Konstan's 1982 300D Engine Out Thread - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

konstan · #1 03-01-2010, 01:14 AM

Great progress to report: the engine has officially been removed!

The original goal was to find out what causes the knocking in the #1 cylinder. So, ... what do I do next:

- Disconnect the transmission?
- Get to the rod bearings (how?)
- Remove the complete oil pan

I do have the mbusa cd-rom manual...

jt20 · #2 03-01-2010, 01:22 AM

well, I'll be J. Edgah Hoovah... he gone 'n dun it.....

Guess you'll be 'tearing this down'?

as mentioned in your previous thread, if you take the head off, push from above and below on each piston to 'inspect' the wrist pin bushings.

The Upper pan comes off pretty easy. Once you get all the bolts out, it will not want to come off.. it is glued on. Give it a few gentle whacks with a piece of wood or plastic hammer in the direction you would pull it off.

rod bearings are all accessible after removing the upper pan and oil pump.

good luck! and congrats. Hope the knock is remediable.

edit* I think I see why your engine was knocking.... yeah, the cruise actuator isn't plugged in. Better get that straightened out.

ps - please use a more stable setting on your cherry picker next time.... very scary.

tbomachines · #3 03-01-2010, 12:04 PM

Your engine lift arm is bending, be real careful

vstech · #4 03-01-2010, 12:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tbomachines

Your engine lift arm is bending, be real careful

the arm looks straight to me.
it's seriously too far extended for the weight on the thing, but it does not appear to be bent.
the 1/4 ton setting would be for a 4cylinder gas motor only... 500lbs is not much weight.
the motor alone is 650 lbs dry. with all the stuff on it, and the transmission I would not go below 1/2 ton... preferably 3/4!

you should pull the arm out of the sleve, and take a picture of the end. I bet you have some stretched metal, if not cracked...

tbomachines · #5 03-01-2010, 12:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

the arm looks straight to me.
it's seriously too far extended for the weight on the thing, but it does not appear to be bent.
the 1/4 ton setting would be for a 4cylinder gas motor only... 500lbs is not much weight.
the motor alone is 650 lbs dry. with all the stuff on it, and the transmission I would not go below 1/2 ton... preferably 3/4!

you should pull the arm out of the sleve, and take a picture of the end. I bet you have some stretched metal, if not cracked...

It looks bent to me, right at the end of the sleeve, which is what I meant...my engine lift nomenclature is not up to par with you guys

konstan · #6 03-01-2010, 01:43 PM

There is a little flaring there; I am going to have some welds added there to strengthen it before I use it again to put the motor back in.

Switched to 1/2 ton setting, sorry didnt mean to frighten y'all

konstan · #7 03-01-2010, 11:15 PM

Here is a pic of its other side. Yea its really dirty.

rrgrassi · #8 03-01-2010, 12:37 PM

If you are going to remove the crank, you will need the tranny separated...

I would remove the tranny anyway just to put the engine on a stand.

jt20 · #9 03-01-2010, 12:39 PM

yes.

Take the trans off.

separate it from engine by pulling parallel with the crankshaft

tbomachines · #10 03-04-2010, 01:23 AM

Great pictures Konstan, been keeping up with this thread...good luck with your work!

MS Fowler · #11 03-09-2010, 06:24 AM

This is where the commercial would be inserted.
You have us all teased up and ready.
Come on.

jt20 · #12 03-09-2010, 12:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by konstan

- take off the compressor and put it away; i don't think this car is going to get a/c any time soon
- put duct tape over the in/ex ports

With the engine out, it is so much easier to remove the a/c lines completely from the vehicle.

You can easily block off the ports where they enter the firewall. I suggest doing it now... sincerely.

konstan · #13 03-10-2010, 11:34 PM

Power washed the engine:

Took off the alternator and the a/c compressor, and the remaining allen bolts and the two nuts/studs (one came out with the stud).

The pan is loose but I need to beat the ***** out of the dipstick tube to "knock it out", and I also may have to completely remove the bracket that held the a/c compressor.

DeliveryValve · #14 03-10-2010, 11:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by konstan

...
The pan is loose but I need to beat the ***** out of the dipstick tube to "knock it out", and I also may have to completely remove the bracket that held the a/c compressor.

You can leave the tube on. Just remove the a/c bracket to get it out of the way.

.

kerry · #15 03-11-2010, 12:51 AM

Jeeeezuz man. Women may enjoy a long drawn out foreplay, but we are men here. Get down to the real business.