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#16
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No no you silly goose http://www.epatest.com/609/manual/ Once you open up the PDF just use CTRL-F to find your answers It'll search the entire booklet.
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#17
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OK, LOL, very true...
But instead of just searching for what they think they need to know.. if everyone who has AC would just read it from front to back ONCE... our AC help on the forum would be a LOT easier...and people would save a lot of money not making mistakes..
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/10414-help-i-need-check-stretch.html http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#18
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Eventually, I would like to get my AC working in my car. Thankfully the PO found where the leak was (compressor) so my job is rather easy!
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#19
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And you are going to BET how much money/labor on the fact that that was the ONLY leak ... LOL
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#20
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Quote:
Northwestern Pennsylvania is heaven in the summer time unlike oppressive Texas
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-Typos courtesy of my mobile phone. |
#21
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Since we know you know where the EPA test is...
do you know what the EPA allows you to do to test for a leak....? possibly saving you from having to replace a lot of valuable refrigerant ? HINT : it has to do with four ounces of R22 and being able to legally vent that to the atmosphere after doing a sniffer test for leaks.... OOOOPPPPPPsss... that was too much of a hint...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#22
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I'll get the certification and find some. Are there any stores in Maryland near Andrews AIR Force Base the have the cans in stock. I'll have to do the research a little later.
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1995 E420 152k 1991 300D 2.5 348116 daily driver 1992 300E 2.6 196k-work in progress(head gasket) 2002 BMW 745Li 93k |
#23
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That is a good plan... both cost and time wise...
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1980 240d , chain elongation, cam marks reference: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?threadid=10414 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/305365-9-degrees-chain-stretch.html evap fin cleaning: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/156207-photo-step-step-post-showing-w123-evaporator-removal-1983-240d-1982-300td.html?highlight=evaporator A/C thread http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/297462-c-recommendations-mb-vehicles.html |
#24
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I have paid under $300 for both of my 30lb tanks. Your pricing is way off. You just need to buy in the off season and know where to look. AND, if you do the math per POUND (16oz) of R12, it is nearly a wash seeing as you need just less than 3lbs for your vehicle, or four cans. I saw 12oz cans of 134A at the local auto store for about $9 last time I was there. I would not go thru the hassle of a 134A conversion that will cool less to save maybe $50 on refrigerant. If you are on that tight of a budget, skip something else once a month to make up the difference... it IS worth it to retain R12. I tried a replacement in one of my cars as it was leaking and was not too impressed with its low speed cooling ability.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#25
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AHEM, check your PM box. (upper right corner)
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
#26
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There, now I'm certified!
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Michael LaFleur '05 E320 CDI - 86,000 miles '86 300SDL - 360,000 miles '85 300SD - 150,000 miles (sold) '89 190D - 120,000 miles (sold) '85 300SD - 317,000 miles (sold) '98 ML320 - 270,000 miles (sold) '75 300D - 170,000 miles (sold) '83 Harley Davidson FLTC (Broken again) :-( '61 Plymouth Valiant - 60k mikes 2004 Papillon (Oliver) 2005 Tzitzu (Griffon) 2009 Welsh Corgi (Buba) |
#27
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I haven't read the whole thread, but I saw the title and I felt that I needed to chime in Sorry if I am stating the obvious here.
I filled out the application and the test several years back and I am R-12 certified. I have, however, never bought any R12 because by then it was already so expensive that it wasn't worth it. Checking into the price of the new receiver/dryer and even a new compressor, it made it obvious that converting to R134a is the way to go. I have successfully converted two of my vehicles to R134a: a 1982 Toyota pickup and a 1993 Ford Explorer. There is nothing to it. On the Explorer, I had to replace the expansion valve (a $3 plastic piece). On both of them, I had to replace all the o-rings. Basically you unscrew everything and replace all the black o-rings with the green ones. You will need (buy or borrow) a cheap Harbor Freight manifold, some cans of R134a and a can or two of PAG oil. Buy the oil and the refrigerant at Walmart. To evacuate the system (pump out all the air) you borrow a vacuum pump at O'Reilly or AutoZone. The whole job takes a couple of hours. Be sure to replace the receiver/dryer, and if the A/C compressor is suspect, they are cheap - the Mercedes A/C compressors for the U.S. imports were the cheap GM ones. Finally, about the "R12" substitites. There aren't any. There are some that have a mix of R134 and propane gas (yes, propane), and that's downright dangerous. Convert to R134a.
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'82 300D (project) '46 Willys (project) "Nothing seems to be the way it should in this garage." -jt20 "Smarter than an engine, dumber than a hoodlatch..." -jt20 "Start jumping up and down to smoosh down those engine mounts" -DeliveryValve "no" -kerry "At this rate, you may have it done by winter" -layback40 |
#28
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R134a is flammable as well isn't it?
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#29
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I have some R12 for $25 a 12oz can. I know I'll never 'get rich' but if I find a good deal I pass it on.
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1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
#30
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Not under conditions that you are likely to experience.
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