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  #16  
Old 01-31-2010, 02:04 PM
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Problem = short in the cord - somewhere in the first 6-7 inches toward the plug. Spliced in a new plug, soldered connections, covered each of the three splices with heat shrink tubing, replaced the full length sheath, zip tied cord so it wouldn't swing around in the engine bay, plugged it in and immediately heard the sweet sizzle of the heating element.

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  #17  
Old 01-31-2010, 02:06 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by connerm View Post
Problem = short in the cord - somewhere in the first 6-7 inches toward the plug. Spliced in a new plug, soldered connections, covered each of the three splices with heat shrink tubing, replaced the full length sheath, zip tied cord so it wouldn't swing around in the engine bay, plugged it in and immediately heard the sweet sizzle of the heating element.
Good deal.
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  #18  
Old 02-01-2010, 01:44 PM
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Your findings prove how extremely nice it is to know what the proper resistance of an item is supposed to be.

The finding of a .3 ohm connection where it should have been ~36 ohms would sure lead to an almost dead short.

Good job in repair ! Shrink tube or even two layers of it is a very long lived repair.
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  #19  
Old 02-01-2010, 04:15 PM
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I just read 31 ohms on mine. Temp gauge was just shy of 80*c This is on my '83 300CD. Will measure again in a few hours when it cools down.
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  #20  
Old 02-01-2010, 06:36 PM
Craig
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Originally Posted by nickofoxford View Post
I just read 31 ohms on mine. Temp gauge was just shy of 80*c This is on my '83 300CD. Will measure again in a few hours when it cools down.
I'm guessing the reading will be slightly lower when it's cold, maybe 30 ohms. Your reading of 31 ohms corresponds to about 465 W at 120 V.

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