Haven't tried yet, I need to get a metal filer. What I did in the mean time was file down the corners of my wrenches. This allowed me to get at the locking nut.

There are a couple of good sides that I can attach the wrench onto now. Comparing the locking to adjusting nut reveals that it is all wonky.

Time to march to the barn in the cold to find some longer needle nose pliers. The ones I have are bent at the tip, but there's just not enough grip on the pliers.

I've been spinning the adjusting nut, loosening the nut, and then moving the entire locking nut upwards and repeating this procedure. It may not make much sense while i'm describing it, but it's working so far.

What would be the procedure for getting at this nut? I was looking at the nut on the rocker tower and I'm quite tempted to just pull the whole thing out and replace the thing.

Also how bad would a loose valve of .35 mm be

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

If exhaust valve, it would be ok. Intake, not so good.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D

Just my bloody luck.

Exhaust locking nut, meet Mr. Dremel.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

Hey everyone I have good news!

I was able to reshape the nut enough to grab onto it and adjust the valve. It was really difficult and I did not like have to position my dremel between the injector lines and other sensitive stuff.

However the fruit of my labor is gold! I am now .152mm. Since I am only .05mm off from spec I am going to leave it since I'm pretty sure messing with it further will just be a waste of my time.

I do however want to replace the locking nuts on both intake valves on cylinder 1 and 2.

Would the procedure to do that be simply to unbolt the rocker pad tower and pull it out? From what I can see it is that easy. From there I should have enough clearance to unscrew the adjusting bolt and I can remove the locking nut.

I need to hunt for my FSM (flying spaghetti monster) and browse EPC. I plan to do this operation in May when I am back from school.

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.

WARNING....
Do not mess with the rocker tower until you find that FSM !!!

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1980 240d ,

chain elongation, cam marks reference:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html

evap fin cleaning:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator

A/C thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html

Thanks leather. That project is going to wait until May and I may have my mechanic do it since such a procedure is pushing into the "if I make a mistake I won't be able to fix it" territory.

Fixing a dropped valve is way beyond my mechanical expertise

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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone.