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#16
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I have to go back to many experiments we conducted years ago. Why petroleum products where the best way to reduce the rate of the existing oxidation of steel. If you put a dob of grease on a sheet of metal we found that over time the oil component or lower viscosity component slowly flowed away or migrated from the grease. I cannot remember the actual radius. It is enough though that the same is going to occur in the rear cv joints and it will reach the boot.
So you are right if the boot is rubber and that I doubt because of the stiffness of the material. Total rotting of a replacemnt aftermarket boot has not been reported on site either. The makers would not make them of straight rubber and expect to remain in business either in my opinion. I would certainly contact and question the manufacturer of them if rubber is suspect. I am unaware if the split boots have been redesigned to compensate for the uneven flexability that has semi doomed them from the start. Taking the time to remove and refresh the lubricant in the existing good joints on a car is time well spent. A few replacement clamps should do it if your boots are still good. Many of those joints have not seen any attention for at least twenty years. |
#17
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I agree that its a good idea to "change oil" the axles. By default, this is what I essentially did when i rebooted my axles. Although, i will say that the condition of the original lubricant (gear oil) appeared to be good. Also, although my boots appeared to have stress cracks, it was actually well intact upon close examination. It could probably have gone for another 50k miles if i were to guess.
I don't think there should be a concern of oil or grease hastening the deterioration of the boot. The life of the original boots averaged 20-30 years. How much longer do you want? I'm guessing that the new boots would outlast the car. furthermore, due to the lower position/elevation of the axles, the lubricant should normally stay within the axle cavity.
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done If it ain't broke, don't fix it.. Its always simpler to tell the truth... 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home 84 300D - Found Another Home 80 300TD - Found Another Home Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa |
#18
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I used gear oil in mine 10K+ miles ago. I rebooted using tobybul's posted method, dorman boots from autozoo... so far, so good.
but the wife did not like that I spent $85 on boots for the car, and not her, so we had to get her a pair of Frye's.......so it was quite expensive...
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1984 123.193 372,xxx miles, room for Seven. 1999 Dodge Durango Cummins 4BTAA 47RE 5k lb 4x4 getting 25+mpgs, room for Seven. |
#19
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In general I am with Barry on this..
but it really seems like most of you are totally ignoring the fact that these are spinning items which will be throwing out whatever super duper grease is put on them.. which will stay attached to the inside of the boot.. DOING NO GOOD for the friction surfaces which need them... BUT oil in there , each time you stop.. will drip or splash some oil onto those surfaces... That is why they use oil .
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#20
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Answer
I use modern CV joint grease.
The lubrication/chemical technology has changed drastically in twenty + years. CV JOINT lubrication technology http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=com.microsoft%3Aen-us&q=CV+JOINT+lubrication+technology&btnG=Search&aq=f&aql=&aqi=&oq= CV JOINT GREASE technology http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ei=CmxXS5iqOIfWNruDleIE&sa=X&oi=spell&resnum=0&ct=result&cd=1&ved=0CAYQBSgA&q=CV+JOINT+GREASE+technology&spell=1 CV JOINT GREASE. http://www.google.com/search?q=CV+JOINT+GREASE&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz= http://www.huskey.net/s_autocv.html http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/e_3510.html http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=SL3174B&S=Y |
#21
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Boot Life Extension
FYI, I did what another member suggested several years and the repair has worked extremely well! I had light cracking (but no perforations) on the peaks and valleys of the boot -mostly the peaks. I cleaned boot very carefully with marine clean (or other degreaser) and then after boot was nice and dry, I sprayed 3M rubber undercoating carefully over each boot doing a 1/4 section at at time on all four boots and both sides. Great results! In fact, when I finally reboot this spring, I am going to spray 3M product over new boots so it serves as a sacrificial cover to protect new rubber from oxidation, debris, etc. Try this, those of you you have worn lightly cracked boots, works great!
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#22
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Quote:
With the exception of Mercedes I have seen no repair manual that shows pouring Oil into the CV Joints. I also think grease becomes more fluid with heat and while it may not flow like the Oil does I have a feeling it moves around more then we think.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#23
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Yep, MB used oil and grease.
I'd rather have oil in the joints since it has proven to work for 25+ years. However, I suspect the boot will fail before the joint wears out from lack of lub. |
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