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  #76  
Old 04-19-2015, 10:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
I'd like to know if anyone has thought of a clever way to properly adjust the length of the control rod (between SLS control valve lever and the rear sway bar). The FSM calls for some special tools I'm not particularly inclined to purchase.

I've got an '87 wagon and the original rod ends rotted out. Purchasing just the new ends was far cheaper than getting an entire new rod.
I was just trying to adjust the level on my 85' wagon and the ends (little ball and socket things) were allowing so much play that adjustment had almost no effect. Where did you buy the ends?
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  #77  
Old 08-17-2015, 08:01 PM
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Is there a way to tell if the rear not rising is a failed pump internally or the leveling valve? Both these days are $400.

I see fluid returning to the reservoir but there doesn't seem to be a volume test in the mb manual so how can I tell if the correct pressure is there?
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  #78  
Old 06-22-2017, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Maxbumpo View Post
I'd like to know if anyone has thought of a clever way to properly adjust the length of the control rod (between SLS control valve lever and the rear sway bar). The FSM calls for some special tools I'm not particularly inclined to purchase.

I've got an '87 wagon and the original rod ends rotted out. Purchasing just the new ends was far cheaper than getting an entire new rod.
On W123, it's just a turnbuckle. Any suitable wrench will do. One direction will lengthen, the other shorten.
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  #79  
Old 09-23-2017, 01:54 PM
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SLS valve rebuild kit

the OP doesn't seem to be on this forum anymore, and the links to the repair kit aren't working for me. Pelican Parts has a nice article on rebuilding the valve, but no kit (only one for the pump). Does anyone know where to obtain one for the valve?
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  #80  
Old 09-23-2017, 11:26 PM
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Originally Posted by doofus View Post
the OP doesn't seem to be on this forum anymore, and the links to the repair kit aren't working for me. Pelican Parts has a nice article on rebuilding the valve, but no kit (only one for the pump). Does anyone know where to obtain one for the valve?
M####source.com has a kit. It's great and includes everything you need. just rebuilt mine last week.
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  #81  
Old 09-25-2017, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgnimj96 View Post
I was just trying to adjust the level on my 85' wagon and the ends (little ball and socket things) were allowing so much play that adjustment had almost no effect. Where did you buy the ends?
From the MB Classic Center in California.
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  #82  
Old 09-25-2017, 09:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moon161 View Post
On W123, it's just a turnbuckle. Any suitable wrench will do. One direction will lengthen, the other shorten.
Yes! That is not the answer to my question: What is the correct length? The FSM procedure calls for some special tools, which Stretch could probably fabricate in 35 minutes with yardsticks and a laser pointer and an old jack, but I'm not nearly as clever and determined as he...
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'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #83  
Old 09-25-2017, 10:13 AM
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The length is the length. What matters is ride height. Measure on a flat surface. Then adjust the turnbuckle until it's right. Longer if it's low, shorter if high.

I'll tell you a trick I used to get it set in one shot, but don't come crying to me if you break your arm. Remove the turnbuckle entirely. Then rig a long stiff wire to work the valve manually. Start the car and work the valve. Once the ride height is where you want it, set the turnbuckle so that it snaps into place with no tension. Just be aware that the hydraulic system can lift or drop the entire weight of the car at scary speed. So if you try this, don't hurt yourself. You must figure a gimmick that will let you work the valve without having any part of your body under the car.
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  #84  
Old 09-25-2017, 01:52 PM
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What is the correct ride height? 1987 300TD.

The issue is that setting the ride height too high will increase the hydraulic pressure that the control valve must hold, and that increased pressure will eventually cause the valve to fail if the ride height is set too high. New control valves are $$$, so I'd rather find the "too high" setting before I need a new control valve.
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M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #85  
Old 09-25-2017, 02:30 PM
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You're not going to blow out the valve, but I'll let that be. The ride height measurements should be in the FSM.
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  #86  
Old 09-26-2017, 02:06 PM
WTB: 94/95 E320 Wagon
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mxfrank View Post
The ride height measurements should be in the FSM.
It is, and it is measured with special tools that I don't have. That is exactly the dilemma.
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Respectfully,
/s/
M. Dillon
'87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~380k miles, 3.5l IP fitted
'95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 379k miles
'73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification"
Charleston SC
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  #87  
Old 05-01-2018, 03:33 PM
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SLS valve reseal kit

Hi all

Does anyone know where to obtain just the seal kit for the sls valve? Don't
need the more expensive complete overhaul kit.

Regards
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