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#1
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flaring on '83 300d, only 188k miles
Looking at taking it in "good-guy" partial trade for my other '83. Flares for up to THREE SECONDS during 2-3 and 3-4 shifts under heavy accel. 1-2 seems to be "less than" (?) one second. Locks up nicely under power braking, and reverse seems to work fine. Disconnecting vacuum and bowden cable make no difference.
Could this be something "simple," like every spring in the valve body is broken? One flare, a B2, or a leak I can manage, but every gear??? Fluid is full and smells freshish. Also has major blow-by and a bad white-over-gold respray. Zero rust, but poor car . . . it would be nice to keep it on the road.
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James Marriott 2003 Buick Regal 1983 300D (228k, frau Auto) 1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000) www.engineeringworks.biz 1987 300SDL junker 170k 1982 300SD junker, 265k |
#2
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Too much vacuum?
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1985 500SL Euro w/ AMG bits 130k 1984 300SD Turbodiesel 192k 1980 240D Stick China 188k 2001 CLK55 AMG 101k 2007 S600 Biturbo 149k Overheated Project, IT'S ALIVE!!! |
#3
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Try screwing in your T in the modulator valve, or better still check and adjust the trans fluid pressure. There is a thread on the proper way to do this.
If that doesnt help the flaring problem then you may have look a bit deeper. If it has been doing it for 10 or 20k miles like that and being driven in conditions with a lot of gear changing, the trans clutches may be in very bad shape.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#4
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First thing I would do is plug the vacuum to the transmission to see if the shifts firm up. Depending on what happens, that would at least rule out vacuum problems.
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#5
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Quote:
You mean unplug the vacuum to the transmission, that's what I did with mine and it sure firmed things up a bit. |
#6
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nick,
It sounds like your trans needs a modulator adjustment with the T. A flare on changes will soon destroy clutch packs.
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort.... 1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles 1987 250td 160k miles English import 2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles 1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving |
#7
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I wish you would of told me this a month ago! I got things straightened out, thanks though I appreciate it.
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#8
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Hi folks,
Thanks for the replies so far. In my first post I noted that unhooking the bowden and vacuum connections did NOTHING. I expected whiplash shifts with no vacuum, but they're still equally squishy. Any other ideas? Is it possible that a spring(s) kit might help, or is this likely an internal problem. I've been inside a few of these 722.3 trannys for band, seal, and B2 work, but I never experienced one that was so mushy on all shifts.
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James Marriott 2003 Buick Regal 1983 300D (228k, frau Auto) 1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000) www.engineeringworks.biz 1987 300SDL junker 170k 1982 300SD junker, 265k |
#9
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One thing is for sure: if it's not an internal problem, a spring kit certainly won't help.
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#10
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sticky modulator? try giving a small bit of pressure on the transmission line to "break" it free if that's the problem.. small things first man
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#11
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You need to tighten the Bowden cable to get later (and tighter) shifts. Disconnecting it does the opposite. A loose Bowden cable will give you a lot of flare.
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