Thanks....I will start a new thread with the same question.

Thats a wise idea, you'll likely get more responses that way. Welcome to the forum by the way!

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Purchased an '82 euro td wagon with sagging rear - pump was replaced at some point but reservoir dry! I filled system and had some results but then noticed accumulators were shot, replaced those and voila! Also replaced SLS valve with used valve and linkage arm and adjusted to neutral position. I then measured center of wheel emblem to fender lip and noticed slow settling overnight but as I drove car, it seemed to improve. I added a seal conditioner (non petrol based) to swell any dry seals and so far, things look great! I am not a big fan of "mechanic in a bottle" but I have had several successes in the past and thought I would give this a try. I will most likely flush and refill in a few more months as fluid is over a year old and I want to see if I can maintain cleaner looking fluid as a result of a better sealed system. SLS is fairly simply but I can understand why it people run from it as components are expensive. One member sells SLS valve reseal kit with great instructions - my struts appear to be in great shape and ride is wonderful versus the drive home when I first purchased this wagon -my experience, thanks

Is it the same pump as used on the 190E 16? If so I have a used one.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

It is mentioned above that the system self bleeds. Most of this talk is about the W123. Does the W124 also bleed like this? If the bleeding process is automatic with system operation, what is the bleeder on the top of the SLS valve for?

I just replaced my accumulators and am looking for what else I need to do to get the system functional.

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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project.
83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive)
84 300SD Daily driver
85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily.
98 E300D *sold
86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home.

That bleed fitting is probably there just to bleed pressure of the system in order to work on it. Same as the 123.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Hi,

I´m having a problem with my SLS.

The car rises whem fully load, everything works fine.
Except when I hit a bump or something similar. It feels hard, it´s like when we ride with bad shock in front. The springs go down but it´s not smooth.

What could it be?
Bad rubber bush? The Shock? The accumulator? The Valve?

Thanks in advance
Vasco

Accumulators. It's almost always the accumulators.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I second that.

I never really though about it before but it's funny that the same part can result in two different very symptoms when it goes bad. Hard ride or really bouncy ride. They must fail in two ways. Not sure how though.

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What I've heard is when the diaphragm fails, initially the nitrogen mixes with the hydraulic fluid, forming bubbles that make the ride bouncy for the same reason your brakes get spongy when they need bleeding. Eventually the bubbles purge out and then the ride gets hard, because all the compliance is gone from the system.

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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png

I´ve check the rear axle, and found that a suspension arm is kaput.
Thank You!

please take pictures of what you found and post them here!
WE LOVE PICTURES

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 560SL convertible
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Swap the cylinder heads.

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1984 300TD Turbodiesel - 272k
- Daily Duty
1985 300D Turbodiesel - 315k
- "Recommended for competition events only"

New member to forum, was really happy to see such a complete write up on W123 SLS. While the SLS is functionally similar in W124, are the leveling valves (and repair) the same? My '87 300TD SLS jacked the rear end up as for a heavy load, even though there was no load, after only 432K miles. I read your (Biodiesel300TD) troubleshooting guide, but didn't find a "rear end jacked up and rides like shocks are bad" write up. D you have a guess as to what my problem might be? Do you have a kit for W124 valve (if that's the problem)? Do you offer rebuild service? Thanks for your help, David E

Unfortunately the 124 valves are not rebuildable. They aren't designed to come apart like the 123 valves are. You can get to some of the o-rings but not all of them. If the rear is riding high all the time I'd look at the connecting rod between the valve lever arm and the sway bar. It may have become disconnected and so the lever arm dropped down, making the valve think the rear is sitting low so it's compensating. If this is the case your car is sitting at its max height and probably riding bad because of it.

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