Time requirement for injector removal - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

JHZR2 · #1 06-04-2010, 10:48 AM

Hi,

Anyone have an estimate of the amount of time it would take a first-timer to remove the injectors from a 617.952? I have recently acquired the two hazet tools, for the injector and the hard lines.

it seems straightforward enough, and there are DIY threads when searched, but I'd love a guesstimate of the time to do all five inectors.

Also, any last-minute tips? How do you deal with the diesel fuel that is bound to leak? How much can I expect? What is best used to plug the injector holes when they are out for refurbishment?

Anything to be concerned with if they have not been removed on a 160k engine?

Thanks!

Manual Life · #2 06-04-2010, 11:02 AM

Just rebuilt mine at 150k and removal, not removal then rebuild then install, shouldn't take a novice more than hour. They can all be out in about 10 minutes if you have experience.

1) I'd remove the hard lines altogether. This does not have to be done but is easier. just put them in order when you place them somewhere.

2) If you haven't replaced the nylon/rubber return lines you're going to need to do that. they are going to break upon removal. 4ft of line is adequate.

3) cover the open holes with a shop towel. i didn't cover mine and there were no problems.

4) buy new heat shields for the injectors

5) a breaker bar was what i used to get them out. it was very easy and i didn't need a swivel

6) unbolt the throttle linkage for the valve cover. makes life easier

Graplr · #3 06-04-2010, 11:46 AM

Just to get them out? No more than 1/2 hour tops. If you are rebuilding the same injectors then it will take longer. If you have new injectors ready to go you should be in and out in under an hour.

It is easiest with the injector lines removed. If you want to put a plastic bag over the IP, fine, I guess I never felt the need to when removing the lines. Very little fuel comes out of the lines. IMO, not enough to worry about anything other than having a paper towel nearby.

Like was mentioned if you use a breaker bar on the injectors they come loose real quick. The heat shields take more time to get out than the injectors themselves. I used a pair of needlenose pliers to break them loose and then a magnetic tool picker-upper to get them out. Some come out with out breaking loose and just the magnetic tool.

This would be a good time to change out the injector return lines as well.

I guess the rule is to make sure the injector area is as clean as possible BEFORE you remove the injectors, not after.

vstech · #4 06-04-2010, 11:52 AM

and one important point about injector removal.
have the socket lined up and solid on the injector body, and POP the breaker bar. do not use steady pressure. you can loosen the PC rings if you do. that'll require an expensive tool to replace!!!
POP the Breaker bar on the injectors.

jt20 · #5 06-04-2010, 12:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

and one important point about injector removal.
have the socket lined up and solid on the injector body, and POP the breaker bar. do not use steady pressure. you can loosen the PC rings if you do. that'll require an expensive tool to replace!!!
POP the Breaker bar on the injectors.

if you're not careful this could cause damage to the overflow nipples.

Diesel911 · #6 06-04-2010, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jt20

if you're not careful this could cause damage to the overflow nipples.

If the above happens it is because the Socket is not deep enough. Nothing inside of the Socket should be touching the Nipples of the Injector.

The Craftsman Deep socket below (1-1/16") is deep all the way to the end and does not touch the Nipples. I have been using it on Injectors and other things since 1975 with no issues at all.

The cheapie deep sockets have a ring of metal at the top with a circular hole that the threaded end of the Injector goes into and the Nipples tend to ride on top of that metal that is arround the hole.

JHZR2 · #7 06-06-2010, 11:46 PM

So I have the Hazet socket with MB part number. Got it for a good deal off of CL. So I shouldnt have an issue with the socket. As for the popping, I have a 1/2 drive breaker bar, so I should put it on and then just kind of slam it again and again to remove? Would it be smart to do it with a rubber or iron mallet or something? How about an impact gun running slow??

funola · #8 06-07-2010, 08:01 AM

I always break loose a thread big or small with a short impact action rather than a constant force.. Yank on the tool with a quick sharp pull (or push) for a defined distance rather than leaning your whole weight on it and landing on your butt (or forehead) when it breaks loose.

I seldom get cuts or bruises wrenching.

The idea is to keep the socket straight in respect to the injector at all times. An impact gun will do that, as will a T bar. A breaker bar (half a T bar) will not, but you can alleviate the situation and keep the socket straight by supporting the socket with one hand while popping the breaker bar with the other. To be extra cautious, you can leave a short section of hose on the return nipples.