nope. bushing sizes depend on the part number of the sway bar. a 500e 27.5mm swaybar isn't going to have the same bushings as a 300e and you can't switch them around. also the two inner bushings are different inside diameter than the outer ones.

why you reinstalled it while on the ground is beyond me. i recommend jacking it up and reinstalling it not under load but it's your car

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Whether the car is on jacks or on the ground the sway bar should not be loaded if the wheels are even with each other.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

The sway bar won't be loaded end to end but it might add some springiness across the front axle depending on how tight the inner bushings are. I haven't read the front sway bar section of the FSM but other suspension sections say to torque bushing'd fittings with the fitting supporting the weight of the car. I'm no expert, just passably literate

Sixto
87 300D

The original brackets were a weak design, and MB beefed them up. I would buy the new style brackets. See the photo below, the old version is on the left, the new version is on the right. I'm not sure when these were phased into production, but you might be able to snag some from a newer 124 at a salvage yard. To buy new, the brackets are $24 MSRP each. The upper plate was also changed, those are $5 each new.

The new style sway bar bushings have a teflon liner so the bushings don't bind against the bar (and they're quieter, too). Ideally you should only screw the nuts on half way with the car jacked up, then lower it to the ground, slide under on your back, and tighten them up with the full weight of the car on the wheels. This usually isn't required though.

BTW - any chance you could post some photos of the carnage? I have the new-style brackets on my '87 Sportline and they have never shown any fatigue, even under hard use (i.e., impromptu autocrossing )

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ever done a swaybar off a w201/124? the brackets on the ends are attached to the 'uprights', which are attached to the LCA, which are attached to the springs and shocks. when on the ground, the LCA's are under load, and therefore so are the swaybars

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I've never done a 124 sway bar so they could be different from all other sway bars I have ever seen or read of.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

So you say the inside diameter of the bushings are different? Well That would be the trouble then. They are too tight in the center.

Your wagon needs 124-323-45-85 inner bushings (27.5mm ID), and 124-323-50-85 outer bushings (22.0mm ID). What part numbers did you purchase and install?

I could'nt say for sure. I have the box around somewhere. It came as a package for that particular model and year.

Well, seems we have a bit of a disagreement, which don't get me wrong is a good thing. That's how we learn. That being said, I always heard that any suspension part is supposed to be tightened up when the vehicle is in it's normal position, but... and that is a big but, I could be wrong about that and would take no offense in being so. I do know that the same bracket has broken three times now in three weeks and I am not sure I understand why.

With the sway bar unhooked from the suspension on both sides you should be able to grab it and move one end up or down with your hand. If you cannot ...it is binding too much.

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

This is basically correct, and is critical for any suspension part that has a bonded rubber bushing between two metal shells, including front & rear lower control arms, and all links on the rear subframe. However, the sway bar bushings are different... they are not bonded between two metal shells. Although the FSM procedure for the sway bar (job 32-300, click here) does say to only tighten with the car in "ready to drive state", I believe this was written back when the bushings did not have the Teflon liner. The new bushings with Teflon liner really do not need this, as the bar will rotate freely inside, even when the mounts are fully tightened. I hope you bought the new style bushings. Some aftermarket bushings will not have the Teflon liner. It's also possible you have the wrong size bushing (too small / tight). What part numbers did you order?



Like I said, the original mounts used from 1986-1989 were weak, and upgraded by the factory. Replace them.

c-holmes: follow gsxr's instructions and keep breaking brackets--it's your choice

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Well I am not sure as I purchased awhile ago. But yesterday I checked and both sides are broken again! I can't believe it! I am going to order two new mounts and new bushings and try again. I can't imagine why it keeps breaking the mounts. I definitely have the rubber bushings in the right place as they can only go one way.

I think it's time you uploaded some photos of your broken brackets, while still mounted on the car...