Yes, I know, another ball joint thread, but I can't seem to find out how to use the Advanced Auto Ball Joint tool. The knuckle kind of gets in the way, and I don't know which way to press it out. Press from the bottom or the top?

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

You cannot "press it out" the ball joint is removed from the spindle with it clamped in a vise and a suitable hammer and drift is used to pound the boll joint out! A suitable hammer is likely a 6 pounder which you will swing like a baseball bat! A suitable drift will likely be a large heavy socket!

I have a socket which has a two foot long wire handle welded to it, put the socket on the bottom of the ball joint holding it there with your left hand and then applying the hammer from overhead with the right hand, repeat as necessary!

Why can't I press it out? And I still don't know which way to force it out.

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition

It comes out from bottom to top. You would do well to follow the good advice in post #2.

Then, when it's time to install the new joint, find someone with the proper MB press and forget the generic press.

Reality! Because the Chinese recycled chevy tool you're trying to use is incapable of exerting enough force to do so! Not to mention that the tool you're attempting to make use of will not allow you to position it to apply any force that could move the ball joint from the spindle. The ball joint needs to be forced from below, upwards and outwards from the cup of the spindle where it resides. There is no way to position the head of the tool so that it makes contact with the spindle as you would apply forcing power to the bottom of the ball joint.

Below is a pic Deliveryvalve sent me showing how he removed his Ball Joint. I added the Yellow Arrow to show the direction it comes out.
He is using a Socket as the Punch to knock out the Joint.

Note that the Steering Knuckle is upside down. The Factory Service Manual shows it upside down but with part of it held in a Vice so that you can Beat the Joint out.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Definitely needs to be hammered out.

The Autozone press will only press the joint in.

Danny

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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I used a large hydraulic press at work to do this. I was amazed at how much force was needed. Something like 10 -12 tons. If you can't get it out with a hammer let me know. I can bring it to work and get it out for you.

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81 300D Turbo 190K sold
83 300sd 319K best $500 I ever spent-daily driverw/ 2 tank WVO set up

And only then by pressing on the wrong part of the joint, which all but guarantees that the joint will be at least somewhat deformed in the process.

Sorry but this statement is false.

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1984 300SD Turbo Diesel 150,000 miles

OBK member #23

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(='.'=) This is Bunny. Copy and paste bunny into your
(")_(") signature to help him gain world domination

The yellow arrow is not neccessary (for me anyway ). It is obvious with the position of the hammer/socket/steering knuckle that the ball joint can only come out in one direction.

PS. The assistant holding the socket is very brave (or very foolish) depending how you look at it.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

It's not that bad! The initial hit was where the assistant was helpful and was able to be positioned far enough away where the hammer could not hit him. After you get the joint going down a bit, the socket now had a place so it will not slip off. Then you can use one hand to hold the socket and knuckle while hammering down.

But I can see if being a problem if the joint was rusted in or perhaps welded.

.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

The ball joint in your pic must not have rusted in place and didn't require a lot of force. That's probably why it came out without clamping the knuckle in a vise and just resting it on the floor. I watched a shop do mine. They had the knuckle in a big vise on a metal bench (heavy and sturdy). With goggles and leather gloves on, one guy held a cylindrical brass hammer as a punch resting on the ball joint (which puts his hand safely 12" away), the other guy with a 3 ft long handle sledge hammer swung it like splitting wood. Took 3 shots and it came out. That would have been dangerous if not properly set up.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Thinking again about this method, with the knuckle not supported in a vise but resting on the ground, I wonder if there is any danger of bending the knuckle at the weakest point (near the UCA where it is thinner)? It is a long and curved piece. If it was straight, I'd have less worry. It is a pretty beefy piece but hit it hard enough without any give from the ball joint, could it bend? And how would you know if it did or did not bend? It would be hard to tell without a jig.

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 167,870 July 2025
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

Yeah, I think he said to watch out for that. I had mine against a plastic tub full of sand, so I just assumed that it'd go through the plastic before it bends. It didn't take that much force.

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1983 240D 3.0T 4-speed manual, now sold

1989 Subaru GL Wagon 5-speed Touring Edition