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#1
03-14-2010, 11:42 PM
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300D Turbo Help Please
I just bought an 83 300D and was driving it home and it just quit on me. I had it towed home. One of the injectors was loose and leaking, I tightened it up and replaced the fuel filters. The small one was nasty. I replaced the worn Fuel Return lines and it still will not start. I checked the air intake...maybe a mouse or something got in there??? No, it is clear all the way to the turbo. I have no idea what the next move is. I was getting up on the interstate and it only got up to 40 and then just loss power...like there was no fuel...and then to idle, then died. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Scott
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#2
03-14-2010, 11:47 PM
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It sounds like your filters were clogged. Did you fill the spin on filter with diesel before you put it on? And did you use the primer pump until your arm was ready to fall off? You may still have air in the system.
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Andrew '04 Jetta TDI Wagon  '82 300TD ~ Winnie ~ Sold '77 300D ~ Sold
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#3
03-14-2010, 11:50 PM
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Make sure there is no air in the system. Pump the primer pump, crack open the last return line. Did you replace both filters? The spin on one you need to make sure you prefill with fuel.
The in tank strainer could be plugged also. The primer pump could be shot and could be an air leak.
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1959 Gravely LI, 1963 Gravely L8, 1973 Gravely C12 1982 380SL 1978 450 SEL 6.9 euro restoration at 63% and climbing 1987 300 D 2005 CDI European Delivery 2006 CDI Handed down to daughter 2007 GL CDI. Wifes 
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#4
03-15-2010, 12:33 AM
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These guys are right on. It sounds like your fuel filters plugged, so you changed them. Good so far. Next you have to prime the fuel system. The primer pump works very well for this. That will get the injector pump full of fuel like it's supposed to be. If it still doesn't start after that, there are a couple of possibilities. Primer pumps sometimes go bad and start sucking air, and it's also possible you may have the IP full of fuel, but air in the injection lines. In that case, you crack (loosen slightly) the nuts holding the injector lines to the injectors and then crank the engine over. If fuel comes out at a given line, that one is good. If not, let the starter cool for a while and repeat. Sometimes this takes a while.
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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar. 83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 401,xxx miles 08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 26,xxx miles 88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress. 99 Mazda Miata 183,xxx miles.
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#5
03-15-2010, 12:39 AM
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Scott, Welcome to the forum and the 300D. Where are you located? Good chance a helpful forum member is near by and would help you sort this out.
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Charles 1983 300D, bought new, 215k+ miles, donated to Purple Hearts veterans charity but I have parts for sale: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-cars-sale/296386-fs-1-owner-83-mb-300d-turbo-rebuild-parts.html
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#6
03-15-2010, 07:11 AM
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I live in Nashville, TN. I am just a bit frustrated and did not sleep much last night. I did not fill the screw on filter with fuel prior to putting it on. That was dumb huh? I will work on the car today starting at the Fuel Tank screen and working my way forward. ...I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for the suggestions. I am on it. Scott
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#7
03-15-2010, 11:43 AM
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You just bought it and it had a loose injector... sounds like the previous owner..PO.. also had fuel issues.
Id sure suggest the 'in tank' strainer / filter as the source of the issue. Do you have an under the hood filter ? and if so, is the fuel in there clear ? If no to both... here is a very precise thread on how to clean the tank, strainer and fuel lines. Its more grunt work than hard and is where I would first be heading. Pictorial on Fuel Tank Removal and Reinstall http://dieselgiant.com/Mercedesfueltankremoval.htm
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
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#8
03-15-2010, 02:55 PM
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To make sure you have your injector leak fixed, I would run a supply and return line into a jar under the hood first, after filling the secondary filter w/diesel. That way you can run the engine without be connected to the tank.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D
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#9
03-15-2010, 04:36 PM
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I have ordered a new tank screen and fuel lines for the back of the car, and a new primer pump, as it leaks horribly when it is used. That may be where I am getting air into the system I am going to take the fuel tank out of the car and clean it, put it back in. That way I know that it has been done and is good to go. The parts will be in on Wednesday and I will keep everyone posted to the progress. Thanks so much of all of the help so far. You have all been great. Scott
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#10
03-15-2010, 05:17 PM
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1st stop now needs to be at a high pressure wash place or a truck stop steam cleaner.
You will find there are decades of experience here and folks are very willing to help. In my time on line its one of the best and most responsive forums I have encountered.
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1985 300D 198K sold 1982 300D 202K 1989 300E 125K 1992 940T "If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it" "The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."
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#12
03-15-2010, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Walmart. Target. Lowes. Best of luck. Let us know how this works out.
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85 300D 3 pedal. Current project. 83 300TD (need rear wiper assembly dead or alive) 84 300SD Daily driver 85 300TD almost 400k miles and driven daily. 98 E300D *sold 86 300SDL *sold and made flawless 10 hour journey to new home. 
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#13
03-15-2010, 05:11 PM
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Did you also buy a new O-ring for the Tank Screen (I do not know if a new one comes with the O-ring).
While the Tank Screen is out you can grind off the Collar that crimps on the Fuel Outlet hose (unless it looks new). After that yank off the Old hose and replace it with some hose from the Autoparts store and a hose clamp. Hose SAE 30R7 on the hose; is commonly sold at regular auto parts stores and is rated for Diesel Fuel. Fuel Delivery links Diesel Fuel Delivery: Ounce are gets between the Fuel Injection Pump and the Injectors you might easily kill your Battery trying to get the Air out. The slution is after you have primed your Fuel Supply System; lossen the Fuel Injection Line Nuts at the Injectors and crank your Engine until Fuel comes out. This allows a way for the Air to Escape. (You might need to do the same thing if you run completely out of Fuel on the Road some where; keep a 17mm wrench in the Trunk.)
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel Last edited by Diesel911; 03-15-2010 at 05:18 PM.
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#14
03-22-2010, 01:00 PM
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Check the seal around the fuel cap.
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83 SD 84 CD
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#15
03-22-2010, 01:53 PM
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Still having some issues.
Yep, the filler cap and seal is good. I have the tank out now. I reinstalled the screen and the "O" ring and tightened it with a big pipe wrench and used plumbers tape on the threads this time. The gasket that goes on the passenger side at the bottom of the tank had slipped when I put the tank in last time and that is why I ended up with a trunk full of diesel fuel. I have cleaned that gasket and I will ensure that it dries well before I try to put the tank back in again. Maybe I didn't get the screen in tight enough (I thought I did) and the diesel fuel was trickling out and running along the bottom of the tank to the drivers side and pooling up there. The Vapor line and return line were dry, so I know that those lines were on there good. Do you guys think this may be it?
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