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#1
07-06-2010, 10:07 PM
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Hard brake lines: OK to use good used ones?
It looked like I was about to finally end the most epic simple brake job of all-time, and sure enough, one of the brake lines snapped in the rear when I went to replace the hose. The steel lines look plain wretched back there and need to be replaced; the front ones look fantastic. I do have some rear brake lines from a parts car that look quite good, that have been sitting in my shed. Any reason not to trust used hard brake lines that look perfect, assuming they are thoroughly flushed?
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car) 
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#2
07-06-2010, 10:11 PM
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brake lines
would not hesitate to use them
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#3
07-06-2010, 10:11 PM
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none that I can think of.
use away! hmmmm. how long was the parts car sitting? any chance the calipers are full of water? if so, the rear lines could be corroded from the inside. make a note of the fluid that comes out of them.
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#4
07-06-2010, 10:36 PM
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Thanks guys. The parts car was sitting for a while as it was being parted out, but in a garage. Since then they have been in my parents' shed, which is dirty, but dry. I will definitely run some fluid through them and see what comes out. Unfortunately I'm not sure I have all the ones I need, but I have the long one that goes up to the front and that's a good start.
 Bending that one would have been less than fun.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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#6
07-06-2010, 11:08 PM
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Logical: The Brake Tubing that is on most peoples cars is also used; so re-using used Brake Tubing that is still in good condition has to be OK.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#8
07-06-2010, 11:46 PM
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IMHO using good used lines is a good way to go because the flares are correct, and the shape of the bends is correct. Those two things can be tricky to replicate after the fact with straight tube.
-Jason
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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket  Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states! Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels. 2014 Cadillac ELR 2013 Fiat 500E.
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#9
07-07-2010, 12:03 AM
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Quote:
And jeez guys, sorry if my logic isn't perfect ... I just like to be extra sure when it come to parts my life depends on. Sometimes people with more experience than I have think of things I wouldn't have thought of ... so it seems worth asking. 
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles 1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles 2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles 1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles 1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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#10
07-07-2010, 01:29 AM
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I have yet to use it yet but I have a Bubble Flaring kit that is supposed to make the proper Flares.
So it is possible to make up your own new Brake lines or cut some Generice metric Brake Line down to size and flare it.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel
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#11
07-07-2010, 05:55 AM
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In my experience--And this is based on UK weather conditions, with moist air for many months of the year, Steel brake-lines can also corrode From The Inside..
Brake-fluid can absorb moisture from the air, this can cause corrosion inside a pipe that otherwise appears perfect... Personally, and based on my experiences, I would replace with Cupro-Nickel pipes,-- nipples and unions are cheap and a flaring tool isnt expensive.... --I wouldnt hesitate--just renew them, job done... Forming Cupro-Nickel into shape is much easier than steel pipe and a great job can easily be done in the same time-frame as removing a good pipe off a donor and re-fitting to the recipient.... --Best part, it'll Never corrode from either inside Or outside, ever again! Good brakes can mean the difference between life and death.... 
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.  W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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#12
07-07-2010, 07:20 AM
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Bodhi,
Before you put fluid through the line, I would give it a good purge with an air hose. If water & rust come out, trash it. I think all of us want the best outcomes from your work!! Good Luck !!
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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....  1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket. 1980 300D now parts car 800k miles 1984 300D 500k miles  1987 250td 160k miles English import  2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles  1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo. 1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion. Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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#13
07-07-2010, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
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83 300D 227,xxx miles, sold 86 300 SDL 130,000 miles, sold
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#14
07-07-2010, 10:18 AM
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Purging with air is a good idea, like let it blow into a white towel, makes seeing trouble easier. As said Brake fluid is hydroscopic.
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87' 300D, Currently undergoing an OM606 swap/build! SUPERTURBO!!!03' 2500HD Dmax + goodies! 82' 300SD, parting out! 93' 300TE 4matic, parting out! 83' 240D Project Cheap Drive 89' 300E, parting out! 74' Datsun 510 wagon  88' RX7 10thAE, 13B track car build soon Skippy~ As for perception: Drive what you like and can afford. Those who don't like it can supply vacuum to one of your components. LOL If you need parts, I have some!
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#15
07-07-2010, 12:02 PM
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You'll larf at this--
But my flaring tool was a freebie with one of those 'Popular Mechanics' monthly magazines.... (It was either completely free, or just a pittance at the time, can't remember....) Had it gotta be 20 odd years, and done many a complete car and loads of individual pipes with it... The secret is, use a good quality Cupro-Nickel pipe, which is more malliable than the steel stuff, and forms better nipples and flares on the pipes IME--Its less strain on the tool and your wrist! --Its a pity that auto-makers dont use cupro-nickel, but at three times the cost of steel, guess you can see why!
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http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z...0TDnoplate.jpg Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K, -Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog. W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow, -Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....
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1981 300SD 512k OM603 
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