber part that fails on these strike plates. The unit cost would be pretty cheap (assuming a minimum run of at least 500). The problem is a new set of molds would run about $4K-5K.

LuckyEddie · #18 12-24-2009, 09:38 PM

Why not just machine the things out of delrin?? What are they worth?? A new door striler is about $25 or so. Are they all the same (the little piece)?

Robert

leathermang · #19 12-24-2009, 11:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pjc

I recently asked an injection molding company what it would cost to produce just the hard rubber part that fails on these strike plates. The unit cost would be pretty cheap (assuming a minimum run of at least 500). The problem is a new set of molds would run about $4K-5K.

There is a good book called ' how to cast small rubber parts' and probably many more since I saw that one... I had planned on doing this also... 'Regular' Urethane sets up really hard...so you can just use a hand caulking ratchet gun with a big tube for filling it... no mixing and pouring kind of mess...

snookwhaler · #20 01-21-2010, 09:50 AM

Ok.... I was getting ready to run out and replace one of these things today. Now, after reading this thread, I am a little freaked out and afraid to try and even remove the damn thing.

I don't want to open this stupid door until "I know I can replace the striker". The door was VERY difficult to shut without that stupid little piece on there.

So, is there anyway to saturate these bolts (heads and back of the threads) with "break free" before removal? Will a simple little propane torch be enough to loosen them? And those little steel bars... Are they really not fastened to the back of the pillar?

leathermang · #21 01-21-2010, 10:36 AM

The threads in question are away from the head in terms of liquid dripping access...
if you want to come in from the backside by messing with your interior perhaps you can get to them....
However, if you have the new screws ready to replace it... you will be surprised at how easy the head drills off of them...

rrgrassi · #22 01-21-2010, 10:53 AM

I still need to get the bolts....

The thing is, I had removed the screws a year ago...why did they sieze up already?

Using a #3 phillips seems to be better. The '89 Nissan truck I have needed an adjustment as well. Last week I was able to do so with out any PB Blast. These screws were never loosened prior to that AFAIK, as I've had the truck since it was new.

In my opinion the allen is too small in this situation, and the torque used to loosed them just tends to round them out.

snookwhaler · #23 01-21-2010, 12:43 PM

Thanks for the input guys! They came right out after soaking in the blaster for about an hour. Both sides on mine had the thick shims. So, the blaster got around and dripped on the threads. When I pulled the strikers off, the threaded bars had blaster in the threads.

Oh.... When I got the drives side done, I thought it would be a good idea to lube all the latches and inspect all the "striker tongues". I found the passengers rear to be bad too!!

It was about to fall apart at any moment!

Anyway.... I'm putting some pics in my thread on this topic. I think this is going on 2 months ago now? It is nice to be able to open the rear doors again.

Coopnjaxdad · #24 01-21-2010, 03:33 PM

There are also much cheaper short run single cavity protomolds. There is also a company that could 3-d print these out of rubber..

http://www.3axis.us/

scottmcphee · #25 01-21-2010, 08:00 PM

A selling feature of the door striker told to me by MB salesman, back when w124 was new.... "you can lift the car on a hook from this striker and it won't pull off the car".

Also, another quote... (why do I remember this stuff?) "the wiring harness in this car (w124) costs as much as an entire Honda"