For all those who upgraded their alternators, what is the KL spade terminal between the B+ and D+ pole on this alternator for? Is it for capacitor/condenser? This alternator is a 150Amp Bosch AL0768X, MB#: 011 154 3202, Bosch# 0123 520 017. Thanks is advance!

Wish me luck! I'm going to take a plunge and this is going to be transplnted into a 617.952, '85 300D Turbo.

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

I don't know; but these folks would:
Alternators Unlimited in Berkeley.
They are friendly and smart, give em a shout, I bet they help you out.

Family run rebuilders since the '30s, and can custom your alternator as well. When I last sought one, I paid $80 here, and 5 years later she goes strong.

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Think Alternative Energy!
300CD '80 (now gone but not forgotten...)

150 AMP! You can sell power back to the grid with that thing... wow

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Cheers!
Scott McPhee

1987 300D

Anyone else out there with an upgraded alt in a 85 300SD ? Question , comments ?
Alan

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92 500E Silver 66k
82 Porsche 911SC 84K
68 Cadillac ( Gone Now )
03 Suburban Z71 200K
85 300SD 217k From Original Owner ( Dad )

the advantage to using a larger alt is not for massive use of electrical parts in the car, it's so at idle the alternator can maintain amperage to charge the battery.
rarely will the alternator ever put out more than 40 or so amps.
unless you are adding heavy electrical loads to the car, upgrading the wiring to the alternator is not needed with a high amp alternator. they only put out the amperage that is pulled. also, the 150 amp alt will have minor wear with our light loads!

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

output for Tachometer on Petrol engine versions.

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'84 300SD sold
124.128

I just installed that Saab style. Mine came from here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MERCEDES-ALTERNATOR-DIESEL-240D-300D-74-80-81-82-120AMP-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e22a3900QQitemZ360276703488QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

Eagleautoelectric on ol' feebay.



I have afterglow on my Diesels, ECE headlights, better stereo, etc. Worthwhile modification for me all things considered.

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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]

Interesting!!! What is the Bosch Part # of that 120 Amp. alternator?

The Saab's AL129X is 115 Amps. and MB's AL69X is just 80 Amps.

What about this 120 Amps?

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'85 300D Turbo - CA Version

I just installed an AL129X in my 84 300SD. The small bolt and the spade terminal next to it seemed to be directly connected. I got zero resistance using an ohmmeter. I'd expect this would translate directly to your alternator.

Couple of pointers. 6ga stranded copper will fit into an 8ga copper crimp lug. Then you can solder the wire into the lug which will provide a superior and permanent connection. I think the correct screw hole is 5/16 for the alternator side, and 3/16 for the terminal strip side.

The small wire connects to the small screw lug, and could also be terminated for the spade lug. I used the screw terminal, and everything works just fine.

Only issue I had was the need to clock the housing so that access to the terminals was optimal. The best way to do this is remove the regulator then remove the four housing bolts. This will allow you to separate the two parts of the housing (front and rear) to rotate one relative to the other.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

I don't recommend soldering unless it is first crimped. Solder is a dissimilar metal, which can eventually de-laminate from the copper lug (I've seen it on battery and ground lugs), also note that solder has a higher resistance than copper, a direct mechanical connection is best with a good crimper.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

You do realize, of course, that almost all the connectors in your car are soldered and none of them were crimped first, right?.

It would seem that you are suggesting either to crimp and solder or simply crimp without soldering for the best joint, since soldering without crimping can lead to delamination.

A cold solder joint is another matter, but I'd assume that you are comparing a proper crimp to a proper solder joint. I've never seen nor heard of a properly formed solder joint delaminating. I've seen plenty of cold joints where there was either contaminants in the joint (not cleaned properly prior to soldering), not enough heat was applied to flow the solder properly on all connection areas, or a connection was moved when cooling. I've never seen it but was trained not to blow on a solder joint to cool it since a joint that is cooled too quickly or unevenly can be a source of failure. (Years ago I was ISO 9001 certified in soldering and circuit card repair, so I have a little experience in this arena.)

I agree that the best solder joints begin with a mechanical connection between the parts. So a wire may be wound around a pin or stud before soldering to it instead of just laying the wire up against it. The goal is to have solid contact between the two materials before soldering. A 6ga wire in an 8ga lug has plenty of contact. Normally one would 'tin' the wire before soldering. I tried that first but it added too much diameter to allow the wire to enter the lug. So the mechanical side of the joint is pretty much there to begin with. Since the 6ga wire barely fits into the 8ga lug, I'm not sure how much deformation you could get if you tried to crimp it. Besides that, a tool to crimp that size lug is not in too many people's tool box. (I know it's not in mine.) And it would take a _huge_ amount of solder to fill in the space between a 6ga wire and a 6ga crimp lug.

An additional benefit of soldering over a crimp is the greatly increased surface area that conducts the current between the wire and terminal. Soldering the wire into the lug in this instance provides an incredibly strong joint with excellent conductive properties.

A crimp is a simple mechanical connection that exposes a portion of the connection to the atmosphere. Oxidation and corrosion can occur in the connection especially when exposed to the salt and water of winter driving. On top of that they are not as mechanically sound. Twist a crimp connection and the wires will shift around into more optimal positions in response to the stress imposed on them, which results in a looser connection. Vibration can produce the same results. I've seen many more crimps fail than solder joints.

You mention that solder has higher resistance than copper and you are correct. I think it is about ten times as high as copper. Solder would not make a worthwhile conductor if you wanted to wire your house with it. It is the length of the run and the circumference of the conductors that make a difference in that case. Solder connections, though, are fractions of a millimeter at most. The amount of resistance added to the circuit is on the order of .0001 ohms, and takes special equipment to measure accurately. If you pumped a thousand amps through it you would see a 0.1 volt drop.

Sorry for the rant. Must be getting old and crotchety.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

Sorry, didn't mean to ruffle your feathers.

In high-current automotive and marine, crimped is the answer, it's what you'll find in the high-quality stuff. When we recently built a boat with twin diesels, the marina had all of the crimping supplies, and I happened to have plenty of tinned-copper crimp-lugs from Broward Marine, ... seems that crimped lugs are also good enough for 100'+ motoryachts in salt-water environments. Boat builders used to solder, found that it would fail eventually. I have also had soldered-lug failure on motorcoaches, crimps just don't fail. If the wire is going to flex at the joint, that's a bad design with any connection method, stress relief is necessary to prevent this.

If you are talking about electronics, I agree, solder is the way. On this stuff though, solder makes a fine sealer if that's what you want, but the crimped mechanical connection should be made first.

Oh and I've been soldering since The Beatles were popular, when DYNACO made some really cool amplifier kits and you could build your own oscilloscope (I think mine was an Eico 460?). No rookie here, just found a better way for some applications.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff

Point well made.

The Beatles were popular when I was helping my dad with resistor codes. He is colorblind and I had to help him when he was building ham radios. Made a few kits myself, but can't remember what any of them were.

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mjk

'84 300SD 119KMi (Liesl der Diesel)
'84 300D 326KMi when the oil left (former parts car)
'82 300SD 253KMi (new parts car)

Boats are like airplanes in that you crimp vice solder connectors because of vibration.

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1992 300D 305+K miles
1978 240D Sold

I was a ham, got my tech. license looooong ago, could pretty much run any transmission eqipment on earth with a tech license back then. Can you still?

No ham equipment here, just the occasional bout with a CB on steroids when I need traffic info from the truckers.

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Gone to the dark side

- Jeff